- 




Pyramidal Pear-tree regrafted (see p. 220) 



7. 



THE 



ART OF GRAFTING 



BY CHARLES BALTET. 



"You see, sweet maid, vre marry 
A gentle scion to the "wildest stock; 
And make conceive a bark of baser kind 
By bud of nobler race ; this is an art 
"VvTiich does mend nature ; change it rather • but 
The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare. 






ILLUSTRATED. 



LONDON: 
MACMILLAN AND CO. 
1879. 



6 



CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS, 
CRVSTAL PALACE PRESS. 

ay trtbosler fro., 
rat. omoe Lit"*. 



PREFACE 



The art of Grafting and Budding has for many years been 
practised in France on such an extensive scale, and with such 
remarkable success, that the gardeners of that country are 
now far in advance of all others in this branch of horticulture. 
The present work is a translation of M. Charles Baltet's 
" L'Art de Greffer," and embodies all that is known on the 
subject, so that the reader will find in its pages the fullest 
information on every point which relates to these operations. 
Every method of Grafting and Budding is described at 
length, with numerous illustrations, and an enumeration 
of the trees, shrubs, &c, to which each mode of operation 
is best applied. The book concludes « with a practical 
application of the previous instructions to about a hundred 
various kinds of trees and shrubs, which are then more par- 
ticularly mentioned, with the season and mode of grafting 
proper in each case, special observations being added when 
necessary. M. Baltet is well known in the horticultural 
world as one of the most experienced fruit-growers on the 
Continent, and his " L'Art de Greffer," or " The Art of 
Grafting and Budding " is the most complete manual of these 
operations that has yet appeared in any language. 



THE ART 

OF 

GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



"You see, sweet maid, we marry 
A gentle scion to the wildest stock ; 
And make conceive a "bark of baser kind 
By bud of nobler race ; this is an art 
Which does mend nature : change it rather : but 
The art itself is nature."— Shakespeaeb. 



DEFINITION AND AIM OF GRAFTING, 

Geapting is an operation which, consists in uniting a plant, 
or a portion of a plant, to another which will support it, and 
furnish it with a part of the nutriment necessary for its 
growth. The plant which receives the graft should be 
furnished with roots ; it is destined to draw nutriment from 
the soil, and transmit it to the part grafted. It is called the 
stock. We shall mention a few exceptions where the stock is 
a simple cutting without roots ; but it is planted in such a 
manner as to be soon furnished with them. The other plant, 
Or portion of plant, which is grafted on the stock, should have 
at least one shoot or eye, and be in good condition— that is, 
neither withered, nor mouldy, nor decayed, nor wet. It is 
called the graft or scion ; it is analagous to a cutting in 
communication with the soil, and continues its normal growth 
through the intervention of the stock. Notwithstanding the 
intimate union of the stock and the graft, they preserve their 



2 



THE ART OF 



individual character and constitution distinct : their layers cf 
wood and bark continue to be developed without the fibres 
and vessels of one converging with those of the other. It is, 
as it were, a federative union which leaves to the interested 
parties their independence. Not unfrequently the union of 
the grafted pieces suffers a clean severance at the point of 
contact, either in consequence of the weight of the branches, 
the violence of the wind, or some other casualty. However, 
the parts thus broken may be used again, either as stocks or 
grafts, just as before. Almost all dicotyledonous plants may 
be grafted. Up to the present the monocotyledonous plants 
have been tried without success. Their structure does not 
present the least capacity for the adhesion of the parts when 
put together; and without this intimate union, grafting is 
impossible. 

OBJECT OF GRAFTING. 

The object of grafting is — 1st. To change the character of a 
plant, by modifying the wood, the foliage, or the fruit which it 
was required to produce. 2nd. To excite the development of 
branches, flowers, or fruit on the parts of a tree where they 
are deficient. 3rd. To restore a defective or exhausted tree 
by the transfusion of the fresh sap of a vigorous kind. 4th. 
To bring together on the same stem the two sexes of 
monoecious plants, in order to facilitate their reproduction. 
5th. To preserve and propagate a great number of woody or 
herbaceous plants for use or ornament, which could not be 
reproduced by any other means of multiplication. Without 
grafting, our orchards would not contain such rich collections 
of fruits for all seasons ; our forests would be without a large 
number of important kinds of trees ; and we should not 
experience the pleasure of seeing in our parks such a brilliant 
array of native and exotic shrubs. There remains one more 
observation to be made in favour of grafting, that is, that the 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



3 



plant, or rather fragment of plant, grafted on another preserves 
Its original qualities and characteristic properties. It will 
produce branches close or spreading, leaves purple or silvery, 
flowers white or rose-coloured, fruit large or small, early or 
late, exactly resembling the variety from which it was taken, 
and without being influenced by the neighbourhood of, or 
contact with, several similar kinds grouped on the same stock. 
"We could also quote instances of plants which, when grafted, 
grow more vigorously than when on their own roots. When 
it is considered that grafting is easy to be practised, that it 
involves only a trifling degree of bodily exertion, and developes 
a love for gardening, it will be allowed that it is both a useful 
.and an agreeable operation. 

CONDITIONS OF SUCCESS. 

In grafting, a great deal of the success depends on the skill 
of the operator. The other conditions essential to success are 
affinity between the species, vigour of the stock and graft, the 
condition of their sap, their intimate union, the season, and 
temperature. 

Affinity hehveen Species. 
The laws of the affinities of species are almost unknown. 
The observations hitherto made have been undertaken in a 
practical rather than a purely scientific spirit, as in the 
fertilizing of plants. The results obtained up to the present 
can only be regarded as a matter of fact. jSTo theory has as 
yet been deduced from them, except that kinds to be unite/ 
by grafting must be of the same botanic family. 

For instance, the peach and the apricot are grafted on each 
I other with difficulty, while both do well on the almond-tree 
and the plum-tree. All the cherries unite with the Mahaleb ; 
but it will not succeed as a graft on any of the cherries. The 
sweet chestnut prospers on the oak; but will not do so if 

B 2, 



^ THE AUT OF 

grafted on the horse-chestnut, which belongs to another 
family. The medlar and the qnince, which have solitary 
flowers, flourish on the hawthorn, whose flowers are in 
corymbs. The Chionanthus, so nearly allied to the lilac by 
its panic-led flowers and simple leaves, only succeeds well on 
the common ash and on the flowering ash, which have 
compound leaves. On the other hand, the Sorbus, with 
pinnate leaves, is more vigorous when grafted on the thorn, 
(whose leaves are more entire) than it is when grown on its 
own roots. 

The grafting of evergreen trees on deciduous kinds presents 
more than one singularity. 

The Photinia, allied to the beam-tree, and the Eriobotrya, 
allied to the medlar, are grafted on the medlar, and not on the 
hawthorn. On the last, as a stock, the Cotoneaster and the 
Pyracantha do well. The Mahonia flourishes on the Berberis, 
and the common laurel succeeds on the bird- cherry and even 
on the wild cherry, from which it differs so much in appearance. 

The grafting of deciduous plants on those that are ever- 
green has, in almost every case, been attempted in vain. 
Those who are fond of oddities can, with the assistance of 
grafting, have on the same thorn stock at the same time 
fruiting branches of the pear, the medlar, the beam-tree, the 
service-tree, the mountain-ash, the European and Japanese 
quince, and also see there the flowers of the double and red 
thorns, the Cotoneaster, and the Pyracantha. 

They may gather from the same plum stock plums, apricots, 
peaches, nectarines, almonds, the corymbs of the Canadian 
cherry, and flower garlands of the Chinese and Japanese plum. 
But these whimsicalities are unworthy the attention of culti- 
vators. 

Whoever wishes to study grafting in the works of celebrated 
ancient authors on horticulture will find a string of absurdities., 



GRAFTING AND BTJDDD7G. 



5 



some of which we shall mention. Virgil speaks of a plum- 
tree which bore apples after having been grafted, and recom- 
mends the grafting of the pear on the ash. Martial advises 
the grafting of the cherry on the poplar. Columella, whose 
works are equally trustworthy, would have the olive grown on 
the fig. Palladius speaks of the walnut being grafted on the 
Arbutus, the pear on the almond, and the citron of his native 
island of Sardinia on the mulberry-tree. Pliny considers 
thunder injurious to trees grafted on the white-thorn. 

Madame de Genlis, it is said, grafted the rose on the holly or 
the black currant, in order to obtain green or black roses ; and 
the Abbe Eozier recognised the possibility of it. Others 
united, in their imagination, the apple to the briar, hoping to 
gather therefrom Calvilles ; the orange to the holly, in order to 
acclimatize the former in open woods ; the vine to the walnut- 
tree, so as to have grapes full of oil. They are merely so 
many hallucinations, like the story of a cornel grafted on a 
peach-tree in a garden at Troyes, published by M. de Caylus 
in his " History of the Conjunction of Plants." The ancients 
are not the only persons guilty of falsification in the matter of 
grafting. There have been many instances of it in our own 
time, and we shall long continue to hear of black roses being 
produced from a black currant stock, &c. 

Mutual Vigour of the Parts. 
It will always be better to unite by grafting only such 
subjects as have between them some analogy in point of vigour, 
time of commencing to vegetate, and hardiness. If any differ- 
ence should exist, it would be preferable that the graft should 
be of later vegetation than the stock, and also more vigorous 
and hardy. Tender varieties suit well with a stock of moderate 
vigour ; but on a weakly stock they produce a worthless tree. 
When grafted on too vigorous a stock, it is difficult for them 
to absorb all the sap furnished by the roots ; an evenness of 



6 



THE AET 0? 



growth cannot be established between the stock and the graft. 
Then follow weakness and disease — disagreeable results. The 
reverse of this, to have the graft more vigorous than the stock, 
is more admissible. The pear-tree on the quince, the apple on 
the paradise, the cherry on the Mahaleb, give us proofs of this. 
The tree will be less vigorous than if perfect harmony existed 
between the two parts, and, its growth being thus tempered, 
it tends more to the production of fruit. Very great differ- 
ences in the matter of vigour may be lessened by means of 
double grafting, in which we first graft on the stock a variety 
of intermediate vigour, and on this, later on, we graft the 
variety which we desire to propagate. The stock should 
always be strong enough to receive the graft. If it is weakly, 
although the graft will unite with it, the future tree will 
always be tender. Stocks that have been planted a year at 
least should employed. The number of the grafts on each 
stock should be in proportion to its vigour, so as to obtain the 
favourable results which will follow from the exact adjustment 
of the powers of vegetation. Sometimes grafting is success- 
fully performed, during the repose of the sap, on stocks taken 
up out of the soil, which are replanted immediately after 
grafting. The graft-, on its part, should come from a pure 
source. The tree which furnishes it should be healthy, if it is 
desired to transmit health and hardiness. In the raising of 
plants, it is easier to prevent than to cure disease. The 
degeneration — more apparent than real — of species and varie- 
ties is especially due to the selection of bad subjects for 
propagation. The parent plant or tree which furnishes the 
scions should always be of a strong healthy constitution. 
Intimate Union of the two Parts. 
In every kind of grafting it is indispensable that the two- 
parts grafted should be in close communication, not by means 
of the epidermis or the pith, but through the generating layers 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



7 



— that is, tlie new and living layers of inner bark or alburnum, 
in the tissne of which the cambium flows. A perfect joining 
is not effected except on this condition. A multiplicity of 
points of contact is favourable to a more complete nnion, which 
will also be assisted by a similarity of texture between the 
scion and the stock, especially as regards the herbaceous 
or woody nature of their tissues. Lastly, the speedy cohe- 
sion of the parts depends on the skill of the operator, who 
should know how to avoid wounds, or to cicatrise them, and to 
J preserve them from the action of the atmosphere. 

Season for Grafting. 
On principle, grafting should be performed while the sap 
is in motion. When it is done in spring or in autumn, the 
time should be chosen when the sap has begun to flow, or 
before it has ceased to do so. In summer it is best to avoid 
the period of its greatest activity. In all kinds of grafting, 
the condition of the sap should be nearly similar in both scion 
and stock ; when it is not so, it is much better to have the 
scion in a less advanced stage than the stock. The season of 
grafting in the open air is from the month of March till 
September, that is, generally speaking; in warm countries 
vegetation com m ences a month sooner. Certain plants also 
preserve the flow of the sap up to October arid November, 
which permits a delay in grafting them until that time. The 
time most suitable for the different methods of grafting will 
be indicated further on when we come to describe each 

; method. The tradition which ascribes greater vigour to 
grafts made at the time of new moon, and greater productive- 
ness to those made at the end of the last quarter, we consider 

! simply ridiculous. A calm atmosphere, and warm rather than 
rainy or cold, is both agreeable to the operator and conducive 
to the success of the operation. Heat, within certain limits, 
stimulates the nutritious fluid ; while cold, on the contrary, chills 



8 



THE AUT OP 



and benumbs it. During the frosts of winter, grafting cannot 
be carried on except in the shelter of the propagating-house, 
where artificial heat and the other arrangements of the horti- 
culturist will bring on vegetation to the desired extent at all 
seasons. Grafting under glass, either in houses or frames or 
under the cloche, is constantly practised from January to 
March, and from July to September. 

IMPLEMENTS AND APPLIANCES FOR GRAFTING. 

Simple, handy tools, with well-steeled blades, and kept in 
good condition, are preferable to complicated implements with 
several blades, or bristling with salient or cutting points, 
which may wound both the tree and the operator. The tool 
with a fixed blade is more firm in the handle, but one with a 




The Secateur. 



closing blade is more easily carried in the pocket, the apron, 
the tool-case, or the basket. 

The Secateur. 

This is an implement formed with two arms of steel or 
iron, one of which terminates in a cutting blade, the other in a 
blunt bevelled crescent, against which the branch to be cut 
rests. The handles being wide and roughened on the back are, 
in consequence, easier to hold and less fatiguing to the hands. 
The secateur is used for the following purposes : — 



GRAPTIXG AND BUDDING. 



9 



1. For cutting off the heads of stocks which are too thick for 

the pruning-knife, and not thick enough to require the 
saw, in those modes of grafting which demand a pre- 
liminary shortening of the stock. 

2. For cutting off scions from the parent tree. 

3. After grafting, for cutting, above the scion, any stocks 

that have not been previously shortened, with the object 
of stimulating the development of the graft. 

4. For cutting off the heels of grafts made on the branches 

of the stock after a year's growth. 

5. For severing from the parent-tree scions grafted by 

approach. 

6. For pruning spine -bearing plants and trees. 

In general, the wounds occasioned by the secateur require 
to be dressed with the pruning-knife. 

The Savj. 

Hand-saws, with either a fixed or closing blade, are used for 




The Saw. 



cutting strong branches and thick stocks for crown -grafting 
with a tall or a short stem, and for cutting off the heels of 
grafts made on the branches of the stock when they are dry 
or too thick for the pruning-knife or the secateur. TVhen a 
strong branch is to be sawn, the heavy branchlets above the 
place of incision should first be removed j this will render it 



10 



THE APvT 0? 



easier to work the saw, and the bark of the trunk will not be 
so likely to be injured. Moreover, the operator slackens the 
movement of his arm when the branch is nearly sawn through ; 
it is often even prudent to cease sawing altogether then, and 
finish the amputation with the pruning-knife, holding with 
the other hand the part which is being cut off. Cutlers 
manufacture saws with a single or a double row of teeth, and 
with the back of the blade (A) thinner than the toothed part 
(B). Grafters use excellent saws made of scythe blades, with 
one row of teeth, and set in the handle at an angle. The saw 
should never be used on a living tree without dressing and 
smoothing its marks with the pruning-knife, otherwise the 
furrows left by the saw will retain moisture on the surface of 
the wound and retard its healing. 

The Pruning -Knife. 
The pruning-knife consists of a handle of wood or horn. 



French Pruning-Knife {Serpette)* 

either straight or slightly curved, and a blade curved at the 
end. The point of the blade is more or less prominent. The 
workman becomes so accustomed to a particular shape that he 
often prefers an old, almost worn-out, knife to a new one of 
more even form. The pruning-knife is necessary for dressing 
the wounds caused by the saw or the secateur, for trimming 
bruised or torn tissues, and for smoothing down a cut, so that 
it may present a level surface, without inequalities, bruises, or 
splinters. In order to smooth properly, the hand which holds 
the handle of the tool should have the thumb supported 



GHAFTING A3sD BUDDING. 



11 



against the branch or stem, while the other hand directs the 
blade. In the case of a stock of moderate thickness, the 
shortening of the stem is effected by means of the praning- 
knife, withont having recourse to the saw. The prunhig-knife 




----- -7 3 /8. — -a 



English Pruning-Knif e (straight-bla&ed form) . 

is also employed for cutting up the scions into suitable lengths. 
If it is preferred to employ a pruning-knife, in cutting and 
dressing them finally it will be advisable to have in reserve 
another finer-edged one, and keep the first for heading down, 
cutting off old stems, and such rough work. Grafters who 

, use the pruning-knife for every operation of grafting should 
choose a blade not much curved, which will be found very 

, handy when it is required to split the stock. The pruning- 
knife is also used, after grafting, in shortening those stocks 

| which have not been previously cut, and also for removing the 
heel of the graft after a year's growth. The handle is held 
with both hands, and thus the heel is cut off with greater ease. 

i This implement is also useful in trimming thorny trees. 

The Budding -Knife. 
I The budding-knife is a tool with a narrow blade, widening 




French Bndding-Knife (Greffbir). 

towards the end, and with the point curving backwards. At 
the end of the handle is a spatula, or small thin blade of 
ivory, which is used for raising the bark. This spatula should 



12 



THE ART Qf 



not be made ot metal, as that would soon be rusted by the 
sap. The budding knife is indispensable for bud-grafting, for 
cutting the scions in branch-grafting, for raising the bark, for 




s y/s.^n: 

English Budding-Knife. 



grafting under glass, or cutting ligatures when too tight for 
the graft, &c. 

The Grafting -Knife. 
The handle of this implement is slightly curved, in order to 
facilitate grafting near the surface of the ground ; the blade, in 
form of a comma or drop, is useful for splitting stocks 
intended for cleft -grafting when a partial cleft is required. A 
cleft from side to side is obtained by means of a knife with a 




Grafting-Knife. 



straight blade, like a table-knife in shape. The handle and 
back of such a knife should be strong enough to support the 
blows of the mallet, which the operator is sometimes obliged 
to use in cleaving very thick or hard-wooded stocks. 

The Grafting-Chisel 
The grafting-chisel has the blade and the handle all in one 
piece, iron and steel. It has every advantage of solidity and 
resistance when it is required to cleave strong stems, either 
with or without the help of the mallet. When the cleft is 
made, we can, by half withdrawing the chisel, use it as a lever 
or wedge to keep the cleft partially open, and facilitate the 



GRAFTING AXD BUDDING. 



13 



introduction of the graft. The chisel used by the vine 




Grafting- Chisel and Mallet. 

length. The blade is about two and three-quarter inches 
long. 

Tli e Grafting - Gouge. 
The grafting-gouge here represented comprises a handle 
about four inches long, and an iron stem nearly eight inches 
in length, the upper part of which for about two inches is 
curved inwards, and terminates in a curved gouge, with which 




Grafting- Gouge. 



the groove to receive the graft is cut. This implement, which 
is recommended by M. Eose-Charmeux, of Thomery, is useful 
in grafting by approach. 

Combined Grafter. 
M. Auguste Eiviere, head gardener at the Luxembourg, 
Paris, is the inventor of this implement, the special use 



14 THE ART 0F 

of which is in grafting by inlaying, which will be alluded 
to further on. The blade has a double purpose: the gouge 
(B) at the upper end is angular, so as to produce in the 
stock a wedge-shaped incision. At the bottom of the blade is 
a similar angular gouge (C), with which the scion is cut into a 
triangular wedge, which will fit perfectly into the incision made 




Combined Grafter. 

in the stock, as the two gouges (B and 0) are made with the 
same angle. That at C may be turned the other way, so as to 
suit a left-handed workman. Between these two parts, the 
blade is sharp-edged at A, and serves for cutting the scion from 
its parent-tree, or for smoothing the angles, if they have been 
imperfectly cut by the gouge at C. 

The Metro-Greffe. 
This tool is composed of a double spatula, which is 
fitted into the handle of an ordinary grafting-knife. Its 



B 




A 
The Metro-Greffe. 



use is to measure the scion and stock, so as to make them 
fit exactly in those modes of grafting in which the two parts 
are placed in juxtaposition by simple veneering. The handle 
(D) bears at one end the blade of the grafting-knife which cuts 
the scion ; and at the other end the double spatula, the two 



GBAPTING AttD BUDDING. 



15 



parts of which. (A. and B) are joined by a screw (C). The 
metro -greffe answers the purpose of a pair of compasses for 
measuring the back at the bevel of the graft, and then tracing 
on the stock a corresponding width for the groove which is to 
receive it. 

All these tools are not indispensable in the practice oi 
grafting ; but they have each a special nse. The last three are 
intended to facilitate nice and complicated operations in 
grafting. 

KEEPING THE TOOLS. 

They should always be in a serviceable and clean condition. 
In the course of repeated operations, especially when the sap is 
flowing freely, it thickens and accumulates on the blade of the 
tool. It should be constantly removed by the application of water 
or moist earth. The dirt interferes with the proper manage- 
ment of the tool, and injiu'es the internal layers of the bark 
and wood which come into contact with the blade. Frequent 
sharpening of the cutting implements should not be 
neglected, as wounds heal much more readily when the cuts 
are clean. When the tool gets blunt, it should be ground 
down on a grindstone, and afterwards rubbed on a finer stone, 
to remove the wire-edge. In long-continued operations the 
tool should be rubbed on the fine stone frequently during the 
day. The Turkey, or any other fine-grained stone, is the best- 
for sharpening pruning-knives. The slate-stone is suitable for 
the grafting -knife and the secateur. . There is also the fine 
stone used for razors and penknives ; on this, with a drop or 
two of oil, fine blades for delicate operations are sharpened. 
In nurseries, after passing the tools over the stone, they are 
stropped on the leather of the boot or shoe, or on the palm o^ 
the hand. The mode of sharpening depends on the skill or 
the practice of the operator. The object should be to sharpen 
the cutting parts without weakening them; otherwise, in 



16 



THE ART OP 



rough, work, the edge will soon become blunt, and is easily 
notched. The saw is sharpened with a file made for the 
purpose. Delicate tools, and even the secateur, should be 
sent to the cutler. 

Ligatures. 

Almost all the modes of grafting require a ligature to fasten 
up separated tissues or raised bark, to tie clefts together, and 
to keep the graft firmly on the stock. If any considerable 
interval should be allowed to occur between the insertion of 
the scion and the application of the ligature, [the action of 
the atmosphere would not fail to have an injurious effect on 
the graft. The best ligatures are those which can neither 
expand nor contract under hygrometric influences, and which 
possess a certain amount of elasticity permitting them to 
accommodate themselves to the increasing diameter of the stock 
without cramping it. The thicker the stock is, the firmer 
should the ligature be ; for in this case the healing of the 
wound is naturally more tedious, and everything should be 
done to accelerate it. In cases of grafting where the bark 
only has been raised, it is sufficient to bring the cortical layers 
together, and to tie up the graft without compressing it. The 
ligature is applied with both hands. It is rolled in a spiral 
manner around the grafted part, drawing it tight at every turn, 
especially at the beginning and the end, where it is most liable 
to become loose. It does not matter whether the turns are 
made very close to each other or not ; the essential point is 
that the ligature should keep the graft firm. Should it yield 
on passing the finger over it, it is not sufficiently tight, and 
must be done over again. Woollen thread combines all the 
qualities to be wished for in a good ligature ; it adapts itself to 
the growth of the tree, and is not affected by moisture, as it has 
been passed through oil in its manufacture. It is very 
much used in bud-grafting on small branches and medium- 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 17 

sized fruit trees and shrubs, conifers, and rose-trees, or small 
stocks grafted in the open air or under glass. Two or three 
threads of it are put together (without twisting them) in 
lengths proportioned to the thickness of the stocks and the 
depth of the clefts to be covered. For large stocks this thread 
would not be sufficiently strong. Cotton-thread is not affected 
by hygrometric changes, but it does not possess the elasticity 
of the woollen material. "We recommend it for bud-grafting 
on strong stems, or such as are of slow increase in bulk, and 
also for grafts under glass. In applying it as a ligature, it is 
j best to fasten it with a knot so that it can be easily untied, 
when it becomes too tight, as cotton is difficult to cut across, 
and the same ligature can then be used another season. 
The expense of purchasing cotton and woollen materials for 
ligatures in nurseries has led to an inquiry for cheaper 
substitutes. After trying various species of cares and 
bulrushes, two aquatic plants were found which supply an 
excellent material for ligatures. These are the reed-mace (Typha 
latifolia) and the bur-reed (Sparganium ramo sum), both of which 
grow in abundance on the banks of rivers and ditches, in ponds 
and marshes, and belong to the natural family of TyphaceaB. 
The plants are gathered when full-grown, either about the 
end of summer for the following season's use, or in spring to 
be used the same year. The leaves, which are thickly crowded 
at the base, are separated, and put to dry in the shade or in a 
loft, where they are hung up in bundles formed by tying the 
ends together. "When the time for using them arrives, they are 
cut into the lengths required, usually from one foot to twenty 
inches. A short time before grafting, these ligatures, tied in a 
bundle, are plunged into water, where they are left for a few 
hours ; they are then taken out and wrung dry in the same way 
that linen is wrung. Yery often they are merely put into a 
cellar to keep them cool and moist, and in places where water 

C 



13 



THE ART OF 



cannot be conveniently employed, they are placed under the soil 
with the same object. This kind of ligature requires a proper 
medium of dryness and moisture. If too dry, the leaf of the 
reed-mace or of the bur -reed will not have sufficient resisting 
power, and will break ; if too moist, it will cause the graft to 
rot, in addition to being just as brittle as in the other case. 




Eoed-^Iace. Bur-Reed. 



The leaf is generally broad enough to be divided lengthways, 
and fastens better when it is put on edgeways, and not laid 
flat, and when it is slightly twisted in winding it round the 
graft. "With the exception of those modes of grafting which 
require the woody tissues of the stock to be cleft, and for 
which the leaf of the reed-mace or the bur-reed is not 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



19 



sufficiently tough, we recommend this ligature for the 
greater number of grafting processes. The soft leaves of the 
common flag (Iris Pseud-acorns), which clo not cut like the 
leaves of the cares, Trill furnish a pliant and firm ligature, but 
not so strong as the preceding. The bark of the lime-tree, as 
it is prepared for the manufacture of well ropes, furnishes a 
good ligature for cleft -grafting or crown-grafting, or grafting 
by approach, and in all cases where it is necessary to oppose a 
certain amount of resistance to large stocks or broken tissues. 
Dipped in water, then dried and divided, this kind of ligature 
possesses a suitable amount of elasticity, and does not tighten 
on the stock, as pack-thread or hamper -twine would. Packiug- 
mats, which come as coverings of colonial imports, offer the 
same advantages, and the ligatures which they furnish will not 
injure the tender bark of the young wood in various kinds of 
grafts. Pack-thread, single or doubled, and old twine unravelled 
are very often used, because they are easily procured. They 
should, however, not be twisted, and must be carefully looked 
niter when the graft begins to swell. Split osiers are hardly 
ever used except at country places, where anything better is 
not always to be had. They may be employed as ligatures, 
for old trees, whose diameter does not increase so rapidly as to 
cause injury in any form to result from over-tight compression. 
I The bark of the elm and the willow, dried and afterwards 
1 moistened, are neither better nor worse than the split osiers, 
Their defect is that they contract too speedily, unless they 
have been prepared a year before-hand. The office of the 
ligature is a temporary one ; it ceases when the union of the 
parts is sufficiently advanced for the development of the graft. 
We shall see further on, when we come to discuss the subject 
more at length, what additional attention is required by the 
ligature, and at what time it is considered to be proper to 
1 dispense with it. 



20 



THE ART OP 



Grafting -Wax. 

In grafting, it is necessary to cover the wounds and cuts 
with an unctuous composition, which will not have the defect 
of drying-up or burning the wound, nor of running or cracking 
under the action of the air or from being badly made. This 
must be applied copiously and without stint to the wounds and 
clefts of both stock and scion when the graft is fixed in 
position. A well executed graft may fail in consequence of 
the bad quality of the wax. Those modes of grafting in which 
no cut surface is exposed to the air, bud-grafting for instance, 
do not require any application of this kind. In spite of 
numerous new inventions, good compositions are still few, but 
those which we possess are sufficient. 

Grafting-Clay, or Onguent de Saint-Fiacre of the French. 

This primitive composition consists of two parts of clay and 
one part of cow-dung. It is held on the graft by means of pack- 
thread or a piece of rag, and presents the form of an oblong 
ball. Some persons put a strip of bark between the cut and 
the composition, to prevent the latter from penetrating into 
the clefts. Others mix finely-chopped hay or grass with it, to 
give it more consistency. Two thousand years ago, authors 
recommended the covering of the " kneaded luting and glue 
of the graft " either with a borage leaf or with moss. Grafting- 
clay is much used in many country places, and is an economi- 
cal composition, especially for the grafting of all sorts of old 
trees. 

Warm Mastic. 

For a long time, nurserymen have manufactured their own 
mastic. The composition of it varies ; the base being usually 
Burgundy pitch, black pitch, bees -wax, suet, and resin. To 
these ingredients some add ochre, hog's lard, flowers of 
sulphur, Yenice turpentine, or sifted cinders. All are melted 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING-. 



21 



together over the fire in an iron pot, and the composition 
should be allowed to cool before it is nsed. Practice makes it 
easy to jndge of the proper proportions of the ingredients ; 
the pitch tends to thicken the composition, the snet to make 
it lighter, the resin imparts dryness to it, and the bees-wax 
gives it oiliness. The following mixture is in high repute at 
the establishments of MM. Andre Leroy, of Angers, and 
Baltet Freres, of Troyes : — First, melt together, resin 21bs. 12 
ounces, Burgundy pitch 1 lb. 11 ounces ; at the same time melt 
separately, suet 9 ounces. Pour the suet, when thoroughly 
melted, into the first mixture, stirring it well while doing so. 
Then add 18 ounces of red ochre, dropping it in gradually in 
small portions, and stirring the whole up for a good while. 
Whatever composition may be used, it should always be 
unctuous, easily worked, and free from acridity, and is best 
applied lukewarm, rather cool than hot, and when of a con- 
sistency approaching the liquid rather than the solid. It is 
brought into this condition with the help of a small portable 
stove, heated like a warm bath, or with a spirit-lamp, or by 
any of the common methods. It is applied with a small paint- 
brush, or a stick with a rag wrapped round the end, or, better 
still, with a wooden spatula. The warm mastic is an economical 
kind for large operations, and is preferable to the cold mastic 
for autumn grafting, as the frost has been found to have less 
effect upon it. 

Cold Mastic. 

The inconveniences that always attend the use of warm 
compositions, and the trouble of making them, have brought 
very much into fashion cold mastics, which soften under 
the heat of the hands, or remain unctuous from the nature 
of their composition. Up to the present time, no cold mastic 
can compete with that of M. Lhomme-Lefort, manufactured 
by his son at Belleville, Paris. This mastic is sold in tin boxes, 



22 



THE ART OP 



in which it preserves its pliability, even after the box is opened. 
It is spread on the graft with a spatula, and should it be 
necessary to touch it with the fingers, these should first be 
wetted. Once exposed to the air, it hardens a little. It does 
not crack with frost nor run in hot weather, and is the best 
composition that can be used. "We have seen in Germany a 
cold composition invented by M. Lucas, pomologist. This is 
made of Burgundy pitch melted over a slow fire. Into this is 
poured the third of its weight of alcohol of 90°, stirring the 
mixture constantly with a stick. The only drawback with cold 
mastics is that they do not harden sufficiently in winter when 
they are applied in autumn; then the frost, having an advantage 
over a soft substance, can reach the tissues of the tree thus 
insufficiently protected. 

Accessories. 

Grafting under glass requires certain accessories, such as 
pots, composts, mats, screens, canvas, coverings, &c, although 
the stocks grafted are intended for future culture in the open 
air. When the young grafts begin to vegetate, stakes, osiers, 
and rushes are indispensable auxiliaries. The stakes are 
made of small branches or twigs of resinous trees, or of willow, 
poplar, chestnut, &c, cut in different lengths. These are 
more manageable than stakes made of split wood. They will 
last for a long time if plunged, when fresh cut and prepared, 
into a bath of dissolved sulphate of copper (bluest one), made 
in the proportion of about one pound of the sulphate to four 
gallons of water. Saplings more or less branched will answer 
for staking young grafts on strong, well-grown stocks. These 
should be treated with sulphate of copper like the others. 
The solution may also be applied with advantage to mats, 
canvas, hot-bed frames, &c, as anything so treated will be 
secured from the attacks of insects, snails, or other vermin. 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



23 



Osiers (Salix purpurea or S. vitellina) are cut in winter 
from pollards. They are used, either fresh or dried, for 
fastening stocks or branches to the stakes. They are sorted 
in sizes, tied in bundles, and put in a shady, dry place. They 
should be soaked in water for at least twenty-four hours 
before using. 

Eushes (Juncus diffhisus and J. glomeratus) are used for 
tying up young herbaceous scions to the stakes. When the 
.scion becomes woody, the rushes will not be sufficiently strong, 
and must be replaced by osier twigs, strips of lime bark or 
willow, bast mat, or the leaves of the reed-mace and bur- 
reed. Eushes are gathered in summer, dried moderately, and 
laid by in a loft. They require to be steeped in water for 
only a few hours before using. 

STOCKS AND SCIONS. 

Raising the Stocks. 
First stage. — The plants intended for stocks are obtained 
either from seed, layering, or grafting. A sucker does not answer 
so well, as the operation of grafting and its consequences have 
a tendency to excite it to produce suckers. 

Solving. 

Seeds should be sown as soon as they are ripe : — 1st, from 
April to June ; 2nd, from August to October. If it is not 
convenient to sow them immediately, they should be placed 
in a shallow vessel, in alternate layers of seed and sandy 
soil, and laid by in a cellar. When they begin to germinate, 
they may be sown in the open air. The soil of the seed-bed 
should be well pulverised and carefully cleaned. The seed 
may be sown either broadcast,, or in rows, or in holes. When 
it is small in size, or near germinating, or wheu the season 
-and the soil are cold, it should be but slightly covered. If sown 



24 



THE ART OP 



too thickly, the seedlings will be puny ; if too thinly, they Trill 
remain short and sprawling. The vigour of the plant and 
its ultimate destination should be taken into account. If 
the sowing has been too thick, it should be judiciously thinned 
out in summer. Earthing up, watering, weeding, destroying 
insects, and keeping off birds, are matters requiring some 
attention 

Layering. 

This is performed in spring, summer, or autumn, with 
woody or herbaceous branches not separated from the parent 
stem, around which a small trench is dug at a short distance. 
Into this the strong and healthy branches are pegged down, 
then bent abruptly, and the end turned up vertically, and cut 
off, so as to leave a couple of eyes above ground. The trench 
is then filled up with good soil. In multiple layering, a branch 
is laid down from the parent stem horizontally in a trench. 
This branch should form a number of young herbaceous 
branchlets about three or four inches long. Each of these 
will take root, and in autumn may be cut away as a separate 
plant. Kinds that are slow in sending out roots should have 
an incision made, either lengthways or across, immediately 
under an eye on the part that is put under the soil. Tender 
kinds and evergreens should be layered in pots. In all modes 
of layering, the layer should be separated from the parent 
plant as soon as it is well rooted. It is then taken up and 
planted permanently or in the nursery. 

Jlillock-Layering. 
This is used for the quince, the Paradise and Doucin apples, 
the plum, the fig, the hazel, &c. The stock is cut down level 
with the ground ; in summer, a small mound is raised about 
it, and the ends of the young shoots are pinched, which excites 
them to throw out a number of rootlets. In autumn the 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



25 



mound is cleared away, and the young stems which have 
taken root are separated from the stump, and planted out. If 
a shoot should he badly rooted, it should be earthed up again 
until the following year. Stumps may be thus layered every 
year, or every second year. 

Cuttings. 

Pieces of branches or of roots, when placed in the soil, take 
root, grow, and form new plants. These pieces, if of branches, 
should be from ten to sixteen inches long, and have one or 
more eyes. If of roots, they may be from two inches to six 
inches in length. Cuttings of branches are planted in spring 
or in autumn, and at this last season should be planted at 
once, as soon as they are prepared. If planted in spring, they 
should be prepared during the previous winter, when they 
should be cut, and buried vertically, upside down, in a trench 
deep enough to cover them completely. "When spring 
arrives, they are planted out in their natural position, and 
so as to have one or two eyes above ground. Kinds that are 
inclined to throw out underground shoots, like the Manetti 
stock, should have all the eyes removed from the part of the 
cuttings which is buried. A cutting with two eyes should 
be completely buried in the earth in a vertical position. This 
is a good plan for subjects of a tender kind, which do not bear 
frost well, as the vine and the fig. Instead of a shoot, a 
thick branch or a stem may, in some cases, be planted as 
a cutting, and will take root. The poplar and willow succeed 
in this way. Root cuttings consist of pieces of root from two 
inches to six inches long. They are planted in trenches in a 
shady place, in such a way that a very small portion of each 
cutting is exposed to the air. Short cuttings which have not 
more than a single bud are planted under glass in a cool 
place. Cuttings of evergreens succeed best in this way. 



THE AUT OP 



Transplanting. 

Transplanting consists in taking up young plants, and re- 
planting them in another place for a time, with the view of 
developing the fibrous root and strengthening the neck of the 
plant. It is chiefly practised with plants raised from seed, 
which are transplanted after the first year's growth. Seed- 
lings of resinous trees and evergreen shrubs should be trans- 
planted between the middle of August and the end of 
September, or between March and May. Seedlings of deci- 
duous trees should not be removed until the sap has gone to 
rest, and in their case only can the stems and roots be cut too 
long. Transplanting is done with a dibble, in rows of about 
eight inches apart, with a distance of four inches at least 
between the plants. After a couple of years, the plant will be 
sufficiently grown to be removed to the nursery or to a per- 
manent position. By planting it at once where it is intended 
to remain, we avoid both the cost and labour of a future 
transplanting and the delay, as well as the chance of failure. 
Careful nursery treatment is almost indispensable for very 
young subjects, which require continual attention in culture 
and pruning. 

The Nursery. 

This should be in a favourable position, well aired, well 
drained, and having good easily worked soil. Porous soils, 
which are liable to be always too dry, should be avoided, if 
possible, as also should those that are too compact, as they 
retain the water on the surface. As regards the improvement 
of the soil in a nursery, a mixture of vegetable mould is 
preferable to manure off the dung-heap. A tree raised in soil 
richly manured is better than one grown in bad soil, but 
inferior to one grown in good natural soil composed of various 
elements. The ground is broken up before winter, and the 
soil and compost mixed together in the trench, and not 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



27 



deposited in layers. Stones, roots, and weeds are removed. 
When the season for planting arrives, all that has to be done 
is to level down the soil, giving it a second and final turning. 
Although we are not partial to the use of dung-heap manure 
in nurseries, nevertheless, soils of inferior quality must be 
improved by the addition of slowly-decomposing materials, 
which will impart to them the elements in which they are 
deficient, and secure a vigorous growth to the plants. Such 
are road scrapings, deposits of streams, stable refuse, old 
mortar or plaster, garden rubbish, old bones and horns, 
cinders, parings off meadows, sand, &c, all which are to be 
mixed and spread long before the time of planting. 

Planting, 

A. young, compact, well-rooted plant should be selected. If 
more than one year old, it should have been transplanted. 
Before planting, it is dressed, that is, its roots and branches 
are pruned and cleaned. The stem should be cut down to 
about ten inches from the collar, if the graft is to be low down, 
and about four inches in cases of stocks for standards. 
The side branches should be cut away, or rather shortened. 
Evergreens and certain kinds with hollow wood, as the sweet 
and horse chestnuts, the walnut, and the tulip-tree, should not 
be topped. The trees should be planted in rows, so that those 
of each successive row may be opposite the spaces of the 
preceding one, and at distances calculated according to the 
future size of the subjects. A space of twenty inches between 
the plants, and thirty inches between the rows, is the average 
in well-kept nurseries. This may be increased or diminished 
as the plant is likely to branch much or not, and in proportion 
to the length of time it is to remain in the nursery. The 
planting is done with a dibble or spade. If it is carried 
on slowly, or in a time of great heat, the roots of all the plants 



23 



THE AET OP 



should be dipped in mud, or in a mixture of soft clay and cow- 
dung, which will prevent them from suffering by being kept 
out of the ground. The soil should be well pressed down 
after planting. Watering will generally be necessary the first 
year only, and then chiefly at the commencement of 
vegetation. 

Cutting down the Stem, 

During the first year we confine ourselves to the culture 
and care of the plant. We will suppose that it is intended 
for a tall standard : we will speak further on of low stocks. 
After the first year of growth, or before the second commences, 
the plant intended for a tall standard is cut down to within 
two inches from the surface of the soil. This operation should 
not be performed until the month of February or March, when 
the sap is at rest and the winter frosts are no longer to be 
feared. During the summer we select the finest shoot which 
has sprang from the stump, and bend and tie it up to the 
stump, so as to give it a vertical position. All the other shoots 
are cut away; and in autumn the stump itself is cut away. 
Should it be found difficult to fasten the shoot properly to the 
stump, a stake may be used instead. The following year the 
young tree will be allowed to grow on. If it should turn out 
badly, it must be cut down a second time, or else grafted at 
the base with a vigorous kind, which, when it has grown 
sufficiently, will furnish a suitable stock. This cutting down 
is, of course, unnecessary in the case of fine, stout, vigorous, 
and straight stocks ; but with doubtful subjects it is better to 
practise it. 

Trimming the Young Stoch. 

This consists in cutting off the useless branches. In general, 
the strong ones are removed altogether, being cut close to the 
stem; the medium-sized are shortened, and the weak ones 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



29 



left as they are. The shortened branches may be left from 
two to ten inches long, always retaining some of the eyes. It ' 
shonld not be forgotten that cutting the branches weakens a 
tree, and that retaining them has the opposite effect. In this 
operation, therefore, the healthy growth, as well as the form 
of the stock, should be considered. "When the stem is strong, 
it will not suffer from the removal of the lateral branches 
from the neck up to the place intended for the graft. In 
short, strong stems should be cut closely, weakly ones only 
partially, and poor ones as little as possible. In cutting away 
a branch entirely, it is well to leave a small portion with a 
bud on it at the base. In making the cut, the direction of the 
pruning-knife should be from below upwards, as it requires 
Tery great skill to make a clean cut in the other direction, 
and avoid tearing the wood. To prevent the growth of useless 
thick branches near the terminal shoot, the buds on that part 
should be pinched off in the spring. The young leading 
shoot should be trimmed moderately; its branches being 
shortened where they are too long, and the others left as they 
are. It should not be topped until it has grown at least a foot 
beyond the height intended for the graft. 

Preparation of the Stoch for Grafting. 
Whether the stock shall be headed down or not will depend 
on the mode of grafting employed. The removal of the head^ 
indispensable in crown-grafting, is effected at the moment of 
commencing the operation, as the wound is then not likely to 
become inflamed, being covered immediately with the grafting- 
wax, as soon as the graft is in position. However, when large 
trees are grafted, they should be cut some weeks beforehand ; 
and the same may be said of all kinds of grafting which are 
done at the time when the sap begins to flow, and which 
require the stock to be cut in this way. During the dead 



so 



THE ART OF 



season, after the heavy frosts have passed, the head of the 
stock should be cut down to within about 4 inches above the 
place where it is intended to insert the graft. At the time of 
grafting it is cut finally, or else the wood is simply trimmed 
by slightly reducing the length of the stock, so that the graft 
may be placed in contact with a living and healthy part. 
Side-grafting does not require the removal of the head of the 
stock. It is sufficient that the part which is to receive the 
graft should be clear, and that the shoots for 4 inches above 
and below it be cut away. The upper branches will then 
continue to draw up the sap, and the lower ones will promote 
the growth of the stock. In summer graftings, the stocks 
should be trimmed a month beforehand. The flow of the 
sap, which is diminished by this operation, will then have had 
time to recover its activity, and will contribute to the success 
of the graft. But cutting oh superfluous branches a week 
or so before grafting would be followed by a check in the 
flow of the sap at that time, which would be very detrimental to 
the uniting of the parts of the graft. It would be better not 
to cut them till the moment of grafting, as the junction would 
be complete before the vegetation had suffered much abate- 
ment. These operations should be performed with keen-edged 
tools, and by a skilful workman, who would neither bruise the 
stock nor leave stumps full of supplemental buds. Resinous 
trees do not require this preparatory treatment. With the 
exception of bushy kinds, stocks grafted low down the first 
year of their planting have seldom any branches to be removed. 
It is sufficient to wipe with the hand or a rag the place which 
is to receive the graft. Usually, grafting is performed on a 
low stem, which has been shortened down to 10 inches at 
the time of planting. In grafting briars, any prickles that 
are in the way should be removed, as well as any buds of 
the stock that might come under the bandage. This is done 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING-. 



32 



at the time of grafting. If, from any cause, the flow of the 
sap is arrested in mid-summer, vegetation should be excited 
by liquid-manure waterings, moving the soil about the roots, 
and a mulching of old hot-bed manure. 

Selection of the Scion. 
The tree, branch, or shoot which is grafted on the stock, 
and which it is desired to propagate, is termed the scion or 
graft. The plant from which it is taken is called the parent 
plant or tree. The scion should be of good quality, healthy, 
hardy, and of sound constitution. An unsound scion 
propagates whatever defect it possesses, and a bad selection 
repeated for several generations leads to a degeneration of the 
variety, which is, however, local and not general. The proof 
of this is furnished by the sub-varieties of trees with 
variegated leaves. The variegation is propagated by grafting, 
yet the type remains none the less exempt from the disease 
which produces it. Though the defect is not always visible, 
as in the case of variegation, propagation with inferior scions 
is sure to lead to degeneration ; one should be very cautious 
about taking scions from a tree of unknown quality. In 
nurseries great importance is very properly attached to the 
vigorous condition and true name of the parent trees. These, 
while supplying scions, are also carefully trained. They are 
pruned in order to obtain a greater number of branches, but 
care is taken to reserve, from one year to another, some 
branches uncut, if it is desired to have scions that will arrive 
at maturity more speedily. The shoots which are developed 
on the upper part of an uncut branch ripen their wood sooner 
than any others. "When a growing tree is to be grafted into 
another, it should be planted for at least a year beforehand, 
near the subject on which it is proposed to graft it. The 
scion should be cut from the parent tree just before it is 



32 



THE ART 01? 



used. For grafting during the dead season, the scions may 
be cut some time beforehand, but not until the sap has gone 
to rest. They may be kept in good condition until they are 
wanted by burying the ends about 4 inches in the ground, in 
the shade of a house or of an evergreen tree. Long branches 
should be buried deeper and laid in a slanting position in the 
trench. They Trill keep much longer if placed in an ice cellar, 
buried horizontally in fine sandy gravel such as is used for 
walks. Graft buds should be taken from the branch which 
produces them just before they are used. A scion should 
never be allowed to suffer by long exposure to the air or 
dampness. The cactus family furnishes individuals from 
which scions may be detached and exposed to the sun for 
several months without the least injury; but we are now 
occupied with woody plants, and not with hothouse or her- 
baceous kinds. Scions with the leaves removed may easily 
be sent considerable distances during the repose of the sap, 
provided they are kept cool. They should be wrapped in 
moss, and the end of each stuck into a potato, artichoke, Sec. 
When they arrive at the end of their journey, they should be 
put into water for a few hours, and then laid in a shady place. 
If the bark is wrinkled, they should be entirely covered with 
soil in a trench and left thus buried for two or three weeks. 
The same precautions should be taken with shoots sent during 
the time of vegetation, either by post or other mode of speedy 
transport. 

GRAFTING UNDER GLASS 

General Directions. 

Certain plants require to be propagated under the shelter 
of a cloche, frame, or greenhouse. Such are evergreen trees 
and shrubs, and tender, rare, or new plants. Evenness of 
growth, equability of temperature, and keeping the subjects 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING, 



88 



from exposure to the air or other adverse influences, very 
much promote the union of the graft. The stock is a young 
plant which has been potted and allowed to grow in the open 
air for about a season. When it is time to graft it, it is put 
under cover. There are, however, certain shrubs which may 
be grafted at the time when the stock is potted ; such as the 
Holly, Ehododendrons, dwarf Biotas, and most shrubs the 
roots of which readily group themselves into a ball. The 
best seasons for grafting under glass are from January to 
March, and from July to September. Beyond the shelter of 
the greenhouse or other covering, no artificial heat from 
manure, hot-air or hot-water pipes will be required ; and as 
the stocks are not exposed to the action of the sun, frost, or 
other atmospheric influences, the grafts will not need the pro- 
tection of grafting-clay or wax. In times of great heat, the 
glass of the house, frame, or cloche is covered on the outside 
with a mixture of the colouring-stuff called et English Green" 
and whiting, or simply with whiting dissolved in water or 
milk ; mats, canvas, or screens made with twigs or small 
branches of broom, heath, or birch may also be used for this 
purpose. These, if steeped in a solution of sulphate of copper, 
will not so soon decay. 

Grafting Under the Cloche. 
This is the most simple method of grafting under glass, 
no house or other shelter than that of the cloche being 
required. A quadrangular bed of river-sand is made suffi- 
ciently broad to contain two or three rows of ordinary cloches. 
In February or March, sometimes in July, the stocks are 
grafted in pots, and plunged in groups in the sand under 
the cloches. The rim of the cloche is sunk in the sand, so as 
to exclude the air completely from the plants, and they are 
left so for six weeks. By that time the union of the grafts 

will be perfected. The cloches are then gradually raised for 

D 



34 



THE ART OP 



a week, after which they are removed altogether ; bnt the 
young plants are kept shaded with canvas or other screens. 
These are at length removed altogether, before planting the 
subjects out. The stocks are raised in pots before-hand. 
They may also be sometimes grafted at the same time that 
they are potted. Evergreens, also, which can be taken up 
with the roots in a ball, are often grafted after they are taken 
up. They are then planted under cloches, in a compost of 
good soil, and not potted until two months afterwards, when 
the cloches are dispensed with. Autumn -grafting under the 
cloche does not succeed so well, and involves a greater 
amount of care and attention. During winter, the rows of 
cloches are covered with dead leaves and straw mats ; but it 
is very rare that severe winters do not leave their marks 
behind them. The amateur who desires to try grafting under 
glass, may satisfy himself, at a trifling expense, by operating in 
spring with the cloche, and in open ground or nearly so. 

Grafting in Frames. 
The frame consists of a wooden box, set in cement or 
brickwork about 2 feet high, and sunk in the ground to 
one-half its depth. If the height of the stocks requires it, 
the soil should be excavated from the bottom to a suitable 
depth, leaving the height of the frame over-ground as it was. 
The frame may be about 4| feet wide, and should be covered 
with glazed lights. The interstices between the lights and the 
frame should be stuffed with moss, in order to exclude the 
air. At the bottom of the frame is placed a layer of sand, 
tan, cinders, or even of ordinary soil, in which the subjects 
are plunged as soon as they are grafted. August is the best 
time for grafting under glass. The stocks should be grafted 
in the propagating shed at that time, or from the latter 
part of July to the commencement of September, and placed 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 35 

immediately in the frames. Spring is also a snitable time for 
this mode of grafting. As the perfect union of the parts 
does not take place sooner than five or six weeks after grafting, 
the air shonld be thoroughly excluded from the frame durino* 
that time. Then the lights shonld be slightly raised for a few 
hours every day, when the weather is warm. Should the 
sun be powerful, tender plants must be shaded with screens 
or canvas spread over the lights, or by whitewashing the 
glass. But during the first weeks the frames should be 
covered with straw mats. 




Propagating-House. 
Grafting in a House, 



The propagating-house here represented is of very simple 
construction. It is sunk to about from 20 inches to 3^ feet 
under the surface of the ground. The bottom is kept dry by 
I layer of 4 to 6 inches of sand and cinders. The outer walls 
are 16 inches thick ; the height inside from floor to roof is 
feet ; and the glazed roof is about 4J feet wide from the 
top to the sides. Two raised beds, each 3 feet wide, are sepa- 
rated by a passage 28 inches wide, and in these beds the 
stocks are planted as soon as they are grafted. These beds 
are filled with tan, sand, cinders, or ordinary soil. Instead of 

i) 2 



35 



THE ART OP 



one of the beds there might be a shelf, which could be used 
for holding the potted stocks which are ready for grafting. 
When the beds are used for raising cuttings, or receiving 
plants that have been bud-grafted, or for some winter opera- 
tions, a layer of dung-heap manure mixed with dead leaves 
should be applied. The leaves serve to maintain the heat in 
the manure, an object which also may be effected by a mixture 
of fragments of cotton-waste. Artificial heat is not required 
in grafting under glass. When the stocks are grafted, which 
may be done either inside or outside of the house, they 
should be arranged on the bed or shelf in groups, keeping 
similar kinds as much together as possible. They are then 
covered with cloches, which exclude the air, and under which 
they are kept for six or eight weeks. Every five or six days 
the condensed vapour on the inside of the cloche should be 
wiped off, and the cloche carefully replaced over the plants, 
so that the air may not enter. The omission of this precaution 
would be more dangerous than neglecting to wipe the con- 
densed vapours from the interior of the cloche. During 
periods of great heat, the cloches should be covered with 
sheets of grey paper, and the glass of the house whitewashed. 
Conifers are more hardy than evergreens, and for them this 
will be superfluous. As soon as the union of the graft is 
complete, which will be in the space of six or eight weeks, the 
cloche is removed and the plant left without it for three or 
four weeks, but still under the shelter of the house; or, 
should the house be required for any other purpose, the 
plants may be removed at once to a frame and covered with 
the lights. 

9 

Treatment after Grafting under Glass. 
After grafting, the subjects are left for six or eight weeks ' 
cut off from the external air. As soon as the union of the I 



GRAITIXG AXD BUDDING. 



8: 



parts has been established, the plants are still left nnder 
glass, but partially exposed to the air in the frame or honse 
by removing the cloches. If the grafting has taken place 
in autumn, the plants already grafted in frames are left there, 
and those which have been grafted in the house are also put 
under frames, where they will remain during the winter. 
When spring comes, the lights are raised in the day-time ; in 
the month of May the plants are removed into the open air, 
and should be placed at the north side of a building or 
evergreen hedge. If the grafting has been done in spring, 
the plants which have been grafted under cloches or frames, 
and which have been already partially exposed to the air, 
should be put out in the same way in the shade. Plants 
grafted in a house should be put for a month under a frame, 
the lights of which should be raised in times of great heat ; 
after this they are put out for a while in a shady place 
before they are finally committed to the open ground. In 
nurseries, this shading quarter is formed by a row of ever- 
greens with compact and well-clipped foliage. The Chinese 
Arbor vitas (Biota orientalis) is generally used for this purpose, 
planted from east to west, so as to afford a full north aspect, 
and at a distance of two feet from each other. For stocks as 
tall as five or six feet, a row of trees planted at least six and 
a half feet from each other will afford an excellent shade. The 
higher the shading is required to be, the greater should be 
the distance between the trees which form it, in order to 
admit a free circulation of air. When the plants are placed in 
the shade they should be moved into larger pots, and should be 
plunged in groups in beds at the foot of the shading trees, 
where they are to remain a year or two in the same pots. When 
sufficiently grown they are again moved into larger pots. 
According to their nature, they may be subsequently planted 
permanently in shade, or in the open ground, or in the inter- 



33 



THE AUT OP 



mediate position known as the parasol. The parasol is a row 
of deciduous trees planted similarly to the evergreen shading 
trees. Every time the plants are moved, whether in pots or 
not, their roots should be surrounded with a compost approach- 
ing in character the soil in which they are to be finally planted. 
Peat-soil mixed with river-sand is best for the first stages. 
Woody plants prefer a substantial kind of nutriment to 
manures that will ferment and whose action is temporary. 
Pots with longitudinal grooves in the sides answer well for 
raising trees and shrubs. After the grafted shrubs have thus 
gone through the different phases of treatment which finally 
conduct them to open-air growth, they thenceforward come 
under the treatment commonly used in the management of 
hardy plants. 

METHODS OF GRAFTING. 

These are numerous, and vary according to circumstances, 
being not unfrequently the result of chance or the fancy of 
the operator. From our own experience and observation we 
shall describe the modes which are most useful. By modifying 
them in one way or other the number may be increased ; but 
all may be referred to the types which we shall describe, and 
may be employed with the same results. A systematic classi- 
fication of them is difficult, on account of their number and 
the almost invisible lines of demarcation by which some of 
them are divided from each other. They may, however, be 
grouped into three great divisions, viz. : — Grafting by 
approach, or inarching; with detached scions; and with 
detached buds. 

In the descriptive part, under each subdivision, we shall 
give the title by which each particular operation is known. 
We have arranged the subject in the following order: — 



GEAJTDsG- A2sD BUDDDsG. 



Grafting hy Approach, 
Group 1. — Method by veneering. 

„ by inlaying. 
English method. 
Group 2. — Inarching with an eye. 

„ with a branch. 
Grafting witli Detached Scions. 
Group 1. — Side-grafting under the bark. 

with a simple branch* 
with a heeled branch, 
in the alburnum, 
with a straight cleft, 
with an oblique cleft. 
Group 2. — Crown-grafting. 

Ordinary method. 
Improved method. 
Group 3. — Grafting de precision. 

Veneering, common method. 
„ in crown-grafting. 
„ with strips of bark. 
Crown-grafting by inlaying. 
Side-grafting by inlaying. 
Group 4. — Cleft -grafting, common single. 

„ „ double, 

„ oblique. 
„ terminal. 
99 99 woody. 

„ „ herbaceous. 

Group 5. — Whip -grafting, simple. 

„ complex. 
Saddle-grafting. 
Group 6. — Mixed grafting. 

Grafting with cutting*. 



THE ART OP 



When the scion is a cutting. 
"When the stock is a cutting. 
When both are cuttings. 

Boot-Grafting. 
01 a plant on its own root. 

„ on the root of another plant, 
(drafting with fruit-buds. 

Bud- Grafting (Budding). 
Group 1. — Grafting with shield-buds. 

Bud-grafting under the bark, or by inoculation. 

„ ordinary method. 

„ with a cross-shaped incision. 

„ with the incision reversed. 

„ by veneering. 

„ the combined or double method. 
Group 2. — Flute-grafting. 

„ common method. 

„ with strips of bark. 

GRAFTING BY APPROACH, 

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. 

Grafting by approach is the most ancient of all the methods 
of grafting. From time immemorial nature has given 
examples of it in our forests, hedges, arbours, &c, where we 
find trees joined together by their branches, stems, or roots, 
from long-continued contact or rubbing. Grafting by approach 
then, consists in uniting two trees by their stems or branches, 
In certain cases, the shoot of a tree or plant is thus grafted 
on the parent stem or branch. The season for grafting by 
approach commences and ends with the flow of the sap, from 
March to September. The stock and the scion may be in the 
woody or the herbaceous state, the mode of operation being the 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



41 



same in both. In grafting by approach, the scion is not stripped 
of its leaves, as in the other modes, because it remains attached 
to the parent plant while it is being joined to the stock. From 
both scion and stock a precisely similar portion of wood and 
bark is removed, so that the parts may fit exactly when they 
are put together. In order to promote their union, the graft 
is bandaged, and covered with grafting-wax. In the case of 



two trees being grafted together, a prop or stake is used. 
After they have continued to grow together for, at least, a year, 
when the union may be considered perfect, the part grafted on 
the other may be detached from the parent stem. The modes 
of grafting by approach may be divided into two classes : — 
First, those ordinary methods, in which the upper part of the 




Veneer- Grafting by Approach. 



42 



THE ART OP 



scion is retained after it is joined to the stock; and second, the 
process, named "inarching," in which the cut top of the 
scion is inserted nnder the bark of the stock. 

Group J. — Ordinary Grafting hy Approach, 
The scion is a tree, or a branch of a tree, distinct from 




Approach- Grafting by Inlaying. 



the stock or a branch belonging to the stock itself. The 
top of the scion is kept entire above the point of con- 
tact with the stock; however, if too long, it may be cnt 
above the graft, leaving two or three eyes if it be a single 
shoot, and a length of four, eight, or twelve inches if it be a 
ramified branch. There are different ways of joining the 



GKAFTING AtfD BUDDING. 



43 



scion and stock, named after other modes of grafting, as by 
veneering, by inlaying, and by the English method. 

Veneer- Grafting by Approach. 
The scion A (fig. p. 41) has a portion of the bark and alburnum 
removed at a. In the stock (B) a flat-bottomed groove is made 
at b, reaching to the alburnum, and corresponding in dimen- 
sions to the part a of the scion. The metro-greffe will be 
useful here in adapting these two parts accurately to each other, 




They are then joined together at C, bandaged, and covered with 
grafting-wax if necessary. 

Approach- Grafting by Inlaying. 
The scion D (fig. p. 42) is cut on both sides at d. The stock 
(E) is prepared to receive it by having an angular groove made 



THE AET OP 



at e, into which the bevelled part d will fit accurately, and be 
inlaid, as shown at F. 

English Method of Approach-Grafting. 

In addition to bandaging, the parts may be still more firmly 
consolidated by means of corresponding tongues or notches (A 
and B) cut in each, so as to fit exactly into each other, C (fig. p. 
43). If it is apprehended that the union of the parts will be 
tedious, the top of the stock is cut off at the time of grafting 
and the scion joined to its extremity. This is called the 
English method. 

Group II. — Approach-Grafting hj Inarching. 

Although more particularly employed for restoring defective 




Approach-Grafting by Inarching. 

parts of plants and trees, this mode of grafting by approach 
is equally useful for multiplication. The proper time for it is 
from April to July. The chief difference between this and 
the preceding group consists in the cutting off the top of the 
scion, whether tree or branch, and the inoculation of the top 
so cut under the bark of the stock. The cutting of the scion 
is made under an eye or a shoot, so that one or other may be 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



45 



set in the stock. This scion, having been topped and cut in 
the manner represented at S in our illustration (p 44), under the 
terminal bud or shoot, is grafted into the stock by means of a 
reversed T-shaped incision in the bark, as shown at Y. The 
place of the incision is calculated from the length of the 
scion, which should be an inch or so longer, so that in 
inserting it into the incision it is first slightly bent, drawn 
back, and the point then allowed to slip under the bark. The 
two principal modes of inarching are only to be used during 
the flow of the sap. in spring or in summer. 

Inarcliing with an Eye. 
The eye being selected for the terminal bud, the scion is cut 
at the end with a flat splice-graft, as shown at S (p. 44). It is 
then inserted uuder the bark of the stock T, which is raised 
at Y. We shall represent hereafter the same graft completed 
and beginning to vegetate. When the bark of the stock is 
thick, an incision is made with a double longitudinal cut, the 
intervening strip of bark is raised at one end, and the top of 
the scion is inserted under it. Neither the strip of bark nor 
the bandage should cover the eye of the scion. 

Inarcliing with a Branch. 
The scion L (p. 46) bearing a lateral branch (M), is cut 
about an inch above it, in a sloping direction (N), on the 
side next the branch. Care should be taken not to cut the 
end too thin ; and the leaves are not to be removed from 
either the branch or the scion. The stock is either a distinct 
ree or a branch (0) bearing the scion. The incision (P) is 
made in such a manner that the introduction of the scion is 
effected, as represented at E. The branch (M) may be left 
entire or cut down to two eyes, according to its length. It is 
called an " anticipated branch " if it has been produced in tho 



46 



THE ART OP 



course of the year on the herbaceous scion, in which case the 
grafting would take place in summer. It is called a " branch" 
simply, if it has been developed in the spring on the woody 
scion, or in the preceding year on the main branch. In this 
case, the grafting would take place from April to June. 

Treatment after Grafting by Approach. 
The employment of two distinct subjects, so as to preserve 
a harmony of growth, necessitates the use of fastenings, 




Inarching with a Branch. 



supports, props, or hooks, in order to fix the grafted stems 
and branches as firmly as possible in the desired position. 
Should the bandage have penetrated the bark, it must 
be removed, and a fresh one put on if there is reason to 
think that the union of the parts is not completed. The 
final detachment of the graft requires the greatest care. 
It consists in separating the branch or stem which forms 
the scion from the parent plant as soon as it (the scion) can 
dispense with its support, and is the last operation in layering 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING 



45 



and grafting by approach. It comprises two points : — first, 
cutting off the head of the stock above the graft ; second, 
cutting the scion-branch or stem below the graft. It is 
prudent to proceed by degrees both in the entire operation 
and in its details, first cutting off the head of the stock 
and afterwards detaching the scion from the parent stem. 
In both cases this should be done by a series of successive 
cuttings, in order to avoid the reaction consequent on 
extensive mutilation. 

Catting off the Head of the Stock. 

The operations for this purpose may commence a fortnight 
after grafting, if the graft appears to have succeeded. Firsts 
the extremities only of the principal branches are cut off. 
A week after this they are shortened down to 4 or 8 inches. 
When the union of the graft is certain, the stem is shortened 
in two or three cuttings, so as to leave a simple stump about 
2 inches above the graft, and furnished, if possible, with 
small shoots to draw the sap. "With subjects grafted in 
spring, this operation is performed about the end of summer ; 
the cohesion of the parts will be perfect before winter. But 
if the grafting takes place later, we should confine ourselves 
before winter to shortening the branches of the head or the 
leading shoot as soon as the parts are perfectly united. The 
final cutting down to 4 inches above the graft should be 
postponed to the following spring, when the sap begins to 
flow. The heel or stump is retained for one season, to serve 
as a prop to which the scion is tied, and also that the shoots 
left upon it may draw up the sap. It is cut away entirely 
when the cohesion of the parts is considered perfect and 
the scion sufficiently vigorous to dispense with it. It would 
not be amiss to cover the wound with grafting-wax, and to 
continue the prop for some time longer. This succession 



48 



THE ART OS 



of cuttings is only applicable to those eases of grafting in 
which the stock has not been previously headed down, 
and when the part above the graft is to be replaced by the 
development of the scion. 

Detachment of the Scion from the Parent Stem. 

This is an important matter, as by it the scion is left to its 
own resources, the parent stem being no longer called upon to 
support it. "We cannot, therefore, set about this operation 
with too much circumspection. In the first place, complete 
separation should not take place until the graft has attained 
one full season's growth. Some persons do not always 
observe this rule ; but we cannot recommend anyone to follow 
their example, and the grafter will find our opinion confirmed 
in the course of his practice. However, the scion should 
continue connected with the parent as long as its union with 
the stock is incomplete. The time of perfect cohesion may be 
judged of by the swelling which rises round the edges of the 
joining, and by the simultaneous growth of the two parts. 
In case of doubt, it is best to act prudently, and prepare the 
young tree to support itself without the help of the parent. 
This is done by making cuttings or incisions on the part which 
joins the parent to the stock. A single incision may suffice, 
but at the end of a week or a fortnight it should be made 
deeper. Instead of a single incision, the separation may be 
gradually effected by a succession of cuttings penetrating the 
bark and the wood, or of circular incisions or rings on the 
arm of the graft. These are begun at some distance from the 
point of contact with the stock, and are made deeper and 
nearer to the graft at each successive operation. At last the 
branch is cut clean off close to the graft-, and the wound 
covered with grafting-wax. 



GRAFTING AXD BUDDING. 



4.9 



Be-planting. 

Should the new tree not find in the place where it has been 
grafted a sufficient supply of nutritive elements, it should, in 
almost every instance, be taken up and transplanted into 
another place, either in the nursery or where it is intended to 
stand permanently. It is better not to remove it until it has 
grown at least a year from the time of its detachment from 
the parent. It will thus have become inured to exist on its 
own resources, and will not have been subjected to several 
severe operations in quick succession. Should the separation 
have produced any deviation from the desired direction of 
growth in the grafted tree, a stake or prop should be used, 
which will keep in a straight line both the stock and the 
graft at the same time. A few longitudinal incisions on the 
elbows or curved parts aid the dilatation of the tissues, the free 
circulation of the sap, and the straightening of the stem ; but 
trees newly transplanted should not be thus cut. 

Propagation by Approach- Grafting. 
In all cases it is best to have the scion and stock in close 
proximity to each other, as the work of grafting is thereby 
simplified. In well-kept nurseries, the parent-trees are 
planted in positions where grafting by approach is intended to 
be carried on, either before the stocks are planted, or at the 
same- time. Should parent-trees and stocks, which are strong 
enough to be grafted at once, be planted, they should not be 
operated upon for at least a year. They will thus be better 
rooted, and the union of the graft will be more certain. 
Those parent-trees and stocks are selected which may be 
grafted with success, and are trained in a tall or branching 
form, in order to facilitate their junction at the time of 
grafting. The same parent may furnish scions to several 
stocks at the same or different times. The illustration exhibits 

E 



50 



THE ART OF 



several methods of placing stocks of various sizes in proximity 
to a common parent -tree. Here the stock which, is high 
enough is grafted in the upper part with a scion growing at 
the same elevation, while its neighbour, which is too high for 
the next scion, must be drawn towards the ground, in order 
to be brought into contact with it. Another is grafted close 
to the ground. Among the subjects in pots, some are placed 
on a simple or double stand, which raises them to the desired 
height ; another is grafted with the pot buried in the soil, 




Various modes of Grafting- by Approach from a common parent-tree, 
which may answer it better. The stocks being young and the 
scions sufficiently flexible, they can be brought together in 
places best suited for grafting them. In nurseries, small 
specimens of new trees are sometimes kept in pots. If it is 
desired to propagate them on tall stems, stocks of the required 
height are planted, and the parent-plant is elevated sufficiently 
by means of a stand. The following representation exhibits a 
specimen of this kind of work. In order to protect the parent 



GRAFTING A2vD BUDDING. 



51 



from tlie effects of prolonged drought, the pot should be 
placed inside a larger one, and the space between them filled 
with moss, which should be kept moist, or with fine sand, 
which is better for keeping cool. An example of a method 
diametrically opposite to the preceding is very often seen in 




Grafting by Approach with the parent-plant elevated. 

mrseries, in which the parent-tree is very strong and 
branching, while the extension of its roots and the shade of 
its foliage seldom allow young stocks to be planted around it. 
In order to propagate it, young stocks must be grown in 

e 2 



■52 



THE ART OF 



pots. In the second year of their growth they are placed 
among the branches of the parent-tree. For this purpose a 
stage with steps or shelves is erected, on which the stocks are 
placed within reach of different branches. The pots placed on 
each shelf are surrounded with a bed of moss, tan, sand, or other 
material, which will retain a moist coolness ; for it will be 
difficult to water them, and rain and dew will be intercepted 
by the foliage. When a tree is intended to serve as a parent 
in grafting by approach, it is well to excite the sap to flow 
towards the scion -branches, especially at the time of grafting. 
Accordingly, the branches not used for grafting should be 
lopped or shortened without weakening the tree. This 
suppression of some of the branches will cause a greater flow 
of sap to the others which are to be used as scions. It also 
enables us to repeat the operation of grafting by approach 
every year with the same parent-tree. The shoots which are 
developed by the cutting of the branches which are not grafted 
will serve in their turn, should there be need of them, for 
scions the following season, just when the detachment of the 
previous year's grafts is commenced. 

Grafting by Approach applied to the Restoring of Plants. 

This is not the only method in use for the restoration of 
defective plants, but it is a valuable one when the object is to 
change the variety of the tree, to renew its stem, or to repair 
the want or loss of branches. Of each of these cases we give 
an example : — 

1, Changing the Variety. — The vine is restored in this way. 
Alongside the stock which it is desired to change to another 
variety, is planted in winter a young vine well rooted and 
furnished with a thoroughly ripened shoot. When the time 
for grafting arrives, in April, the stock is cut down according 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



53 



to the height of the new plant, and as low as possible. With 
the curved gouge, a longitudinal groove is made in the top of 
the stock, into which is inlaid the shoot of the young plant, 
slightly pared on the sides. It is then cut down to two or 
three eyes above the graft, after it has been bandaged and 




Grafting the Vine by Approach, Grafting by Approach, to 

to change the variety. renew a defective stem. 

covered with graf ting-wax. Instead of shortening the stock 
at once, it might be left until the graft has been perfectly 
united, and shortened in the following spring. 

2. Renewing the Stem. — The subject (X) whose stem is 
cankered and which has " gourmand " branches at the base 



54 



THE ART OF 



can be repaired by means of these branches (Y) being inarched 
npon the stem above the diseased part. The flow of the sap, 
which has been interrupted by this, will thus be re-esta- 
blished. Should the diseased tree have no branches at the 
base, a stout stock is planted near it. After a year's good 
growth, the head of the stock (Z) is cut off and inarched into 
the stem of the other above the canker. Should a single tree 
not be sufficient for this restoration, a number are planted 
round and grafted into the old one in the same way, and when 




Restoration of a Main Branch by Approach- Graf ting. 

the graft is thoroughly established, the cankered base may be 
cut away. 

3. Restoration of Main Branches. — In the training of frait- 
trees to any particular form there will sometimes be gaps 
or vacancies where certain parts have not been able to 
develop themselves, or have disappeared. If a branch cannot 
be obtained by close pruning, incision, branch or bud-grafting, 
the neighbouring branches are made use of and trained in 
such a manner that the symmetry of the design may not 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



55 



be deranged. But, as the branches do not always furnish 
shoots sufficiently vigorous for this purpose, a speedy 
method of repairing the partial loss of a branch is shown in 
the annexed illustration. Here a deficiency on one side of a 
chandelier palmette is supplied by planting a young tree 
near it into which the defective branch is grafted. It should 




Peach-tree Grafted by Approach under the Bark. 

be of the same or a similar kind as the old tree in habit 
and vigour ; and, if the grafting is effected by inarching, it 
should not be done for a least a year after the planting of 
the young tree. 

4. Fumisliinrj hare Brandies. — On trees of a certain age it 
is difficult to obtain, either by means of incision or bud or 



56 



THE AUT 0* 



branch grafting, fruiting branches on those parts which want 
them. It will be necessary then to employ the method of 
grafting by approach, that is, if the vacant places are near 
suitable branches. The Peach-tree, which is liable to lose 
its branches, usually bears shoots which can be easily 
grafted by approach on the bare spots ; and the operation 
is performed in June and July with herbaceous shoots. 
When a vacancy exists which it is desirable to supply with 
a branch, in the beginning of summer an herbaceous 
shoot is taken and applied to the branch, where it is 
grafted by approach. The shoot is cut opposite to an eye, 
which is let into the incision in the branch, and the 
extremity will go on to develop itself. The result will be 
a good fruiting branch when the detachment takes place 
at least a year afterwards. Instead of making an incision 
in the main branch, it will be sufficient to raise the bark by 
a double T incision, if the condition of the sap allows it. In 
this is placed the shoot, which has been slightly cut at D, 
opposite an eye. The development of this shoot will facili- 
tate the fork-pruning used with the fruit branches of the 
Peach. This method was recommended in 1829 by M. 
Leroy, gardener at Auteuil. Inarching is useful for furnishing 
branches with shoots, and an eye or a shoot may be grafted 
or budded into the bare part. Sometimes we sever in 
August the arms of grafts insetted in the month of June 
preceding. If there is no anticipative branch, one is excited 
to develop itself by pinching the shoot three weeks before 
grafting. When the young branch is developed, the leaf 
which springs from its base is partially pinched, in order to 
force the fruit -buds of the new branch to continue at the 
base. The pruning of the fruiting branch will be afterwards 
made easier by this operation. The vine is easily furnished 
with shoots on vacant parts by approach-grafting. It is best 



GRAFTING AlffB BUDDING. 



57 



to employ lierbaceous shoots in May or June. The bark only 
of the stock should be cut, without removing any of the 
wood, especially if it is old ; in which case, or when the scion 
is woody and not herbaceous, the detachment is effected by 
degrees in two years. In 1868 we applied successfully to the 
vine this method of inarching in order to fill up vacant 
spaces on the stems. The shoot, headed and pared under an 
eye, was let into the stem by a J_ incision. A month after- 
wards the union was complete, and the bud (A) grew 
vigorously. This was the first time, we believe, in which this 
mode of grafting was used with the vine. 




Vacant spaces on Vine-stems filled up by Grafting by Approach. 
5. To Preserve the Form of the Tree. — "When the advan- 
tages of approach-grafting are better appreciated, it will be 
more frequently used for preserving symmetry of form and 
equilibrium of growth in trees trained in particular forms 
and shapes, and will also simplify the labour of pruning, 
pinching, and tying up. YTe saw in the Horticultural 
Society's Garden at ^lulhouse, a fine wall of peach-trees in 
an oblique cordon, joined at the top by approach-grafting. 
The heat of the sun and the gum had injured some of them 
so much that 1L Menet (professor of gardening to the society) 
had been obliged to cut away the damaged stems to the 



58 



TIIE ART OF 



height of three and a quarter feet and burn them. The 
upper parts were left, and these continued to live and bear 
fruit, being fed by the sap of the neighbouring trees, on 
which the shoots had been grafted by approach. Horizontal 
cordons of apple-trees present the same result when the 
stems of any trees which have been grafted into the adjacent 
ones are cut away. 

Approach-Grafting in Figure-Training. 
In order to show the happy results of grafting by approach, 




Self -supporting Espalier formed by Approach-Grafting, 
we have here figured some specimens of espaliers trained in 
the garden of M. Pallet, at Brunoy. The trainer, M. Fores:, 
has employed grafting either to complete their construction or 
to preserve the equilibrium of growth. MM. Yan Huile and 
Burvenich described these trees, in 1867, in their reports to 
the Belgian Government. Annexed is a representation of an 
espalier of pear-trees, formed with small palmettes, the 
branches of which interlace and touch each other. The trees 
are grafted at the points of contact, in the centre of the 
design, where the branches touch back to back, and not where 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



they cross and diverge. The slight curvature of the branches, 
which gives each tree an elliptical outline, is favourable to the 
development of fruiting branches ; the extremities are inarched 
into the leading shoot formed by the union of the branches of 
the third series. The next illustration is a variety of the pre- 
ceding arrangement, and a preferable one. It requires only 
palmettes of two series, and the sinuous form of the branches 
permits long pruning, and maintains the fruit-spurs regular. 
The leading shoots are crossed in lozenge form, and are grafted 




Self-supporting Espalier formed by Approach-Grafting. 

by approach at the top. This charming design, which is less 
complicated than it appears, is produced with regularity if the 
outline has been previously traced with switches fastened to 
the trellis. In the third illustration a palmette and two 
chandeliers are united and support each other mutually. The 
extremities of the branches of the horizontal palmette are 
inarched into the outer branches of the chandeliers. It is 
better not to graft the branches where they cross each other # 
A group like this should be grown in the open ground, and 
not against a wall. The figure (p. 61) represents a palmette- 



CO 



T1IE ART OF 



chandelier, of which the branches — following a regular curve, 
and grafted together at the ends — represent a target. In the 
centre, M. Forest has formed a letter by approach -grafting. 
A row of six such trees exhibits the name of M. Xallet. In 
designs of this kind we prefer that the letters should take 
the most prominent part, and not be merely accessory ; 
and thus we have formed the name of our establishment in 
one of our borders. Each pear-tree forms one letter, so that 
in case of damage, the injury can be more speedily repaired 
than in the case of a tree which forms several letters. The 




Combination of Palmetto and Chandelier trees by Approach-Grafting. 

different modes of grafting by approach are useful here. A 
similar design has been formed with peach-trees on a wall. 
The fruit gardens of M. Alexis Lepere, of jMoutreuil, and of 
others, contain handsome specimens of trees joined by ap- 
proach-grafting, and representing inscriptions or designs 
accurately completed, according to the method of M. F. Simon, 
an amateur at Crecy-en-Brie. The representation (p. 62) 
shows two halves of peach-trees trained in the form of 
double U> or a small four-branched chandelier, by means of 
their sub -division, the arms of which are united at their ex- 



GRAFTING AN"D BUDDING. 



61 



fcrc-mities by means of approach-grafting. We have also proved 
fche good effect of approach-grafting in forming winged pyra- 
mids, vases, harps, &c., either isolated or on trellises, in the 
fruit garden of 31. A. Mas, pomologist, of Bourg, and in the 
orchard of the Agricultural School, at Saulsaie (Ain),made by 
Yerrier. The single cordon (improperly termed horizontal on 
sloping grounds), which is especially adapted to the apple- 
tree, should have the trees which compose it grafted one upon 




Mode of forming Letters by Approach- G-raf ting. 

another. The end of each is cut with a sloping or splice cut 
and inarched or inserted under the bark of the next tree at the 
bend. A continuous even line of small trees is thus obtained. 
It may happen that from want of vigour, or in consequence of 
an accident, one tree cannot reach its neighbour. In such a 
case we have recourse to the method of lengthening or joining 
shown in the figures on p. 63, which was communicated 
to us in 1860 by M. Jules Eicaud. of Beaune. The subject (A) 



62 



THE ART OF 



not being long enough to reach its neighbour (B), we take a 
well grown branch (C), of the current year if we operate in 
August, and of the preceding year if we graft in April. The 
hase of this is cut with a double slope, and is introduced into 
the incision on A, which penetrates the alburnum, by the 




Union by Approach- Grafting of Trees trained in the form of double U. 

process of side cleft-grafting. The other extremity is cut 
with a notch in the part which will bear upon the other tree, 
in which a corresponding cutting is made. The parts, being 




Cordons united by Approach- Grafting. 

fitted into each other, are bandaged and covered with grafting- 
wax. The method of inarching might also be used here with 
equal advantage. 



GH1FTIXG AXD BUDDING. 




64 



TIIE ART OF 



We have remarked that in bilateral cordons, that is, when 
the stem divides right and left in the form of a T> the parts 
join easily enongh in grafting by approach or lengthening ; 
but as the sap meets in two opposing currents, the same 
uniformity of growth is not obtained as with the unilateral 
cordon. 

Use of Approach-Grafting for Increasing the size of Fru it. 
This application of grafting by approach is not very common,, 
as, in the first place, it demands some skill on the part of the 
operator, and, in the next, success does not always crown his 




Grafting to increase the size of the Pear, 
work. We have, however, more than once seen its successful 
results, and especially with M. G. Luizet, arboriculturist at 
E cully, who in 1856 exhibited some fine specimens at Lyons 
at the inauguration of the Pomological Congress. About the 
month of June a young herbaceous branch is grafted by 
approach on the stalk of a pear, and bandaged with a woollen 
thread, which must not be drawn too tightly. If the branch 
continues to grow Tigorously, the end of it is pinched ; if it 
has ceased to increase in length, it is left as it is. The 
object is to secure a greater flow of nourishment to the fruit. 



GRAFTING A2sD BUDDING. 



65 



When the fruit has come on the branchlet a feeding scion may 
be inarched npon the branchlet, in addition to the scion on 
the fruit-stalk. We have tried this with success. With 
fruits which have too short or too slender stalks, like the apple 
or peach, we must confine ourselves to grafting by ordinary 
approach, or inarching the herbaceous branch on the fruiting 




Grafting to increase the size of the Peach. 



branch as near as possible to where the fruit of the branch will 
grow. The bandages should be tied so as to be easily opened 
without cutting them. 

GRAFTING WITH DETACHED SCIONS. 

General Directions. 
The stock is a perfect plant, or almost so, for we sometimes 
use a branch- cutting or a piece of a root. It is grown either 
where it is to remain or in the nursery, or else it may be 
grown in a pot in order to be grafted under glass, with the air 
partially excluded. Perfect stocks are usually grafted where 
they are intended to remain ; sometimes in the case of graftings 
made during the repose of the sap, the stocks are taken up 

r 



66 



THE ART OF 



in order to graft them, and laid in a trench or under a shed. 
The scion is a branch or part of a branch, bearing at least one 
eye, and from two to six inches in length. The shorter 
scions are nsed in the case of kinds with closely-set buds or 
expensive varieties. In a cold climate they must be of 
a greater length. The scions may be taken from the parent 
plant, when the sap has gone to rest, for spring graftings ; 
they should be kept then in the shade of a building or tree, 
with the ends buried in fine sand. If they are not required to 
be used until the sap begins to flow, they should be kept 
entirely covered with sand in a cool cellar. Evergreen scions 
should not be detached from the parent tree until -immedi- 
ately before they are grafted, and the leaves should be left 
on them. Deciduous kinds grafted in summer should be cut 
from the parent within twenty-four hours before grafting, 
and their leaves at once cut off. It will matter little to the 
success of the operation whether the upper bud of the scion 
be a terminal or a lateral one. A shoot, if too long, may be 
shortened, and, if required, may furnish several scions. In 
order to facilitate the joining and cohesion of the two parts, 
the scion is more or less cut at the base in a sloping direction 
or splice cut. It should also be so placed on the stock that 
a bud of the latter may be on a level with the graft, either 
opposite to it or on one side, in order to draw the sap, and 
thereby promote the cohesion of the parts. The different 
sections of branch-grafting are side-grafting, crown-grafting, 
grafting de precision, cleft -grafting, English method, and 
mixed grafting. 

Section J. — Side- Grafting. 
The term side -grafting might be applied to a vast number 
of processes of grafting in which the head of the stock is 
not cut away. But we have limited the term to those cases 
in which the scion is inserted into the side of the stem, 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



67 



or on a branch of the stock, either between the bark and the 
alburnum, or into the albnrnnm itself, the bark in no case 
being removed, 

Side-Grafting under the Baric. — General Directions. 
When it is desired to graft a branch on the side of a stem 
and under the bark, the stock must be in a state of vegetation, 
and the operation is performed either in April or May, at the 
flow of the sap, when it is said to be done with a shooting 
bud ; or from July to September, when it is termed a graft 
with a dormant bud. In the first case (with a shooting bud), 
we use scions of the previous year, which have been laid in at 
the north side of a wall or in a cellar to preserve their vitality, 
and, the sap being in motion at the time they are used, the 
graft will develop itself in the course of the same year. In the 
second case (with a dormant bud), in which the graft will not 
develop itself until the year following, scions of the current 
year are used, cut on the day of grafting. If they are deci- 
duous kinds, the leaves are cut off. We have said before, that 
scions of evergreens should not be cut till the last moment, 
and are not to be stripped of their leaves. In both of these 
methods the tops of branches with a terminal bud form excel- 
lent scions. There are two systems of side-grafting under 
the bark, one in which the scion is simply a piece of a 
branch ; in the other, it is a branch cut from the parent, with 
a heel or strip attached to the base. 

Side-Grafting with a Simple Branch. 
This process is valuable for the restoration of defective trees, 
in supplying branches where they are wanting, and for grafting 
a new variety on aged subjects. It is equally of use in pro- 
pagating plants. The woody scion will answer better for 
insertion under old bark than the shield-bud commonly used. 

p 2 



63 



THE AET OP 



The scion in this case is a small branch, or a part of a branch 
from four to eight inches long, baring the lower part cut with 
a long splice-cut, the surface of which should be perfectly 
smooth, and cut thin to the bark at the point B. If it is de- 
sired to have a branch forming a wide angle with the stem of 
the stock, a bent or curved scion is selected ; the convex part 
is cut and placed against the stock, while the top turned 
outwards will give the required inclination to the limb. With 
a perfectly straight scion one can contrive to have a shoot on 




Side -Grafting with a Simple Branch. 

the side opposite the cutting on the face which is united to the 
stock ; this shoot, when developed, will form a branch almost 
perpendicular to the stem. In propagating certain trees, such 
as the beech, branched scions, two or three years old, are used, 
cut as we have described, with a splice cutting, rather thin 
towards the point. The scion having been prepared, we make 
on the stock two incisions forming a T through the bark, not 
penetrating the alburnum (C). The bark is then raised with 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



69 



the spatula, and the scion slipped nnder it, so that the top of 
the splice-cat may be on a level with the transverse incision 
in the stock. It is then bandaged, and the air exclnded from 
the cuttings by the application of grafting-clay or wax. 
Instead of a T incision, we might employ a plain bull's-eye 
opening into which the scion is slipped, or it would be 
equally easy to insert the scion under the bark by a sort of 
veneering. 




Grafting with a Based Branch. 



Grafting with a Based Branch. 
We have recourse to this method for the propagation of 
some plants, more especially the variegated maple. Tho 
proper season for this is in August or September, with a 
dormant bud. A short branch (X) is selected tor the scion. 
Anticipative branches are also serviceable. The little branch 



70 



THE ART OF 



is detached with the grafting-knife from the branch on which 
it grows, but so as to preserve a strip of bark (Y) above and 
below the insertion of the branch ; the manner in which this 
is done has been already described. The woody fibres under 
the strip of bark (V) should not be removed; it would be 
dangerous to do so, and the surface should be merely smoothed 
down with the grafting -knife. On the stock (Y) a T-shaped 
incision (Z) is made, which goes no deeper than the bark ; the 
lips of this are raised with the spatula and the heel (Y) of the- 
scion slipped under them. It is then bandaged with woollen 
thread or bast matting, like an ordinary shield-bud or a short 
branch-graft. It will be unnecessary to apply grafting-wax* 
In the restoration of fruit-trees, we have sometimes employed, 
under the name of scions, branches 20 inches long, with a 
heel 4 inches in length. By cutting off their leaves a week 
beforehand, and while they are still on the parent -tree,, 
they are prepared for the separation. Covering them with 
grafting- clay as soon as they are grafted will prevent their 
drying up. 

Treatment after Side-Grafting under the Bark. 
In grafting with a dormant eye, with a view to propagation, 
the particular treatment will consist in heading down the- 
stock, after winter, to four inches above the graft, and immedi- 
ately tying up the top of the woody scion quite erect, in order 
to avoid a knee or bend at the graft. The first process (with 
a simple branch) when employed for purposes of restoration, 
does not require the amputation of the stock ; but, in order to- 
hasten the development of the graft, a notch is cut in the- 
stock, about a quarter of an inch above the graft, in spring. 
The notch, in form of a crescent, about half an inch broad, is 
made with two cuts of the pruning-knife in the bark. An 
example of a similar operation has already been given. At 



GEAFTIXG- AXD BUDDING. 71 

the same time the branches above the graft are pruned short. 
A thin stake is indispensable for fastening np the youno- 
graft. When the grafting is made with a shooting bud, at 
the flow of the sap, the scion should be covered with grafting- 
clay, to preserve it from the sun and the scorching winds. 
If, notwithstanding its speedy vegetation, it exhibits a 
tendency to remain puny, its growth may be accelerated by 
making small longitudinal incisions (A, A, A). By cutting the 
bark, the sap is induced to flow more freely under the dilated 
surface, and causes the branch to increase in thickness. 




Incisions in a branch to increase its thickness. 

Side-Chrtfting in the Alburnum. — General Directions. 
This method is more specially adapted for evergreens; 
therefore it is more frequently adopted for grafting under 
glass, the season for which is in February and in August. 
If the same kinds are to be grafted in the open air, that should 
be done in April and in August. For evergreen scions, a 
branch of medium size, and furnished with a terminal bud, is 
to be preferred. It is to be cut from the tree at the moment 
of using it: none of the leaves are to be removed, except 



72 THE ART OF 

those at the base ; and, to keep it fresh, it should be placed in 
the shade with the end in a vessel of water or in sand. The 
stock is not headed down, and the leaves on the part destined 




Side- Grafting with a Vertical Cleft. 



to receive the scion are cut off at the stalk or in the middle 
In order to insert the scion into the alburnum of the stock, 
the bark and outside layers of alburnum are removed, 



GBAFTING AND BUDDING. 



73 



directing the blade of the knife from above downwards, 
taking care not to penetrate to the pith. The scion is cut 
thin on both sides, if it is to be inserted at the top of the 
cleft, and cut in a wedge-shape if inserted hi the side of the 
incision. Hence arise the following two sub-divisions : — 

Side- Grafting with a Vertical Cleft. 
The camellia scion A (p. 72) is cut for the half of its length on 
both sides (a), leaving on each side a strip of bark of equal 
width, and tapering gradually to the point. The stock (B) is 
cut, as at ~b, with one stroke of the grafting-knife, allowing the 
blade to penetrate as far as the alburnum. The scion (A) is 
introduced by its base {a) } and then bandaged, as shown at C. 
Should the grafting be done in the open air, grafting- wax 
should be applied on both sides of the cleft, so as to fill any 
vacancies that may occur. "With the camellia, and other hard- 
wooded shrubs, the stock is maintained entire at the time of 
grafting ; but the aucuba, the tissues of which are less dense, 
is cut down to within 4 or 8 inches above the graft at the time 
of the operation. 

Side-Grafting ivith an Ohliqiie Cleft. 
The scion E (p. 74) is the top of a branch of holly. The lower 
part of it is represented at B with a sloping cut (C) on both sides 
and with the back of the slant much longer on the outside. 
An oblique incision (D) is made in the stock (A) by cutting 
through the bark and alburnum in a slanting direction with 
reference to the axis of the stock. The scion will thus be 
inclined at an angle, and its leaves will not be embarrassed by 
the stock. It may also be placed in an upright position by 
giving an oblique direction to the sloping cut. It should be 
bandaged with some elastic material. Some conifers are best 
grafted with the oblique incision; the wound does not enlarge 
so much as in the case of the vertical incision, and a slender 



74 



THE ART OP 



scion is more securely fixed in it. To the group of side- 
grafting we might add the method termed gimlet -grafting, in 
which a gimlet or drill is used to pierce an oblique hole from 
above downwards through the bark and alburnum without 
reaching the pith. The mouth of the hole is smoothed, and 
the end of the graft is cut round and pointed, so as to fit it pro- 
perly. This method is seldom used; it should only be 
employed on old stocks, which do not exude gum, and when 
it is required to supply a branch to a very bare stem. 



Treatment after Side-Grafting in the Alburnum. 
If the grafting has taken place in the month of April, the 
head of the stock should be gradually cut away, as soon as- 
the cohesion of the parts seems to be assured, continuing 
the operation in proportion to the development of the graft- 
But if the grafting has occurred in autumn, the stock is cut, 
after winter, to within 4 cr 6 inches of the graft, preserving 
on the heel the principal leaves and small branches, which 




Side-Grafting with an oblique cleft. 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



75 



will be removed afterwards when the graft has developed its 
shoots. The heel, which serves at first as a prop for the young 
shoot, is to be cut off level with the graft, as soon as the 
young shoot shall have acquired sufficient strength to main- 
tain itself. 

Group II. — Oroivn-Grajiing. — General Directions. 

This method is suitable to a large number of trees and 
shrubs of various kinds. It is practised in spring, as soon 
as the bark is easily separated from the alburnum, but the 
precaution should be observed of preparing the stocks 
beforehand, and heading them down three or four weeks 
before grafting takes place. Formerly this operation was 
very often performed in autumn, several months before the 
usual time of grafting. When inserting the scions, the cuts, 
which have been more or less cicatrised, should be freshened 
with the pruning-knife. The scion branches are cut during 
winter, before the sap begins to flow, and placed in soil or 
sand, either in a cellar or at the north side of a wall, in a 
vertical or a horizontal position, and either half or entirely 
buried; the essential point is to keep them from vegetating, 
and to see that the bark does not dry up. The scions are 
pieces of branches from two to five inches long. The upper 
half should have two or three eyes; the lower half is cut 
with a flat sloping splice-cut, which should begin opposite to 
an eye, and end in a thin point. It should be so cut as to 
contain no pith, which would rather interfere with the process 
of cohesion, and on the whole should be of no great thickness. 
A small notch or shoulder cut in the upper part will serve 
to rest the scion better on the- stock. 

The scion is inserted into the top of the stock between the 
bark and the wood, the point being generally cut on both sides 
to facilitate its entrance ; some operators, however, content 



76 



THE ART OF 



themselves with moistening the point with their lips. A 
small implement of wood or ivory is usually employed in 
preparing a place for the insertion of the scion. It has a long 
sloping point, which is introduced between the bark and the 
alburnum, and on being withdrawn the end of the scion is 
slipped into the opening. "When this precaution is taken, 




A Crown-Graft completed. 



there is no fear of breaking slender scions nor of bursting 
the bark; however, the simple pressure of the hand will 
often suffice to fix the scion under the bark without previously 
raising it. The introduction of the scion is in most cases 
facilitated by the circulation of the sap which separates the 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



bark from the alburnum. However, it may happen that scions 
of large size will threaten to burst the tissues ; in that case 
the best thing to do is to make a longitudinal cut in the bark 
with the grafting-knife at the moment of inserting the scion. 
The thicker the stock is, the greater the number of scions 
which may be placed upon it ; however, to render the cohesion 
more complete, there should be a distance between them of at 
least two inches. A bandage, which should not be too tight, 
nor compress the bark too much, is necessary after the 
insertion of the scions. Grafting-wax is applied to the cuts, 
and to the bark of the stock where it covers the scions, in 
order to prevent rents. The adhering of the wax is facilitated 
by wiping off the sap which oozes from the cuts. Our 
illustration represents the head of a stock (which has been 
grafted, either by crown-grafting, or cleft -grafting, or inlaying, 
or veneering) bandaged and covered with grafting-wax. The 
wax is spread over the cut (A) on the head of the stock, 
where a branch has been removed (E), where the scion and 
stock are joined (I), and on the top of the shortened scion 
(0). The terminal bud (U) is not covered, nor the bud (Y) 
imbedded in the incision. Crown-grafting is, so to speak, 
indispensable in the case of large trees, on which a great 
number of scions may be grafted, in consideration of the 
amount of nourishment furnished by the roots. 

Ordinary Croivn-Grvafting. 

In the stock (B) we insert three scions (c, c f , c"), which are as 
many as its diameter will allow of. It would be rather difficult 
to insert more without bursting the bark in at least one place 
by the increased tension. In the present case, that mischance 
is prevented by making a longitudinal incision (D), which not 
only facilitates the insertion of the scion c', but also allows the 
others (c and c") to be easily introduced without any danger of 



73 



THE ART OP 



bursting the bark of the stock. When a stock is grafted close 
to the ground, it will be no harm to earth it up as far as the 
upper buds of the graft. This will secure it from being dried up ; 
and in certain kinds new roots will be formed on the incisions, 
which will promote rapidity of growth. It is not absolutely 
necessary to select scions of the current year's growth. Wood 
two years old, but fresh, has an equal chance of success, on the 
condition, be it understood, that it is furnished with eyes 
capable of being developed. In the case of old trees, there 



need be no hesitation in selecting mixed scions, two years old 
in the part which is to be united to the stock, and one year old 
in the = upper part which is to make the growth. The American 
Gleditschia, on which G. Bujotii and other kinds are grafted, 
requires to be treated in this way. Thus, the scion A (p. 79) is a 
branch two years old, bearing two shoots of the current year 
cut down to the length of an inch or so. A sloping cut (a) is 
made in the old wood, of which a section is given at a. It is 




Ordinary Crown- Grafting. 



GKATirS'G AND BUDDING. 



7C< 



then placed on the stock (B), in which a simple incision (h) has 
been made. It will be necessary to raise the bark witn She 
spatula of the grafting-knife, or some such implement, in con- 
sequence of the size of the scion and the want of elasticity in 
the bark of the Gleditschia. 

Improved Croum-Grafting. 
This method differs from the preceding in two essential 




Crown-Grafting with a Scion two years old: 



points : — 1. The stock A (p. 80) being cut obliquely (as at B), the 
scion (F) is inserted on the top, with a tongue cut at an acute 
angle, and which fits accurately on the slope of the stock. 
2. An incision must be made in the stock, and the bark raised 
with the spatula on one side only (C). The scion is then 
slipped in, so that the fresh cut on the inside may come into 
contact with the alburnum (E)and the bark (G) be covered by 



80 



THE ART OF 



the lip (C). The chances of success are increased by removing 
a small strip of bark (I) on the side of the scion, corresponding 
to the bark (D) of the stock, which will cover it. At J the 
■work is shown completed before the application of the bandage 
and the grafting-wax. The section (B) of the stock exhibits 
the lip or portion of bark (C), which is raised from the wood* 
and the portion (D) which is not raised. These little altera- 
tions, which have been suggested by reflection and practice, 
and which are susceptible of great variation, have for their 




Improved Crown- Grafting. 

object the multiplication of points of contact in order to 
accelerate the cohesion of the graft. Professor Du Breuil has 
invented several of these improvements, and recommends 
them hi his works. In the department of Isere, where graft* 
ing the walnut is more practised than anywhere else, M. Chaix, 
of Biviers, has for a long time used the modified method of 
crown-grafting which we have just described. He cuts the 
stock in a sloping direction, so that the oozing sap may 
not obstruct the cohesion of the graft. An angular notch 
is made in the scion, which fits on the top of the stock, and the 



GRAFTING A3D BUDDING. 



81 



face of the longitudinal cut is made even to correspond "with 
the surface of the stock where the bark is raised. The bark, it 
may be observed, is raised on one side only. In order to pre- 
serve the graft from the effects of heat and cold, he covers the 
cuts with clay, and then surrounds the graft with a band of 
bark 4 inches wide. In this way he operates on stocks thirty 
years old, and vouches for the success of the method. 

Treatment after Crown-Grafting. 
This is limited to — 1. Keeping an eye on the bandage 
loosening it if it becomes too tight, and renewing it if the 
cohesion is not perfect. 2. Tying up the young shoots on 
rods or on a stake taller than the graft. 3. Eemoving any 
shoots or buds that may appear on the stock. 

Group III. — Grafting de Precision. 
Grafting de precision, or precise grafting, implies that the 
stock and scion are so accurately prepared and fitted to each 
other, that when they are put together they will coincide 
perfectly, without using any force, and without leaving any 
vacuum. The rigorous exactness which the operation demands, 
has led to the invention of special implements, such as the 
combined grafting knife and the metro-greffe. Spring is the 
proper season for precise grafting. It succeeds also in 
summer, if care is taken to select the woody part of young 
branches for scions, to shade them, and keep them from, 
getting dried. Towards the end of summer, when the flow 
of the sap is diminishing, this method may also be employed, 
observing that the sap should be sufficiently active to produce 
immediate cohesion, but not so active as to cause an autumnal 
development of the buds. Experience accustoms one to 
perceive the moment when the sap begins to thicken, when 
the functions of the leaves are at an end. Under this new 

Gr 



82 



THE AET OP 



title of "precise grafting," we class veneer-grafting and 
grafting by inlaying. 

Veneer -Grafting. — General Directions. 
This method is principally employed in grafting certain 
trees and evergreen shrubs, and for grafting under glass 
with the air excluded. Nurserymen and florists practise it in 
the open air or in the propagating house, in spring rather than 
in autumn, especially in the case of evergreens. A stock with 
the sap in a condition of moderate activity and a well-ripened 
scion are the two first essentials. The scion may be a shoot 
of the current year or of the preceding one, according as the 
grafting takes place in the autumn or in the spring. Its 
length varies from 2 to 6 inches, and it must be cut with a 
flat splice-cut without the least unevenness, in order to fit 
the stock exactly. ■ If it is evergreen, the leaves are not 
removed, and it is not cut from the parent-tree until imme- 
diately before it is fixed. The metro-greffe here comes into 
requisition ; with its help a cut is made in the stock the exact 
size of the splice-cut on the scion. Nothing then will obstruct 
the union of wood and bark. The two parts are put together 
without cleft or insertion, by simply applying the scion to the 
top or the side of the stock, under the bark, or with the bark 
removed, employing either one scion or several. Such are the 
various modes of branch veneer- grafting. "We shall proceed 
to treat of them in detail, without speaking of veneer bud- 
grafting, which is described in the chapter on bud-grafting, 
as we are now engaged with the subject of grafting with 
detached branches only. 

Ordinary Veneer-Grafting. 
By this method a scion is brought into contact with the 
first layer of alburnum in the stock. The stock is not to be 
headed down beforehand. In the case of an evergreen, the 



GRATTIN'G A2s~D EUDDLN'G. 



83 



leaves on the part destined to receive the scion are cnt off at 
the stalk or in the middle ; the scion also shonld not be cnt 
from the parent-tree more than a day before it is nsed, and its 
leaves shonld not be removed. The scion having been cnt 
with a straight, longitudinal section, its diameter is taken with 
the metro-greffe, which is then applied to the stock (B), and 



the dimensions of the section of the scion are traced with it. 
Nothing more remains to be done bnt to cnt away the part 
between the two marks, to correspond exactly with the section 
of the scion, so that they may fit, as at D. First remove the 
bark, and, if that is not sufficient, cnt the first layers of the 
alburnum (C). Instead of a metro-greffe, a grafting-knife or a 
common priming-knife may be used. Place the scion against 




Ordinary Veneer-Grafting (Rhododendron). 



G 2 



84 



THE AET OF 



the stock, and with the point of the knife mark out the out- 
line of the section, and then cut away the bark and woody 
layers. The scion is fitted to it from time to time until the 
parts are accurately adjusted. A bandage of either woollen or 
cotton thread, closely wound on, is indispensable. Grafting- 
wax is not always necessary. Instead of a flat section on the 
stock and the scion, notches or tongues may be cut, which will 
fit into each other. This is the English method. 

Veneer Crown- Grafting. 
The scion is not cut with a sloping or splice cut. A notch 
at the top of the cut (B), such as is made in ordinary crown- 
graftiug, will be useful to set the scion square on the stock (C), 
"With the metro-greffe the diameter of the cut (B) is marked 
out at d, d, d, d, successively, where the scions are to be 
applied. As the double spatula has cutting edges, the bark 
will be divided ; it is then removed, and the scions placed as 
shown at E. The application of the bandage and wax is 
indispensable. The bark only should be removed ; the albur- 
num is not cut. A large tree is more easily grafted than a 
small one, because the latter presents a rather convex sur- 
face, and would necessitate the cutting of the alburnuni in 
order to fit the scion in properly. With an old tree, the 
cortical layers of which are thick, the shifting of the scion 
under the bandage is to be apprehended. The way to remedy 
this is by leaving the cut part of the scion rather thick, or 
better still, by placing an intermediate substance between the 
bark of the scion and the bandage, for instance, the strip of 
bark which has been removed from the stock. These strips 
of bark may be turned down without removing them, and 
afterwards brought up on the backs of the scions before the 
bandage is applied. The two seasons suitable for this mode 
of grafting are March and April, when the sap begins to flow, 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



85 



and September and October, just before it goes to rest. The 
treatment after grafting is the same as that which we have 
indicated in the case of ordinary crown- grafting. A grafter 
in our establishment, Louis Asselin, invented this method, but 
the process is so simple and reasonable that other practi- 
tioners must have tried it before him. 



A 




Veneer Crown- Grafting. 

Veneering with Strips. 
M. Trouillet, arboriculturist at Montreuil, communicated to 
us this mode of grafting. It has some resemblance to " side- 
grafting with a simple branch." We employ them both with 
equal success in restoring trees which have lost their branches. 
The proper seasons for operating by this method are in April 
with a shooting bud, and in August with a dormant bud. 
With the inetro-greffe we cut the scion, on its rounded face, in 
a duck's-bill section. We measure the diameter of this, and 



86 



I HE ART OP 



applying the implement to the stock (X), we cut the bark with 
the double spatula ; then with the grafting -knife cutting 
across at the top of the two lines, we bend back the strip (X), 
fix the scion (V) in its place, and bring up the strip upon it, 
as shown at (Y). It is then bandaged, and grafting-wax 
applied to the crevices. In operating on strong or much- 




Veneering with Strips, 



branched trees, it is wise to cut notches (Z, Z), half an inch or 
so above the grafts. These, by arresting the flow of the sap, 
will divert it towards the new shoots. 

'Treatment after Veneer-Grafting. 
As the bandage is indispensable, the first care will be to 
prevent it becoming too tight, and it will require to be well 



SEAITDsGr AXD BTJDDIXG. 



87 



looked after. Soon after spring grafting, the stocks which 
have been side-grafted are headed down by degrees, leaving 
them at last a heel of four inches in length. With subjects 
grafted in the end of summer, the heading down of the stock 
is completed after winter. The heel serves for fastening up 
the scion in the early stages of its development. It is removed 
after a year's growth. If the object be to produce a lateral 
branch, the development of the scion is promoted by a 
notch (Z) made over the place of its insertion, and by cutting 
away the branches growing above it. A stake or prop is 
useful to fasten the young graft to. 

Grafting by Inlaying. — General Directions. 
Formerly known under the name of grafting a la Pontoise, 
this method was employed specially for the propagation of the 
orange-tree and certain shrubs ; at the present day it is applied 
to a greater number of plants. The establishment of Simon- 
Louis, at Metz,has extended its use to almost all kinds of trees 
and shrubs. The principle of the operation is to inlay the 
scion, which is cut with a triangular face, in the stock so as to 
thoroughly exclude the air. The proper seasons are in spring 
when the sap begins to flow (although one may also graft in 
summer, using semi-herbaceous scions), and in August and 
September with woody scions. The time to be preferred is 
about the end of March and in April. The stock is prepared 
beforehand, or at the time of grafting, so that the scion maybe 
placed on a fresh cut. For spring grafting, the scion-branches 
are cut in winter and kept in soil or sand in a shady place. It 
will also ans ver to cut them from the parent tree a few days 
before grafting. In summer grafting they should not be cut 
until immediately before they are wanted. The scion, which 
.should have two or three eyes, is cut at the lower part with a 
wedge -like or triangular face, and is inlaid upon the stock in 



83 



THE ART OF 



an angular groove, corresponding to the triangular face of the 
scion. It is then bandaged, and the cuts are covered with 
grafting-wax. The preliminary operations are performed with 
a fine-edged pruning-knife and the ordinary grafting-knife ; 
but greater rapidity and precision are secured by the use of 
the combined grafting-knife. Both ends of the tool are 




Inlaying with the combined Grafting-knife. 

sharpened and set at the same angle, which gives a mathema- 
tical accuracy to the operation. It is immaterial whether the 
angle be rectilineal or curvilineal; the essential point is that it 
be identical in both parts of the implement. With common 
tools a groove with a blunt or square outline is often made ; or 
it may have the contour of a trapezium, or any other figure ; 
the only really important thing being that the scion be cut to 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



89 



fit it accurately. Grafting by inlaying is performed on the 
crown of an amputated stock, and sometimes on the side of a 
stock not amputated. 

Or mvn- Grafting by Inlaying. 
Suppose first that we have not got a combined grafting- 
knife. The scion (L) is cut with a triangular face (n) } o£ 

L 




Crown- Grafting by Inlaying. 



which a section is given at n'. The notch (_£>) will serve as a 
shoulder to rest the scion on the head of the stock. The 
scion is then placed with the back of the triangular face 
against the stock QI), and the outline of it marked with the 
blade of a knife. The bark and wood are then cut away so 
as to form a wedge-shaped groove (r). The scion (L) is then 



90 



THE AET OF 



inlaid in the groove made in the stock (M) as shown at O. 
The operation is completed by applying the bandage and 
grafting-wax. It may be easily understood that the nse of 
the combined grafting-knife will save all delay and uncer- 
tainty; and when a little dexterity is acquired in handling 
it, the operation of inlaying can be performed with great 
rapidity. 

Side-Grafting by Inlaying. 
This method is not so much employed as the preceding, 
because veneering, which resembles it very much, is far 
easier. Branches with knees or curves may be inlaid on a 
straight stem in the same way as a straight scion is grafted 
on a bent stem. Thus inlaid, the scion will possess greater 
firmness than if attached by veneering, especially if the 
stem of the stock be so rugged as to render the adjustment 
of the parts difficult. 

Treatment after Inlaying. 
Should the scion be insufficiently secured on the stock, it 
should be bandaged firmly, using a broad rather than a narrow 
bandage, as less likely to become too tight. The immediate 
and continuous employment of a prop or stake, to which the 
graft is fastened, should not be neglected. Unless they are 
specially required, the pinching of the young shoots of the 
graft will accelerate the cohesion of the parts, as thereby a 
smaller surface is exposed to the action of high winds. In 
other respects, the treatment will be similar to that which 
we have directed in the case of ordinary side-grafting. 

Group IV. — Cleft-Grafting. — General Directions. 
This method is employed for propagating the greater part 
of woody deciduous trees and plants. The scion is a portion 
of a branch furnished with one eye or several. For a young 



GRAFTING AXD BUDDING. 



91 



stock a short scion is to be preferred. If the stock is a large 
tree, in a cold but rich soil, and in a damp climate, scions with 
four or five eyes are preferable to shorter ones ; while, on the 
other hand, in poor soil, and in a warm dry climate, short ones 
are best. Let us take a medium-sized one, with two or three buds 
and 3 or 4 inches in length. In preparing it, we cut the lower 
part on two sides, so as almost to resemble two sides of a 
triangle. We say almost as the two sides do not meet in a 
sharp edge until near the point ; a strip of bark being often 
left, which gradually widens from the point to the top of the 
cutting. Opposite this edge is the back of the cutting 
(which is not touched with the knife), commencing imme- 
diately under an eye, and ending in a point at the lower 



extremity of the scion. In some cases we shall see that we 
can continue to have a bud on the back of the cutting ; and in 
some modes of cleft-grafting the scion is cut with an even 
face on both sides, instead of being wedge-shaped or triangular 
in form. "When it is desired to set tfie scion evenly on the 
stock, a small horizontal or oblique notch is cut on each side 
at the top of the sloping cut. The preparation of the scion is 
effected more easily by holding it extended along the forefinger 
of the left hand. With the grafting-knife in the right hand, 
it is cut and smoothed down on both sides; the least 
inequality or roughness would be an obstacle to its perfect 
coincidence with the stock ; the point should be slightly 




Preparation of the Cleft -Graft. 



92 



THE ART OP 



blunted, in order to facilitate its slipping in smoothly. We may 
remark, as a useful hint to beginners, that the operator has 
more power and command of his implement if he keeps his 
elbows close to his sides. "Whether the stock be entire or 
provisionally headed down, it is finally cut at the moment of 
the operation at the place destined to receive the graft, in 
order that the grafting may be performed on a freshly-cut 
surface. When the saw or the secateur is used for this pur- 
pose, the cut is smoothed down with the pruning-knife, so 
as to remove all inequalities from the surface. If the stem is 
of medium thickness, not more than one graft is made on it, 
and the cut is made in a slightly oblique direction ; but if the 
strength of the stock requires several grafts, then the cut is 



made horizontally (for crown or cleft -grafting). Clef fc-graf ting 
is effected with one or several scions ; the various processes 
consist in employing them either when woody or herbaceous — 
in spring, summer, or autumn — on the body of the tree, on the 
top, or at the angle of the branches. 

Ordinary Cleft- Grafting. — With a Single Scion. 
We have at our disposal a stock (A) of medium size. We 
cut it obliquely at B, the top (C) of the cut being smoothed 
horizontally ; then inserting the point of the pruning-knife, 




B 



Ordinary Cleft- Grafting with a Single Scion. 



GKAJTDsG AND BUDDDsG* 



93 



or the blade of the grafting-knife, we move it gently back- 
wards and forwards, pressing on it moderately, until a vertical 
cleft (D) is made about the depth of the slanting cut of the 
scion. The skill of the grafter is displayed in not splitting 
the stock right across. Care should be taken that the bark 
and the first alburnum layers of the stock be divided in the 
same line as the cleft, and with a clean cut ; if they should be 
divided irregularly, no attempt should be made to smooth 




Insertion of the Scion in Cleft-Grafting. 



down or remove the irregularities of the fracture. "When the 
cleft is about two-thirds completed, we take the scion (E) in 
our other hand and insert it in the upper part of the orifice, 
pushing it downwards as the incision opens. The implement 
is withdrawn when the incision has proceeded so far that the 
scion can be finally lodged in its position by a push of the 
hand. The sloping cut (F) of the scion is so placed at G that 



94 



THE ART OP 



its bark may coincide with that of the stock without pro- 
jecting or leaving much of a cavity on the inside if possible. 
If the stock has a thick bark, we shonld slightly incline the 
scion inwards in the cleft, so that the layers of bark and 
alburnum of both stock and scion may inevitably find some 
point of contact ; for the union is effected by the contact of 
the generative layers of both parts, and not of the external 
layers of the bark. Mastic is necessary; bandaging not so 
much so. 

With Two Scions. 
The stock (A), being larger, will take two scions. The 




Cleft- Grafting with two Scions. 

cut (B) is horizontal, and we split the stock right across at C. 
In order to do this, we place the blade of the pruning-knife 
or the grafting-chisel perpendicularly on the top of the stock, 
and press upon it with both hands. If the wood is tough, we 
must make use of a mallet. The scions are placed one by one 
in the mouth, or in a vessel containing damp moss. When 
the cleft is two-thirds completed, we withdraw the implement 
to one side, so as to keep the incision always half-open. "We 
place one scion at the other side, and using the implement or 
the handle of the mallet as a lever, open the incision so as to 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



95 



let in the scion completely. The insertion of the other scion 
is not more difficult ; perhaps it will be necessary to introduce 
the blade of the implement into the cleft (C) at the centre of 
the cut, and open it a little, to facilitate the admission of the 
second scion. If the pressure of the implement should be 
disagreeable, a little wedge of box-wood might be temporarily 



A 




Cleft-Grafting with an Inserted Bud. 



introduced into the middle of the cleft (0). This would permit 
us to insert both scions easily, without enlarging the cleft. 
Bandaging and mastic are necessary. 

Cleft-Grafting with an Inserted Bud. 
When more than two scions are to be employed, two parallel 
clefts are -to be made, so as to leave the pith in the centre 



96 



THE ART OP 



untouched. A scion may then be inserted in each of the 
clefts. This might be termed double cleft-grafting, but the 
method of oblique cleft-grafting is to be preferred. This 
mode of grafting is based on the preparation of the scion. In 
cutting the scion (A) in the manner of the section [of), we 
contrive to have on the back of the cut part (a) a bud (b), 




Cleft-Grafting with a Single Bud. 



which will be inserted in the cleft (c) of the stock (B), as 
represented at 0. From this will spring a vigorous scion, on 
which the wind will have no effect. It may be tied up against 
the upper part of the graft. Bandage and apply mastic. Our 
next illustration shows a scion (A), furnished with a single 
bud (a), which will be inserted in the cleft of the stock. At b 
is seen a section of the cut part of the scion ; at B the cleft 
in the stock ; and at C the scion finally inserted. Nothing 



GEAPTINGr AND BUDDING. 



97 



farther remains to be done except to apply the mastic, taking 
care not to rub off or injure the bud (a). According to the 
manner in which the end of the scion is cut, the bud (a) may 
be placed level with the top of the stock, as shown at C, or 
lower down, as at C in the preceding illustration. The inci' 
sion (B) in the stock shows that this process is equally appli- 
cable to grafting by inlaying. By this method valuable scions 
may be multiplied, since as many grafts may be formed as 
there are buds. 

Oblique Cleft-Grafting. 
Looking to its future development, a stock that is already 
pretty strong may be furnished with more than two grafts ; 




Section of the Stock. 



but as we can place only two in one transverse cleft, we should 
have to make other clefts across the centre, the result of 
which would be to enfeeble the stock. To avoid this we can 
employ a method which will leave intact the heart of the tree, 
and at the same time allow us to augment the number of 
the grafts. The stock having been sawn across and smoothed 
down with the pruning-knife, we make several clefts at the 
side (a, a, a), which, to speak geometrically, are, with reference 
to the section of the cutting, chords in the circle, and not 
radii or diameters. In order that the scion (L) may be 
adapted to the incision in the stock, it must be cut obliquely, 

II 



98 



THE ART OF 



so that while only one of the sides (M) slants towards the 
centre, the other (N) will only have the bark removed as far 
as the albnrnnm. In the other methods of ordinary cleft- 
grafting, those scions which have too much pith may always 
be cut in this way ; in that case the stock is cleft obliquely, 
and not diametrically, in order to spare the central part. 

Seasons for Ordinary and OlAiqiie Cleft-Grafting. 
The principal seasons for cleft -grafting are spring and the 




Mode of Cutting the Scion for Oblique Cleft-Grafting. 

end of summer. In the south of France, where the winters 
are very mild, it is practised with success from the month of 
December. Towards the north they seldom commence before 
March or April. In those districts where growth is prolonged, 
the summer-grafting is very often done in the autumn. Thus 



■GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



99 



there are two distinct seasons, known in practice under the 
names of spring grafting and autumn grafting. 

Spring Grafting. 
March and April are the usual times for the first cleft- 
grafting. In warm countries it may begin earlier, as it may 
in the case of subjects of very early growth. The scion- 
branches, cut beforehand, are to be placed in soil, or in a 
vessel full of sand, and deposited at the north side of a 
building, or in the shade of a tree or bush. They may also be 
removed from the parent-tree at the time of grafting, provided 
the sap has not yet begun to flow in them. The stock should 
be headed down on the day of grafting. When this is done 
sooner, the cut has to be renewed, in order that the scions may 
be inserted upon a healthy and fresh surface. If there is any 
difference in the state of the sap of the two parts, the scion 
should not be so advanced as the stock. After grafting, should 
there be a continuance of great heat, the graft must be covered 
with moss, or a piece of paper twisted into a cap placed over 
and fastened to the stock. 

Autumn Grafting. 
Cleft -grafting in autumn or the end of summer is performed 
in the same way as in spring. Nothing is changed but the 
season. This period comprises the months of August, Sep- 
tember, and October ; but the moment should be seized 
ivhen the sap is on the decline, the branches of the stock 
well ripened, the buds well formed, and the leaves, although 
still adhering, ready to fail. If grafted too soon, the scion 
might sprout, and this precocity in the end of the season 
would be fatal to it in winter, as it would be more exposed 
to the cold than if it had remained dormant. On the other 
hand, if grafted too late, the scion could no longer unite 
with the stock, on account of the disappearance of tho 

h2 



100 



THE AET Or 



cambium, and when spring arrives it would be found to be 
withered. So we cannot lay down an invariable rule for the 
time proper for each species or variety ; the condition of 
growth is the point on which success chiefly depends. Two 
neighbouring subjects of a similar species may demand a 
difference of three weeks in their autumn grafting. In this 
matter use is the best guide. Among the subjects grafted in 
autumn, the plum, and especially the wild cherry, are the 
better of it in this respect, that, their development in the 
following April being much earlier than if grafted in spring, 
they will have less to fear from the vicissitudes of the weather 
and the attacks of insects. The scions should be cut just 
before being used, stripped of their leaves at once, and have 
their ends placed in a vessel of water or in cool sand. In 
autumn grafting, cold mastics have this drawback, that their 
unctuousness suffers from the action of the frost, which 
penetrates to the tissues of the grafts. A warm com- 
position which hardens at once should therefore be employed. 
However, a mastic which is too easily softened, or which does 
not harden sufficiently, can always be covered so as to protect 
it from the frost. 

TERMINAL CLEFT-GRAFTING. 

The modes of cleft -grafting which have been described are 
only terminal in a certain sense. In those which follow, the 
grafts are more especially applied to the top of a stock not 
headed down, and are inserted with a terminal eye. 

Terminal Woody Grafting. 

The season for performing this operation is in spring, 
before the flow of the sap. We have employed this method 
with the walnut-tree and the fir. 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



101 



Terminal Grafting of the Walnut-tree. 
The scion (A) is cut with a regular double slope (a) ; the 
stock (B) is cleft in the middle of its terminal bud, mode- 
rately, so that the introduction of the scion may complete it. 




Terminal Grafting -of the Walnut-Tree. 



The stock and scion are then bound firmly together with a 
bandage at the top and bottom of the cleft, and the tying is 
allowed to remain until the scion begins to sprout. At this 



102 



THE AUT OP 



period, the shoots of the stock are to be pinched, but not cut 
off altogether. They will continue to draw the sap towards 
the graft. This kind of grafting has succeeded better with 
us under glass than in the open air ; however, we have 
thought it better to mention it, as it has succeeded with 
the air excluded, and also because it may be tried on other 
plants. 

Terminal Grafting of the Pine. 

The varieties of the pine, Piceas, Abies, &c, of which the 
stem increases every year by a whorl of branches and a 
leading shoot not branched, may be propagated by means of 
this method, which is practised in the open air in April and 
May, when the buds of the pine begin to swell. The scion 
(A), taken from the top of a branch, is a shoot of the pre- 
ceding year crowned with its terminal buds. It is cut on 
both sides in a slightly slanting direction, as at a, and 
introduced into the top of the shoot (C) of the stock (B) in 
a longitudinal cleft made between two buds of the crown at 
their junction near the central bud ; this cleft may be partial 
or entire (&). The insertion having been made (as at d), it is 
bandaged with wool or cotton and covered with mastic ; the 
graft is then surrounded with a sheet of paper, in order to 
preserve it, when it begins to sprout,, from the action of the 
sun and hot winds. At the same time the shoots of the 
upper whorl of the stock are cut to half their length ; the 
slender ones may be bent downwards. The object of this 
precaution is to divert a larger supply of sap to the graft. 
No part of the stock except the upper whorl is to be thus 
cut. Even afterwards the branches of the stock must not be 
too closely pruned. If they extend too much, a moderate 
pinching in summer will suffice to check them. The stock 
may be grafted at any age, and either in the open air or under 



GEAFT1XG AXD BUDDING. 



103 



glass with, the air excluded. The trees which result from 
this mode of grafting will have all the appearance of having 
been raised from seed. Of course, it will be better to graft 
them when young, if a longer enjoyment of their nabit and 
foliage is desired. In the nurseries about Metz this mode 




Terminal Grafting of the Pine. 



of grafting is successfully practised in the open air, in July 
and August, when the scion and the leading shoot of the 
stock are passing from the herbaceous to the woody state, 
and present sufficient consistence to allow of this mode of 
grafting being performed. 



104. 



THE ART OF 



Terminal Herbaceous Grafting. 
"We have used this method chiefly with the pine, but we 
have every reason to believe that it will answer other members 
of the Conifer family equally well. When the sap first begins 
to flow in May and June, and the young shoots of the pine are 
already an inch or two long, and before the new leaves are 
developed, is the proper time for grafting. The scion (C) is one 
of these young shoots in an almost rudimentary state, with a 
bud at its extremity : it is taken from a branch of the parent 
tree, it does not matter whether from the top or the sides. It 




Terminal Herbaceous Grafting. 

is cut with a sharp knife on both sides, in an even, sloping 
direction. This must be carefully done, on account of the 
delicate texture of the wood. The stock is cut off at the top 
of the leading shoot, immediately below the group of terminal 
buds. The leaves around the top (B) are removed, except a 
few which are left to attract the flow of the sap. The cleft is 
made either right across, or partially, according to the 
difference between the diameter of the stock and that of the 
scion. The scion is inserted rather deeply into this cleft, sc 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



105 



that the top of the cut part may be a little below the level of 
the top of the stock, and the bark should coincide with that 
of the stock on one side at least. A prop or a stake will be 
necessary to support the graft for a year or two. It is 
bandaged with wool, and the cuts exposed to the air must be 
covered with mastic ; a paper cap is placed over the graft, 
and kept there until the scion has began to sprout. The 
stock will not afterwards require any clipping, disbudding, or 
pinching of its branches. The Forest of Fontainebleau 
affords examples of Pinus Laricio which were thus grafted 
on Pinus sylvestris forty years ago, and the trees are 
as fine as if they had been raised from seed. For twenty 
years past M. Jules Barotte, of Brachay (Haute-IMarne), 
has converted by this method thousands of Pinus sylvestris 
into P. austriaca and P. Laricio. He operates in the open 
ground or in the forest, grafts the subjects on young 
leading shoots at the height of two or three feet from the 
ground, and never covers his grafts with paper caps, as they 
do in the nurseries. 

Cleft -Grafting in ForJcings. 
In this method the scion is inserted into the stock at the 
point where a branch forks from the stem, or where two 
branches fork with each other. It is easy to produce this 
forking by a suitable pruning of the stem or branch at any 
time, or by making an incision over a bud, which will develope 
into a branch and form a forking. The scion is cut into a 
triangular wedge and inserted into the stock at the junction 
of the two branches ; these branches are to be gradually 
shortened as the graft develops itself. Conifers, the beech, 
the vine, and the oak, are the kinds which succeed best under 
this method. 

Fork -Grafting of Conifers* 
Amongst resinous trees, the kinds which ramify on the 



106 



THE AET OP 



young leading shoot, the varieties of Biota, Chamsecyparissus, 
cypress, juniper, Eetinospora, Thuja and Thujopsis, may be 
propagated by this method. The scion (A) is inserted into the 
stock (B) at the point of junction (E) of the branch (D) with the 
leading shoot (0) ; the lower part (a) of the scion is cut on both 
sides, so as to have the internal part narrower than the outside 
and cut perfectly clean and level. A partial cleft is made in 





Fork- Grafting of Conifera. 
the top of the stock, at the place (b) of forking ; the scion is 
inserted here, bandaged, covered with mastic, and surrounded 
with a leaf of whitey-brown paper .For this somewhat delicate 
work, a blade like that of a penknife will be most convenient. 
Spring is the proper season for the operation. The sap must 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



107' 



be attracted to tlie graft by shortening the branches of the 
stock, which are beneath the graft ; their ends only need be 
cut off. An extensive lopping or clipping would be disas- 
trous, and should never be resorted to in the case of young 
Conifers. 

Fork- Grafting of tlie Beech. 
The scion A (p. 108) is let into the stock (B) at the angle where 
the two branches (0 and D) meet. The lower part (a) of the scion 
is cut into a thin wedge, of which a is a section. The cleft (b) 
of the stock should not extend further than two -thirds of the 
diameter of the tree, so that the scion may be held firmly ; 
however, it must also be bandaged and covered with mastic. 
If, instead of a cleft, a channel or groove were made, such as 
our illustration (b) seems to indicate, it would be merely addi- 
tional labour without increasing the probability of success. 
The branches (C and D) are to be cut ppetty long ; they may be 
shortened afterwards as the scion deveiopes itself, so that 
the two stumps may be removed in the following autumn, 
supposing the grafting to have taken place in March or ApriL 
The oak may also be grafted in this way. M. P. de Mortellet 
has for a long time propagated by this method the oaks of 
America upon those of Europe. "We have also succeeded with 
the European walnut upon the American species. Perhaps 
the chestnut and other hard-wooded trees may be thus grafted 
with equal success. 

Fork- Grafting of the Vine. 
This mode of grafting is performed over-ground in the 
forking of two branches. The. scion, prepared with a sloping 
cut on both sides, is introduced into the' stock by means of a 
partial cleft opened at the junction of two branches. These 
two branches are cut down to within about a foot from the 
main stem ; and in summer the shoots which spring from them 



103 



THE ART OF 



are to be pinched, bnt not cut away, with the object of drawing 
the sap towards the graft. After a year's growth the two 
branches are to be cnt off level with the graft. The proper 
time for operating is in autumn, when the sap is about to 
decline, although there is a chance of succeeding in spring. 
The bandaging should be strong, and kept on for a long time, 
as the wood of the vine has a tendency to split. This method, 




Fork-Grafting of the Beech. 



recommended by M. Eoisselot, of Nantes, enables us to change 
the nature of a vine-stock by inserting at its forkings scions 
of the variety which we wish to propagate ; or we may thus 
bring together several varieties on the same stem. 

Treatment after Cleft-Grafting. 
"We have already, under the different modes of cleft -grafting, 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



109 



indicated the special treatment which they demand, and we 
have now only to generalise onr principal directions. Keep 
a constant watch on the bandages. As they develope them- 
selves, the scions must be tied np to stakes, poles, or props of 
some kind. The simplest way is to attach a flexible rod by 
its two ends to the stock, arranging it in whatever manner the 




"Mode of tying up and securing the Mode ot tying up several Grafts 

Graft on a tall Standard. on the same Stock. 

yonng shoots may be most conveniently fastened to it. 
Eemove all buds from extraneous shoots of the stock ; the 
stronger the stock, and the more distant these shoots are from 
the graft, the more rigorously should this rule be carried out. 
Any insects which have taken up their abode in the fissures 



110 



THE ART 01 



of the graft or under the bandages should be looked after and 
dislodged. A cleft-graft which has missed may be replaced 
by a crown-graft, a shield-bud, or a cleft -graft with an 
herbaceous branch. 

English Grafting. — General Directions. 
The stock and the scion are usually of the same diameter. 
They are cut with a slant in opposite directions, but at the 
same angle, so as to fit exactly when brought together. Their 
points of contact are sometimes increased in number by a series 
of notches or tongues which fit into each other. The stock 
is headed down to receive the graft. A rather large stock 
may have two grafts. The scion is a portion of a well-grown 
branch with from two to four eyes. This method is applicable 
to most plants. In the establishment of M. Andre Leroy, at 
Angers, hardly any other system is employed, but in other 
establishments it is only used with stocks of small diameter. 
The proper season for grafting in this way is in 3Iarch and 
April ; the operation would also succeed in August and Sep- 
tember, when the flow of the sap begins to decline. There are 
numberless ways of practising grafting after the English 
fashion, but we shall confine ourselves to three or four of the 
most distinct. 

rdinary Splice- Grafting. 
"Next to bud-grafting, this method is the most suitable for 
apricot trees. The stock and the scion, which are of the same 
diameter, are cut with a sloping or splice cut perfectly smooth 
and even, in order to prevent the exudation of gum, which is 
always fatal to the union of the parts. The two parts are 
then fitted together as exactly as possible, and bound with a 
pliant bandage of wool, Sparganium, or lime-bark. The use 
of a stake or prop should not be neglected, and care must 
be taken to ease the bandaging, if it should become too tight. 



SRAPTING AND BUDDING. 



Ill 



Tongue-Grafting. 
This is the method most commonly used, and is a sort of 
carpenter's graft. The scion (B) is cut with a very long 
sloping or splice cnt ; in this a long notch (D) is cut for about 
two-thirds of its length, so as to have a bud (E) at the end of 
it. This notch is to be made quite smooth, and should be 
made in two clean cuts of the pruuing-knife. The stock (A) 




Ordinary Splice-Grafting. 



is treated in the same way, so as to have a notch corre- 
sponding to that of the scion, which should fit into it 
accurately. The point (D) is then inserted into the notch at 
C, and the parts are pressed into each other. As the ends 
of the graft are more likely to become loose than the centre, 
the bandages should be more carefully attended to at these 
points. The operation is completed by the application of 
! j mastic. Should the scion have a smaller diameter than the 



312 



THE AET OP 



stock, it should be drawn to one side of the cut, so that the 
bark of both stock and scion may coincide on one side at 
least. In the next page we give another form of English 
grafting, which we think should be called the thunderbolt 
method. Presenting great solidity of plan, it affords a double 
security in the two slanting notches of the scion (A) and of 
the stock (B) both finally united at C. The bud (at d) on the 
back of the scion has been properly left opposite the notch. 




Its object is to attract the flow of the sap to the graft. We 
may here mention the old-fashioned system of "whip- 
grafting," employed in England in the case of some 
kinds of trees in preference to budding, on account of the 
inclemency of the climate. The stock is headed down and 
cut on one side only to receive the scion, which is cut with a 
long splice-cut and partially cleft or notched; the graft ia 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



113 



then covered with grafting-wax as far as the terminal bud of 
the scion. 

Saddle-Grafting. 
The stock B (p. 114) is cut at the top with a slanting cut on 
both sides (&). The scion (A) is opened or cleft at its base (a) 
and placed saddle-wise on the stock (B) which is embraced 




Grafting with a notched Splice. 



by it (as at C). It is then bandaged. This method comes more 
properly under the head of grafting under glass ; in that case, 
mastic is unnecessary. In May 1867 we saw at the Exhi- 
bition at Versailles a charming collection of Ehododendrons 
obtained in this way by M. Bertin, junr. The scions, which 
were taken from flowering branches, had produced bouquets 
of bloom at once. It would, therefore, be very easy to get 

1 



114 



THE ART OF 



together in a small space a miniature collection of this plant 
in flower. We have also seen this process employed in the 
multiplication of camellias by M. Marie at Moulin s. 




Saddle-Grafting. 



Treatment after English Grafting. 
The more intimately the two parts are fitted to and hooked 
into each other the less necessity there will be for the use of 
a prop or stake, yet, as it is better to err on the side of 



GRAFTING AND EUDDIN'G. 



precaution, we should employ a stake or pole of a length 
proportioned to the probable development of the shoots. It 
is very possible that the bandage may become too tight, 
for, as the parts are of the same diameter, the stock will 
be a young and consequently a vigorous subject. Should 
this occur, the bandage must be untied, and not cut, as 
there is danger of the knife penetrating the joining of 
the graft. 

Group VI. — Mixed Grafting. 
"We give this name to those modes of grafting which, without 
having any determinate character, resemble other methods 
either in the manner of preparing the scion, or uniting it with 
the stock. Such are cutting-grafting, layer-grafting, root- 
grafting, and grafting with fruit -buds. 

Cutting-G raft Ing. 
In order to propagate various kinds of trees or shrubs, 
which succeed as cuttings, and not so well when grafted in 
the ordinary way, we have recourse to a mixed process, the 
base of which is the employment of a scion or a stock in 
the condition of a cutting. The new roots which spring 
from the cutting strengthen the graft by supplying it with 
additional vital elements. It is, so to speak, half grafting 
by approach, and often a case of root-grafting. Sometimes the 
scion is the cutting and sometimes the stock, and occasionally 
both are cuttings united by grafting. Adepts in. grafting, 
they say, should succeed in grafting a scion of orange-tree on 
the midrib of a leaf of a citron-tree which has been newly 
slipped ! 

Grafting with a Cutting for the Scion. 
In this method the scion only is a cutting, the stock is a 
\ tree which has been at least a year planted. It may be left 

i 2 



116 THE ART OP 

entire or headed down at the time of grafting : and may be 
grafted either close to the ground or at some distance from it, 
under the surface of the soil or above it. 

Cutting -Grafting on a Low Stem. 
There are two principal methods based on the previous 




Cutting-Grafting. 

amputation of the stem or otherwise. Here the stock is 
shortened to within 4 inches or 8 inches from the neck. We 
then take a scion-branch of sufficient length that when its 
extremity is buried in the soil as a cutting, close to the stock, 
it may be grafted on the stock, and have a couple of buds 



GrKAFTINGr AND BUDDING. 



117 



above the graft. The stock is channelled with the gouge 
and the bark is removed from that part of the scion which 
is to be placed in the groove. They are then bandaged and 
covered with mastic. When a vine is grafted in this way, 
the soil is heaped up about it so as to cover the graft. When 
the stem of the vine is young, or if it is furnished with vigorous 
shoots at the base, we have recourse to layer-grafting. A 
small trench or hole is made (B), in which the shoot is to be 
layered ; the shoot to be grafted is then cut down to the third 




Layer-Grafting, 



eye (as at A). The other shoots of the same stock are removed, 
or cut short or grafted in the same way. The scion is grafted 
at A in the English fashion, then cut so as to leave two or three 
eyes over-ground, and fastened to a stake. Should the stock 
offer any resistance it can be pegged down in the bottom of the 
trench with a forked stick. The hole or trench (B) should then 
be filled with good free soil, which will facilitate the production 
of the new roots. Instead of previously shortening the stock 



118 



THE ART OF 



it may be grafted entire, so that it may not be mutilated to no 
purpose, should the graft miss. The scion (A) is cut as at C ; 
the stock (B) is prepared to receive it by making three inci- 
sions in the bark and raising it (as at D). The two parts are 
then brought together (as at E) in the same way as in grafting 
by approach ; the scion having its base (F) buried, in order to 
form roots, or merely for the purpose of keeping it alive. 
The graft is bandaged and covered with mastic or grafting- 




Layer-Grafting (another method). 



wax. When the operation is performed in spring the upper 
part of the stock is to be gradually removed in the course of 
the same year. We begin to do this in a week after grafting 
by cutting away some of the branches, and repeat the opera- 
tion at intervals during the summer, in proportion as we see 
the shoots of the graft develop themselves. The process is 
finally completed by the removal of the stump in the following 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



119 



year. If the separation of the lower part of the scion from 
the ground can be dispensed with, its chances of a lengthened 
existence will be doubled. If it is necessary, however, it is 




(Cutting-Grafting on a tall Stock, 
best accomplished gradually by successive annular incisions, 
which will by degrees accustom it to draw its sustenance 
entirely from the stock. 



120 



THE ART OF 



Cutting -Grafting on a Tall Stock. 
If the scion is not long enough, to be at the same time 
planted as a cntting and grafted at a certain height on the 
stock, we make good the deficiency by nsing a vessel filled 
■with earth, or a bottle of water raised to the required 
height, and receiving the lower part of the scion. Cool 
sand is much better for this purpose than vegetable mould, 
as it is not so liable to become dry. Should the grafting take 
place during the period of vegetation, while the sap is flowing, 
we should prefer using a vessel of water (C), at the bottom of 
winch should be a layer of powdered charcoal, in order to 
prevent the decomposition of the water, which otherwise must 
be renewed frequently. The scion (B) should be stripped of 
its leaves ; in the case of deciduous subjects, these should be 
cut off close to the stalk; in evergreens it will be sufficient to 
cut the half of each leaf away. The graft, which is made 
either by veneering or in the English fashion, should be 
covered with grafting -clay, and shaded with paper. The 
removal of the upper part of the stock, which is begun in 
summer by gradually cutting away the branches (A) and the 
top of the main stem, should not be completed (as at E) until 
after the growth of the year following. At the same time the 
heel of the scion should be cut away level at its junction with 
the stock, the office of the auxiliary sand or water having now 
ended. 

Grafting on a Stock vSliicli is a Cutting. 
The stock (T) is a portion of an Aucuba japonica prepared 
%s a cutting ; the lower part is cut under a bud, and the top is 
furnished with one bud and one leaf (V) just opposite the place 
destined to receive the scion. The leaves on the buried part 
are cut down to the stalk, and the others have half the blade 
cut away. The scion (X) is taken from the variety which it is 
desired to propagate. It is cut and inserted in the top of the 



GRAFTING A>'D BUDDING. 



121 



stock in the manner described in cleft -grafting or inlaying. It 
should be bound with a pliant, broad, and flat bandage. Under 
glass mastic is unnecessary. The stock thus grafted is 





Grafting oa a Cutting (Ancuba). 



planted in a cutting-pot (Y), and placed under a cloche or bell- 
glass in heat until the stock produces roots and the scion 
begins to sprout. Air is then given by removing the cloche, 



122 



THi; AET 01 



and in a short time it is placed on a shelf in the house. It is 
gradually hardened off under a frame and shade. The aucuba, 
orange-tree, camellia, and Euonymus japonicus may be propa- 
gated in this way. Grafts in the condition of saplings, as the 
poplar and willow, also come under this class. 




Grafting with two Cuttings (Aucuba). 



Grafting with tivo Cuttings. 
This mode of grafting, which is used with the aucuba and 
similar plants, consists in the uirion of two cuttings as stock 
and scion, both forming roots which promote their mutual 
cohesion and growth. The stock is a portion of the plant pre- 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



123 



pared in all respects as if for a cutting. It is cut clean at L 
and K, the leaves at the base are cut down to the stalk, and 
those at the top through the middle of the blade. The scion 
(I) is cut equally on both sides in a sloping direction, as if for 
side-grafting in the alburnum. It is then inserted hi a cleft in 
the top of the stock, and the graft is bandaged with a pliant 
fastening. The subject thus grafted is then potted and placed 
under a cloche in the propagating house. Before long, roots 
will be formed simultaneously by the stock (at L) and by the 
scion (at M), from which the graft will derive an increased 
amount of vigour. After at least a year's growth, the upper 
part of the stock between K and the graft is cut away ; but it 
is better to retain the rooted part of the stock, instead of 
severing it from the graft. The natural roots of the latter, 
being nearer the surface of the soil, always eventually starve 
out and supersede the roots beneath them, so that they never 
spread. 

Root-Grafting. 

Many plants which are difficult of propagation may be mul- 
tiplied by grafting a branch on a portion of root either their 
own or that of another plant ; whence arise two sub -divi- 
sions : — 

1. Grafting a Plant on its oiun Boots. 
It is probable that woody species, for the grafting of which 
no allied species can be found, can be propagated by grafting 
their branches on their own roots. Dr. Loiseau, of Mont- 
martre, who had begun some experiments on this subject, died 
before completing his investigations. We shall, however, 
mention some methods which have been admitted into 
practice. 

Hoot-Grafting by Approach. 
In 1867, M. Grasidou, gardener to the Botanic Garden at 
Montpellier, more fortunate than his predecessors, succeeded 



124 



THE ART OP 



in grafting a rare Mexican shrub — Convolvulus macranthus 
(Ipomcea niurucoides), of which there was only a single spe- 
cimen in the establishment. The branches not severed from 
the plant were grafted by approach on portions of the root 
during the flow of the sap ; the portion of the root which was 
grafted was not quite severed from the parent-plant, and was 
planted in a small pot filled with soil. In a month the union 
of the parts was completed. A few weeks afterwards the 
portion of root was detached from the parent-plant, and sub- 
sequently the branch grafted upon it was also gradually 
severed. These grafts have prospered and reproduced several 
specimens of the original plant. 

Hoot-Grafting hy Veneering. 

A portion of root is prepared by making an incision with 
a notch at the top. The scion is similarly prepared by 
making a corresponding tongue at the upper part of the 
sloping cut. They are then placed together, so that the 
tongue of the scion will fit into the notch in the root, and 
bandaged without using mastic. The branching extremities 
of the root are cut away, and the graft is planted in a half- 
shady place in a sloping position in the trench, and covered 
with good soil up to the upper bud of the scion. 

Root -Grafting hy the English Method. 

In this case the diameter of the scion is larger than that of 
the root. The base of the scion is cleft, and the upper part 
of the root cut in a sloping direction on both sides. The 
cleft part of the scion is then placed on the top of the root, as 
in saddle-grafting. The graft is bandaged with wool, and 
planted in a shady place in a light compost. Should the root 
be a long one, it is better to lay it in an inclined direction 
in the soil rather than to plant it upright, as growth is sooner 
promoted in the former position. 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



125 



2. Grafting on a Separate Root. 
In contra-distinction to the methods just enumerated, in 
which the stock is the root of the plant which is to be 
grafted, in the present mode the stock and scion are taken 
from different plants. The stock is either a portion of a root 
proper or a stem cut down close to the root, but not below 
the neck. 

Grafting on a Fragment of a Hoot. 
The bignonia, the tree paBony, and the wistaria should be 
grafted in spring before the flow of the sap, or in August, 




A fragment of a Root grafted (Bignonia). 

when it has gone to rest. We have read that the Chinese 
graft these plants in October. The tubers or cuttings from 
the roots are taken before the sap begins to flow, and laid in 
a trench. As soon as the buds begin to swell, the time for 
grafting has arrived. The scion (B) is taken from a shoot 
of the previous year. It is -cut with a thin, wedge-like 
extremity, and inserted into the stock (A) either by cleft- 
grafting or inlaying. The graft is only slightly bandaged or 
not at all; mastic is not required. The subjects grafted are 
then potted and placed under glass, so as to have the air 



126 



THE ART OP 



excluded. If it is apprehended that drops of condensed vapour 
may find their way into the cleft of the graft, the pots should 
be plunged in a sloping direction under the light or cloche. 
As soon as the scion has begun to shoot, air should be admitted 
by degrees. As the cut part of the scion is not entirely 
inserted in the cleft, and as the stock is completely buried 
below the level of the soil, the graft will throw out fibres and 
thus come upon its own roots. Suckers may be prevented 
from rising by the removal of the upper part of the roots, 
which serve for stocks, and by destroying the latent buds. 

Grafting on the Neck of the Boot. 

The clematis is usually grafted under glass, on the neck or 
on a separate root, with herbaceous scions not stripped of 
their leaves, and cut from the parent plant just when the buds 
begin to swell. The stocks after grafting are potted, and 
placed under a cloche, with the air excluded. They remain 
there until new roots appear around the ball, and the buds of 
the scion begin to shoot. The hollyhock succeeds in the open 
air grafted close to the ground. But this subject has the 
disadvantage of sending out above the graft too many exhaust- 
ing branches. This may be in part remedied by inserting the 
scion in the shortened stem just above the neck, or by grafting 
on a secondary root. After grafting they are planted out in 
ordinary soil. The manner in which the hollyhock grows 
intimates that it need not be grafted very early in the season ; 
and as cold damp winters are injurious to the scion-branches, 
these should be detached from the parent plant before winter, 
and buried completely up to the moment of using them in 
grafting. The walnut succeeds when grafted on a young plant 
close to the ground. The neck is laid bare and cleft-grafted ; 
then the soil is heaped up around it as far as the uppermost} 
bud of the scion. On account of the softness of the tissues of 



GrKAPTDsG AND BUDDING. 127 

the walnut-tree, the scion is cut obliquely, and the stock is also 
cleft obliquely, as we have explained under the head of oblique 
cleft-grafting. If it is desired to avoid cutting the pith of the 
scion, the bark on two sides may be pared off, and the scion 
then inserted into the stock, which has been prepared to 
receive it by the process of inlaying. A scion of two years' 
growth will prove sufficiently hardy. The magnolia is grafted 




Vine-Grafting near the root. 



by inlaying on the neck of the root in July or August. The 
subjects grafted are placed under a frame for a month, then 
repotted and removed to the north side of a wall or other 
shelter. The vine, of which we have already spoken under the 
head of cutting-grafting, can also be grafted by this method as 
well as in the English fashion, on the neck of the root before 



128 



THE ART OP 



the sap begins to flow, either in February, in southern 
districts, or in March and April in later parts of the country. 
Cleft-grafting is most frequently employed in vineyards. The 
neck of the root is laid bare, and the stem cut off about 4 inches 
below the surface of the soil. The more scaly the stem is, the 
lower it should be cut, in order to reach a sound place for the 
graft. The scions are shoots with two or three eyes, cut before- 
hand, well-ripened, and kept in the ground in shade. They 




Vine-graft completed and earthed up. 



are cut obliquely (a, p) and inserted into the stock with the aid 
of the chisel or grafting-knife. If the stock is not cleft quite 
across there will be no necessity for bandaging. The applica- 
tion of grafting-wax to the cut is not absolutely necessary. 
The addition of a stake or prop, and the heaping up of the 
soil as far as the highest bud of the scion, complete the opera- 
tion. When the operation is carried on in a vineyard on a 
large scale, a workman with a small mattock lays bare the soil 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



129 



at the base of the stems of the vines which have been pre- 
viously disbranched. The grafter then follows, freshens the 
cutting of the stock, and inserts the scions, of which he carries 
a supply already prepared in a basket of fresh moss, A third 
workman covers the graft with clay or onguent cle St. Fiacre, 
fixes the prop, and heaps up vegetable mould over the graft. 
In the summer, the disbudding of the shoots which issue from 




Grafting with scions bearing fruit-buds. 



the stock and the tying up of the shoots from the graft must 
not be overlooked. 

Grafting with Fruit-hude. 
This interesting operation, which is more especially applied 
to the pear-tree, has a double object. 1. The utilising 01 

K 



130 



THE ART OF 



superfluous fruit -buds. 2. To render fruitful a vigorous 
subject which does not possess fruit-bearing qualities. About 
the month of August, the fruit-buds of one subject which has 
too man}' are grafted on another which is deficient in them ; 
and, in the following year, the buds which have been thus 
grafted flower and bear fruit much better than if they had 
remained on the parent-tree. The operation should take 
place when the sap begins to decline : yet, as we have to do 
with trees of a certain age, we should take care not to graft 




Grafting with, a simple fruit-bud. 



too late. A very vigorous tree or a gourmand branch is best 
of all for this kind of grafting. Fructification thus forced upon 
them will subdue them and bring them to bear fruit of them- 
selves. "We may thus also have several varieties of fruit on 
the same tree, which however is perhaps neither an advantage 
nor the reverse. The scions are taken by preference from 
those trees which are usually too heavily laden with fruit, and 
the fruit-buds which are destined to fall at the next pruning 
will answer exactly for grafting purposes. The scions are cut 
from the parent-tree just before using them ; their leaves 



GRAFTING AXD BUDDING. 



131 



must be removed at once, and the scions themselves kept in a 
cool place in a vessel of water or in damp moss. The scions 
are generally prepared in the manner already described nnder 
the heads of side-grafting with a simple branch or one with a 
heel, and veneer-grafting with straps. A skilful operator will 
know how to nse them in different processes, The figure (p. 129) 
shows two scions prepared (E and G-). The sloping cuts are 
made on the back and at the base. The stock (F) has been 



prepared with a T incision, and the scion (D) inserted under the 
raised bark. Sometimes the bark at the head of the T is 
pared away to facilitate the insertion of the scion. A scion 
which appears rather long should not be thrown away: all 
that is necessary is to make the sloping cut longer, even to 
the extent of half the length of the scion ; in this way soma 
fruit -buds on the back of the scion may be inlaid in tho 
incision made in the stock. Frequently the scion is an 




Grafting with, a fruiting-spur. 



s 2 



132 



THE AUT OP 



exceedingly short branch or eren a simple fruit -bud. It 
should be cut off with a strip of bark and alburnum B (p. 130) an 
inch or two in length attached. Care should be taken not to 
remove the woody part at the base ; it should be merely 
smoothed down so as to ensure its cohesion ; it is then inserted 
(at C) into the T incision in the stock (A). It should be 
bandaged rather tightly throughout, and the points of junction 
covered with clay, mastic, or the leaf of a tree, should any 
part of the tissues remain exposed. The bandage should not 




Result of grafting with a fruit-bud. 



be removed before the fruit has set in the beginning of the 
following summer. Should there be any fruiting- spurs ready 
for grafting when the sap is not very abundant, it will be best 
to employ cleft-grafting, inlaying, or crown-grafting. On 
shoots and simple but vigorous branches success is mora 
certain in autumn than in spring, but the best time is from 
July to September with side -grafting under the bark. The 
process of veneering with strips might also be advantageously 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



133 



used. The Pear-tree is best adapted for this operation. Very 
fertile and large-fruited varieties, such as Beurre Clairgeau, 
William, Colmar, d'Aremberg, &c, yield splendid crops by 
this method. The fruit-buds preserve their fruit-bearing 
properties. The figure (p. 132) shows the result in 1867 of a graft 
made in 1860, and for seven years it has constantly borne 
fruit. We have proved the advantage of this process during 
twenty years' experience of fruit-bud grafting in our schools 
of fruit-culture. We are indebted for it to M. Gabriel Luizet 
of Ecully, to whom belongs the credit of having first made it 
commonly known, although it had been invented for some time 
before he brought it into practice. 

BUD-GRAFTING OR BUDDING. 

General Remarks. 
In England the term "grafting" is practically restricted 
to those operations in which the scion used is a portion of a 
shoot or branch. When the scion is merely a bud, the process 
is known under the specific name of " budding " — a term 
which, although sanctioned by long and general usage 
amongst us, is less accurate than the French term " bud- 
grafting" (greffage par ceil), by which it is properly described 
as a sub -division or branch of the art of grafting. An eye 
or bud, accompanied by a certain portion of bark, detached 
from a branch, is the scion in this mode of grafting. The 
strip of bark attached to the eye should comprehend the 
entire thickness of the cortical layer as far as the alburnum 
exclusively. If the operator cannot remove it with exactness 
at this point, it will be better to cut a small portion of the 
wood with it than to want the smallest part of the inner 
bark. The portion of bark may be either of a tubular form 
or like a shield ; whence the terms shield-bud grafting and 
£ute-grafting. The stock is a growing tree or shrub. Tho 



134 



THE AET OF 



introduction of the scion is effected by inserting it under 
the raised bark of the stock at a time when the condition of 
the sap allows it to be easily detached from the alburnum. 
Any branches which might interfere with the operation should 
have been cut off some time previously, so that the course 
of the sap may not be checked by doing so at the time of 
grafting. 

Group L — Shield-bud Grafting. 
The term shield-bud has arisen from the form of the strip 
of bark which is attached to the bud-graft. The shape of it, 
however, is variable; it may be oval, square, triangular, 
obtuse, &c, but in any form it is called a shield-bud. The 
buds are taken from shoots of the current year, if the opera- 
tion is performed in summer; and from shoots of the 
previous year, if the budding is done in spring. Shoots of a 
medium size are preferable to very strong or very weak ones. 
The eyes should be well formed and not opened. There are 
two sub-divisions of this mode of grafting, according to the 
manner of inserting the bud : — 1. By inoculation, or under 
the bark of the stock. 2. By veneering, or removing a 
portion of the bark, and putting the bud in its place. 

Shield-budding by Inoculation. — General Directions. 
The stock should not be budded unless the sap is flowing. 
This may be ascertained by raising the bark with the 
grafting-knife. If the state of the sap is satisfactory, the 
bark will detach itself easily, without tearing, and exhibit a 
slight moisture underneath, which will promote the union of 
the bud and stock. It is of considerable importance that both 
parts should be in an equal condition of growth ; but should 
there be any difference, it is better to have the stock in a 
more advanced state of sap than the bud. The shoots from 
which the buds are taken should also be in a state of sap and 



G HAFT IX G AND BUDDING. 



135 



be sufficiently woody. Their condition as regards the sap is 
ascertained in the same way as that of the stock, and tho 
wood is shown to be properly ripened by the well-pronounced 
colour of the outer bark, by the formation of the terminal bud, 
and by the elasticity of the tissues under the pressure of the 
finger. Shoots rather advanced in maturity are to be 
preferred to those which are in a completely herbaceous stage 
of growth ; however, it is better to have them in the conditioi? 
mentioned above. 

Orel i nary S li ielcl-B udd in g . 

Of all the methods this is the most extensively used in 
nurseries and gardens. 

"Preparation of the Scioris. 
The shoots, having been selected according to the foregoing 
directions, are prepared by rejecting whatever is useless for 
budding. In the first place, we may observe that the eyes in 
the middle of the shoot are generally the most suitable for 
use in shield-budding ; those at the base and top have often 
the defect of being imperfect, herbaceous, blind, or too much 
disposed to fruit. The bud to be selected should be well 
formed, neither latent nor a fruit bud, nor damaged in any 
way. Shoots of forced growth, and those which have too 
great a tendency to produce flowers, do not afford suitable 
eyes for budding purposes. If, however, there is a deficiency 
of good buds, one may employ doubtful ones, using two 
instead of one, or one good bud and one doubtful one on the 
same stock. There are some shoots which appear uncertain, 
but which turn out well with the help of pinching. Over- 
grown spurred shoots are not to be despised, nor are those 
which are covered with an abundance of leaves. The pear 
branch (A) having been selected, the extremities (B and C), 
which are useless, are cut off, and the leaves cut down on 



136 



THE AET OP 



their stalks to within about half an inch from the axillary eye 
of each (as shown at D'). The stipules are also pinched off. 
The scions thus prepared are to be immediately placed in the 
shade in a cool place, with their lower extremities plunged in 
a vessel containing water or damp moss. They should not be 




Preparation of the Scion for Shield-budding. 

left in the water more than five or six hours, unless they are 
in a very dry condition, when they may be left in it for a day, 
with the ends only in the water, in a shady place, and then for 
a night placed in the grass or moss, in order to restore the 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



137 



natural moisture which they may have lost. The nurseiyman, 
who prepares in the evening scions to be used next day, leaves 
them all night in cool grass or in a damp cloth. Should water 
not be at hand, the scions should be buried entirely in soil 
until they are required for use. They should not, however, be 
left unused for more than twenty-four hours. Scions of ever- 
greens shouM not be stripped of their leaves; these should 




Removing the Bud. 



merely be cut off through the middle of the blade, although 
even this is not absolutely necessary. 

Removing tlie Bud. 
The shoot is held in one hand and the grafting -knife in the 
other. The bark is then cut through about half an inch or so 
above and below the bud (as at /, /, E). Then holding the 
shoot, as shown in the illustration, the blade of the knife is 



133 



THE ART 0? 



inserted just above the upper incision, and driven in a slanting 
direction as far as the alburnum ; then carried along towards 
the lower incision, following the course of the dotted line 
(g } g, F), and observing the bending at g r just under the bud. 
In consequence of the first two incisions {f f), the bud conies 
out, as shown at H, cut clean at both ends. At the back there 
is no wood except under the bud : this little woody tube is its 
germ, so to speak, and, without it, it would not grow. Should 
there be a splinter of alburnum attached above and below it, 
it should be seized by the upper end and pulled off smartly ; if 
taken by the lower end, there is danger of tearing off the germ 
along with it, and the bud, if deprived of this, will not grow. 
jSTevertheless, if the sap of the stock is in full flow, there will 
be no harm in leaving a small particle of wood under the bark 
of the shield-bud; it will help to render the union of the parts 
more intimate. A skilful operator seldom or never removes 
this little piece of alburnum, as he knows that by doing so he 
would run the risk of injuring the bud or of exposing it too 
long to the air. When he has an abundant supply of scions, he 
does not hesitate to throw away any bud that happens to have 
been removed in a doubtful condition, and use another in its 
stead. Scarcely will he lose time in trimming squarely the 
ends that may have been cut irregularly. Some oj)erator3 
proceed in a different way, among whom M. Edouard Andre- 
holds the scion -branch head downwards, and removes the bud 
by passing the knife in a direction contrary to that which has 
been described. The strip of bark, having the form of an 
antique shield, square at the top and narrow at the base, is 
easily inserted into the stock. 

Insertion of tlie Bud. 

The bud having been detached from the shoot, the bark of 
the stock is opened by making two incisions with the grafting- 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



139 



knife in the shape of a T? to the full depth of the bark ; then, 
with the ivory spatula of the implement, the edges of the 
longitudinal incision (K) are raised at its point of junction 
with the incision (j). At the same time, the other hand, 
holding the bud by the stalk, slips it into the incision as 
quickly as possible, so that the parts underneath may not 
suffer from exposure to the air. Care should be taken not to 
remove the bud from its parent-shoot until at the moment 
when it is to be inserted in the stock, and also that no foreign 




Inserting and Tying the Bud. 

body be allowed to introduce itself at the same time into the 
incision. The inserted bud is represented at L. 

Bandaging the Bud. 
The best bandages for shield-budding are wool, cotton, and 
leaves of Typha or Sparganium. We have already mentioned, 
in the chapter on bandages,' how they are prepared, so as to 
be pliant when they are used. The bandage is wound in a 
spiral manner round the stock (as at M), commencing at the 
upper part, as by doing so we avoid the danger of raising the 
bud and displacing it from the incision, which is very likely 



110 



THE AET OP 



to occur, especially when the buds are large and broad. One 
end of the bandage is placed on the horizontal incision of the 
T? round which two or three turns are made. It is then wound 
in close spiral turns about the graft as far as the bottom of 
the vertical incision. The end of the bandage is passed 
through the second last turn, and fastened securely. The 
parts to be most firmly tied are at the top and bottom of the 
incision, and just above and below the bud. The tightness of 
the bandage must, however, be within certain limits ; it must 




Opening the bark for insertion of the Bud. 



not go so far as to bruise or fray the bark, and will be suffi- 
ciently attained, if the bandage is not moved by passing the 
finger over it. 

Preservatives against Dryness. 
In addition to the bandage, the leaf of a tree is placed over 
the grafted part, when the stock is grown against a wall in 
the full sunshine. Mastic is never used in shield-bud grafting. 
The only case in which it might be used is when the bandage 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



Ill 



is likely to become loose ; then the application of mastic would 
serve to keep it in position, and preserve the graft from the 
action of the atmosphere. When the vine is shield-budded, 
soil should be heaped up about the stock. The operation 
should be performed about the end of July, and the soil kept 
about the graft for a fortnight. "We have known Mr. J. 
Gagnerot, of Beaune, to operate in this way with complete- 
success since 1865. 

Shield'hudding in Nurseries. 

In large establishments, shield-budding is a matter which 
requires continued attention. It is necessary to know when 
to seize the moment favourable for grafting each species, and 
for operating in different parts of the grounds, as well as to 
keep an eye on the scion-branches of rare kinds, in order to 
utilise them at the proper time. Great heats accelerate or retard 
the flow of the sap, and rain incommodes the workmen; 
advantage must therefore be taken of favourable days to have 
the work carried on rapidly. Generally it is performed by 
two men, a grafter and a bandager. Besides these, a workman 
goes on in advance, clearing and preparing the stocks. The 
principal prepares the scions, classifies them, does the number- 
ing, and enters the work in the register of the establishment. 
A skilful grafter can keep two bandager s busy, but it is better 
that he should do the bandaging himself, for two bandager3 
are likely to pass over some of the buds without securing them, 
and in that case of course they are lost. It is also a good 
plan never to leave a row of subjects just budded without 
glancing over them to ascertain that they are all budded and 
properly bandaged. A hundred bud-grafts per hour is the 
average work of a good grafter. Of course with rose-trees, 
apricots, or chestnuts, the scions of which are spiny, or 
angular, or highly-developed, progress is not so rapid as with 



142 



THE ART OF 



apple-trees, peach-trees, or lilacs. Tall standards are not 
so quickly budded as low ones, although in the case of the 
latter, both grafter and bandager have often to stoop con- 
siderably at their work. First-class grafters in our establish- 
ment have reached the number of 250 bud-grafts per hour, 
(and even 300 with the Doucin apple stock planted at intervals 
of a foot) ; but a performance like this is quite unusual, and 
"we may add, hazardous to the ultimate success of the grafts ; 




Budding with a Cross-shaped Incision. (Chestnut.) 
we do not therefore recommend it. It is better to proceed more 
slowly and to act with precaution. We may also observe that 
our nurserymen do not entrust the office of grafter to any but 
steady workmen, who have served a regular apprenticeship as 
bandagers, and who are sufficiently experienced in the work 
of grafting. 

Budding with a Cross-shaped Incision. 
If the buds on the scion shoot should be rather large for 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



143 



the diameter of tlie stock, for example those of the service- 
tree or of tlie chestnut (A), they will not be properly held in 
the incision unless it is made in the form of a cross, which is 
made with two cuts of the knife, instead of the T form : the. 
upper part of the bark belonging to the bud is slipped into 
the upper part of the incision (B), and is there held fast in a 
firm manner, which could not be secured by the ordinary 
process. The bandage is applied, beginning either at the 




Inverted T Biicl&ing. 

middle of the incision (C), and finishing at both ends, or 
beginning at the top, and taking care to close the bark well. 

Budding with a Reversed Incision. ■ 
TVTien the sap of the stock is in excess, as with maples in 
cold districts or with orange-trees in warm ones, there is 
danger of the superabundant fluid smothering the bud. lliis 
is counteracted by making the incision in the bark of the 
stock upside down (J_ instead of T). In the incision (A) the 
insertion of the graft -bud (B) is made from below upwards 



144 



THE ART OP 



(as at C). The bark of the bud (B) is cut with a point at the 
upper part (a) to facilitate its insertion, and the lower part 
is cut square (as at b) to correspond with the horizontal incision 
in the stock : it ?s thus held properly in position. Of course 
it is merely the incision in the stock which is reversed ; the 
bud being always inserted in the usual manner. The bandage 
is applied first at the lower part of the incision aud worked up 
to the upper part, where it is fastened off. If applied in any 
other way, the bud is liable to be displaced. 



This method is sometimes employed when the sap of the 
stock does not flow sufficiently freely for inoculating the bud 
under the bark. When the stock is comparatively small in 
diameter, or has a thick bark difficult to be raised, or when 
the scion- shoot is curved and has the buds crowded closely 
together, it will be best to insert the bud by veneering. The 




D 



Veneer Snield-Bud&ing. 



Veneer Shield-budding. 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



145 



"bud (A) is removed by the ordinary process, or by one more 
primitive. The four sides of the strip of bark connected with 
the bud are first marked out with the grafting-knife; the 
leaf- stalk at the bud is then taken by the base, and by a 
skilful movement of the hand the whole is detached from the 
branch. Should there be any fear of injuring the bud, the 
operation may be facilitated by slipping the end of an ivory 
spatula under the bark. This is preferable to using thread or 
hair, as recommended by ancient authors. The bud (A) is 
placed on the stock (B), where it is intended to be grafted. 
With the point of the grafting-knife, the outline of the strip 
of bark is traced on the stock. The bark within this outline 
is then removed (as at 0), and the bark of the bud put in its 
place. It is then carefully bandaged (as at D) with cotton or 
wool. The metro-greffe might be used here with advantage, 
both in removing the bud and also the bark of the stock. This 
method is intermediate between ordinary shield-budding and 
flute-grafting. By increasing the width of the strip of bark 
attached to the bud, we obtain the annular or ring-shaped 
strip for flute -grafting. 

Double-Budding. 

An operator may be the most skilful of grafters, but no one 
can infallibly warrant the success of an operation. When a 
graft misses there is a year lost and sometimes a stock 
sacrificed. It is well then to double the chances of success 
whenever the supply of buds will permit, and when the stock 
is of sufficient size for this purpose. Two buds (of, a') are 
inserted opposite each other, or, if the stock is very strong, 
three and even four may be used. These buds being inserted 
at the same level, one bandage will suffice for all. As the 
insertion of the bud (a) in the incision (b) has to be repeated 
on the other side of the same stem, care must be taken not to 

L 



146 



THE ART OP 



force the upper part of the incision too much, for fear of 
making a circular rent. As the proper development of a tree 
does not require several grafts, as soon as they have taken, 
one only should be retained and all the others suppressed, 
pinching them at first in order to utilise them in a sup- 
plementary way. However, if it is required to form a fan or 
a double palmette, two opposite shoots, resulting from the 




Double-buddingj 



insertion of two buds, should be retained. Double budding 
is applicable to different methods of shield-budding, whether 
by inoculation or by veneering. Simple or double shield- 
budding may be used with branches which it is desired to 
propagate as cuttings, when the stock succeeds better as a 
cutting than the scion ; or else in the case of a variety which 
does not do well when branch-grafted, but which succeeds 
when shield-budded. This is grafting with shield-budded 
scions. For instance, the varieties of the apricot and peach, 
which succeed with difficulty when branch-grafted, may be 
shield-budded in summer on plum scions (as at 0, 0, C> 



GKAFTING AND BUDDING. 



147 



C, C, C). In the following spring, the plum branch is divided 
(as at B, B) into portions, each bearing engrafted bnds of 
peach or apricot, which are then grafted on a plum stock, 
either by cleft-grafting, or in the English way, or by inlaying. 
The plum scion unites with the plum stock, and by extir- 
pating any plum buds which make their appearance on the 




Result of Double-budding. Shield-budding Plum scions. 



former, none but the inserted buds of peach or apricot 
will be developed upon it. This mixed process is not without 
value when it is required to graft large stocks which are 
xmsuited for shield-budding with kinds which do not take 
well when branch-grafted. 

l2 



I 



143 



THE ART 0? 



Proper Season for Shield-Budding* 
Shield-budding is possible whenever the sap of the stock ia 
flowing, but two distinct periods are most suitable for this opera- 
tion : 1. In spring, when the sap begins to flow, and when the 
immediate growth of the graft is desired. This is grafting 
with a pushing bud. 2. In the course of the summer, and 
when the graft is not required to sprout until the following 
spring. This is grafting with a dormant bud. The second method 
is by far the best, and, moreover, most commonly adopted. 

SJiield-Budding with a Pushing Bud. 
This mode should be practised at the commencement of the 
year's growth, so that the graft may develop itself sufficiently and 
ripen its wood before winter. By this method the cultivator 
hastens the multiplication of rare kinds of plants. By it he 
obtains at once suitable specimens for market, and these will 
also supply him in the course of the summer with scicn- 
b ranches for the late grafting with dormant buds. The 
method, however, should not be abused by too late grafting, 
as the forced growth which results from it may seriously 
affect the stock which has been thus grafted. The scion- 
branches are cut from the parent tree some time before the 
flow of the sap ; they are then buried at the north side of a 
wall their entire length in a trench, and 3 or 4 inches under the 
surface. "When the state of the sap in the stock is such as to 
allow the bark to be easily detached, the scions are taken up, 
and their buds shield-grafted by the ordinary methods. As 
the leaves will have fallen cfr. the absence of a footstalk will 
render the handling of the buds less easy in detaching them. 
The rose-tree, which is readily grafted in this way, furnishes 
very early in the season young scion-branches, which should 
be prepared, stripped of their leaves, and used at once as we 
have before indicated. Let us again repeat that shield-budding 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



149 



with a pushing bud should not be deferred to a late period; 
too many gardeners and amateurs err in this respect with 
their roses. The peach-tree succeeds better with this method 
than with winter branch-grafting; but it does still better 
when shield-budded with a dormant bud. As we shall see 
presently, the stock, when grafted with a pushing bud, is to 
be gradually headed down, commencing to do so a week after 
grafting, in order to promote the growth of the scion. 

Shield-Budding ivith a Dormant Bud. 

A dormant bud does not sproutbef ore the spring which follows 
the time of its insertion. The months of June, July, August, 
and September are the proper times for inoculating a dormant 
bud. The exact moment for operating depends on the state of 
the sap in the stock. The older stocks, whose growth ceases 
early, should be grafted first ; after them the young and 
vigorous ones. Bearing this distinction in mind, tall standards 
should be grafted earlier than low ones ; a stock of the current 
year's growth later than one of former years ; the plum-tree 
and the wild cherry earlier than the Sainte-Lucie and the 
almond tree ; the pear on its own roots and the hawthorn 
sooner than the quince and the apple ; maples and ash trees 
later than chestnuts and lilacs. If it is apprehended that the 
sap of the stock will cease to flow before the scions are suffi- 
ciently ripened, the tops of the latter should be pinched a fort- 
night beforehand, in order to accelerate their ripening, and the 
nearer the time of grafting the shorter are they to be pinched. 
However, if pinched too short and too soon, the latent eyes of 
the scions will shoot and branch before the time of ripening, 
and the scions will consequently be useless. On the other 
hand, the vegetative powers of the stock may be prolonged 
by the aid of waterings and stirring the soil around the roots. 
Thus, retarded in the one subject and accelerated in the other, 



150 



THE AUT OF 



the sap at last comes into something like a condition of har- 
mony or equality in both stock and scion. Stirring np the 
soil around the roots a few days before grafting tends to pro- 
mote the activity of the sap ; repeating the operation the day 
after will serve to maintain the growth and favour the union 
of the graft. It would not be prudent to bud when the sap is 
fcoo abundant, as it would smother the bud. Failure need not 
be feared if the operator waits till the sap has lost somewhat 
of its activity, when the bark no longer detaches itself freely 
from the wood, and the mornings become cool. In shield- 
budding, from the middle of August to the middle of Sep- 
tember, kinds which vegetate to a late period of the season, 
care must be taken to assist the union of the graft by tying 
the branches of the stock together at the time of grafting. As 
soon as the grafting is completed, the ends of these branches 
are cut off for one-third of their length ; the flow of the sap 
will thereby be arrested, and the union of the graft will be the 
result. Subjects of a luxuriant habit of growth should be 
treated in this manner. Two or three weeks after budding, 
the subjects should be gone over, and, where the buds have 
missed, the stocks should be rebudded. The failures are 
easily recognised by their black or wrinkled bark. But, as 
the sap has by this time almost ceased to flow, the last currents 
of it, so to speak, must be sought at the neck of the lateral 
branch, or on the stem under the base of a vigorous branch. 
Certain kinds of roses succeed best with this late budding. 

Treatment after Budding. 

Those stocks which are rich in sap when budded late should 
have the ends of the branches lopped or clipped if they are in 
a shady position, or if the mass of their leafy branches prevents 
a free circulation of air around the graft. If this were done 
with vigorous stocks, budded earlier, there would be danger 



GRAFTING A2sD BUDDING. 151 

of causing them to shoot prematurely, and in their case it will 
be sufficient to tie their branches together, or to bend the 
budded branches and fasten them to the stem of the stock. 
Grafts that are too tightly bandaged must be relieved by 




The young scion tied up to the stump or heel of the stock. 

cutting or untying the bandage. If the union of the graft is 
not complete, the bandages should be renewed, or the old one 
retained after being loosened. It is better to wait until the 
winter is over before removing the bandages from grafts that 



152 



THE ART 0? 



are likely to suffer from the cold. Those stocks that have 
suffered from tightening of the bandages should have some of 
their largest top branches shortened with the secateur or 
the pruning-knife. The heading-down of stocks budded with 
a pushing bud should be commenced a week after budding, and 
the branches should be cut away successively, and also the 
stem to about 4 inches above the graft as soon as the union of 
the parts is ascertained. In the case of subjects budded with 
a dormant bud, the stock is to be amputated as soon as the 
frosts are over, and before vegetation has commenced, by a 
single cutting about 4 inches above the graft. This stump of 
4 inches serves for tying up the young graft, and is to be 
cut away at the end of the summer following (at the place 
indicated by the line B), first operating on those subjects 
which are slow to heal, and those stocks which differ most in 
kind from their grafts. In this work the saw, the ordinary 
pruning-knife, and the stump cutter are used. Stakes or 
props should be continued for a few years. 

Flute-Grafting. — General Directions. 
The name of flute or whistle -grafting has been given 
to this method in consequence of the resemblance which 
exists between the manner in which the bud is detached 
and the means employed in making rustic flutes with 
tubes of bark taken from a branch in full sap. At present this 
mode is not much used in nurseries. Although it has been 
superseded by more expeditious methods, some persons still 
use it in propagating the varieties of the walnut, the chestnut, 
the mulberry, the fig, and the cherry. The season for flute- 
grafting is in spring, when the sap has begun to flow. It can 
also be carried on towards the end of summer, before the new 
generative layers are dried up by the cessation of vegetation. 
There are two principal methods of flute-grafting, in both of 



(xEAITING- axd budding. 



153 



which the scion is prepared in the same manner. The scion (A) 
is a portion of bark of a tubular form, furnished with at least one 
bnd. It is detached from the scion -branch by making, in the 
first place, a circular incision with the grafting-knife about an 
inch above the bnd, and another at the same distance below it. 
These two incisions mark the length of the scion. A longitu- 
dinal incision is then made from one to the other on the side of 
the branch opposite the bnd. The base of the leaf-stalk 
attached to the bnd is then seized between the finger and 
thnmb, and the portion of bark inclnded between the incisions 
dexterously detached. Should there be any apprehension of 
tearing the fibres — commonly called the germ or root — of the 
bud, the bark may be raised with the spatula of the grafting- 
knife. The scion is then applied to the stock in the place of a 
cylinder of bark of the same length, which is removed at the 
same time. The operation is best performed in calm weather, 
in order to avoid injuring the internal layers of the subjects by 
exposure. The practice of trimming the stock beforehand, 
with the view of promoting the union of the graft, is a faulty 
one. It is more rational to graft first, and to head down the 
stock afterwards when the union of the parts is ascertained. 
A stock in a young and herbaceous state is better adapted for 
flute-grafting than one which is old or hardened; and a stock 
which is very large should be grafted on its branches rather 
than on the stem. "When strips of bark are used to fill up any 
vacancies not covered by the scion, it is seldom required to 
apply mastic to the joinings. 

Orel In a ry Flute- G raf ling. 

The scion (A) is applied to a stock (33), which has 
not been previously headed down, in the place of a 
cylinder or pipe of bark of the same length, and whicli 
has been removed in the same way. It is placed so that 



154 



THE AUT OF 



its bud may be exactly underneath a bud on the .stock. This 
bud will attract the sap to the graft, and thereby promote its 
taking. It is then bandaged, and cold mastic applied to any 
exposed parts of the joinings. Should the diameter of the 
scion exceed that of the stock, that is easily remedied by 
cutting off from the scion a longitudinal strip of bark equal in 
width to the difference. On the other hand, should the dimen- 
sions of the tube of the scion not correspond with those of 




Ordinary Flute-Grafting. Flute-Grafting with strips. 

-the stock, the deficiency is made good by leaving on the latter 
a strip of bark of sufficient width to fill up the space not 
covered by the tube of the scion; or, if the bark of the stock 
has been taken off in a complete ring, a strip of bark of 
suitable size can be inlaid on the bare part. 

Flute-Graft in g with Strips. 
The scion having been prepared as in the preceding 
case, the bark of the stock is cut in longitudinal strips 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



155 



(F) attached by their bases. When the scion is quite 
prepared, these are turned down, and the scion is at 
once placed on (at E). The strips of bark are then brought 
up over it (as at Gr) and the whole bound round with a bandage. 
This process permits us to detach the scion without leaving 
the wound on the stock too long open, and also to prepare the 
stock before the scion has had time to flag. These strips also 
serve to cover bare places that occur when the scions are not 
wide enough. We practise a mode of flute-grafting with double 
strips. In this the stock is amputated, and both stock and 
scion are of the same diameter. The bark of both is cut in 
strips and turned back, and the wood that was under the strips 
of either stock or scion is cut away. The scion and stock are 
then placed end to end, and the strips of bark brought back 
over each and bandaged. This method is quite original. 

Treatment after Flute-Grafting. 
As in every kind of grafting, the bandaging must be 
looked after, and not allowed to become too tight, and 
a prop or stake higher than the graft must be afflxed. 
If the head of the stock is overloaded with branches, 
some of them must be cut away. The manner in which 
the stock is finally headed down depends on the nature of the 
graft : if it has been made with a pushing bud, the stock is cut 
away by degrees down to four inches from the graft — not 
commencing to do so, however, until the union of the parts is 
ascertained ; if the grafting has taken place in the course of 
the summer, the heading down of the stock is deferred until 
the following spring, when it is performed by a single cutting 

Complement aey Operations of Grafting. — In describing 
the various modes of grafting, we have briefly indicated the 
most important courses of after treatment to be pursued in 



156 



the art or 



each case. We shall now take a general review of this 
subject. 

Attention io Bandages. 
Care must be taken to watch the bandage, that it 
may not become too tight on the graft. Should it 
have penetrated the bark, in consequence of the increased 
growth of the stock, the graft must be relieved by cutting the 
bandage. One stroke of the grafting-knife across the bandage, 
on the side opposite the bud-graft or the joinings of the bark, 
will suffice. The bandage, thus severed, is allowed to fall of 
itself. In a case of incipient strangulation, the bandage need 
not be cut ; if the graft has been only recently made, and the 
lateness of the season prevents an immediate extension of the 
evil, the cutting of the bandage may be deferred, or it may be 
cut partially ; or, if entirely removed, a fresh one should be 
put in its place. In a case of decided strangulation, the 
bandage should be cut at the top and bottom, then unrolled, 
carefully drawing it out of the swellings which it has caused in 
the bark. The smallest portion of it left behind in these parts 
may prove hurtful to the graft. Should over-tightness occur 
during the growth of the graft, care should be taken to fasten 
the young branches to stakes, in order to avoid ruptures. I 
the union of the graft is not perfect, or if it is likely to be 
injured by the weather, a new bandage should be applied, or 
the old one replaced on the graft. It is better to remove a 
bandage in autumn than in winter, in order that the bark and 
points of union may be gradually hardened off. The bandage 
should be retained until spring on grafts that are likely to 
suffer from the cold, and it should also be retained for a 
longer period on grafts made with fruit-buds. For the first 
few days after grafting, we are likely to find that many 
bandages have become loose. These must be secured afresh ; 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



157 



and, at the same time, any defects where mastic has been 
applied should be made good. This first inspection will also 
be a proper time for replacing grafts that have missed, and 
or removing the paper caps and pads of moss which were 
placed on the grafts to protect them from drought. 

Heading doivn the Stock. 

Plants grafted by cleft-grafting, crown-grafting, or in- 
laying are always amputated beforehand. Trees grafted 
by approach both have the stock headed down and the 
scion separated from the parent tree, with the view of 
concentrating the sap in the stock and the scion when both 
are united. These operations have been fully described at 
page 29. Stocks grafted laterally — shield-budded, veneered, 
side-grafted, or flute-grafted — may be headed down either at 
once or after the winter. If the graft is made with a pushing 
bud — that is, made early enough in the season to allow the scion 
time to shoot well before winter — the heading down of 
the-stock should be commenced a week after grafting by 
cutting off the ends of the principal branches and the extremity 
of the leading shoot. A week after this, they are to be cut 
still shorter, and so on successively in proportion as the scion 
developes itself, till a distance of four inches above the graft 
is reached. A few shoots should be left on the stump to 
attract the sap to the graft. If, on the other hand, the graft 
is made with a dormant bud — that is, if the scion is not 
required to shoot before the following spring — we wait until 
winter is over, and then amputate the stock, at a single 
-cutting, four inches above the graft. When there are grafts 
on several branches, each branch is to be cut in the same way 
as if it were a grafted stem. The stump above the graft is 
often called the "heel." It may be cut shorter than four inches 
if the scion be furnished with doubtful or feeble eyes. 



158 



THE AET OF 



If there are any branches on the heel, they shonld be cnt off, 
except a conple of shoots or buds, -which should be left for the 
purpose of drawing the sap to the graft. It is quite wrong to 
strip it of its bark, as is done by some. If the buds of the 
scion appear doubtful, making another branch-graft above the 
first one will be a wise precaution. 

Disbudding the Graft. 
"When vegetation has commenced, this must be done 
closely. Later on, we must act more carefully. The 
buds or shoots of the stock between the graft and the 
ground must be removed with the pruning-knife or 
pinched off. A few might be retained on feeble stems, or only 
in places which appear weak, and these are to be pinched so 
that they may draw the sap without absorbing it. Those 
shoots that make their appearance on the stump about the 
graft must be rigorously cut away ; above the graft, one or 
two are to be retained to draw the sap, and these are also to 
be pinched. They are to be retained for a longer time in the 
case of those kinds of plants in which the stump dries up 
quickly, such as the j^Iaple and the Cytisus. In such cases it 
will be time enough to remove the stump when the scion is 
able to do without its help. The operation is to be repeated 
as often as any shoots not belonging to the graft make their 
appearance. In the case of thin poor subjects, we should act 
more moderately in the suppression of the shoots, and abstain 
from it altogether when the scion- shoot persists in remaining 
inactive ; but in certain kinds (the rose for instance), if the 
heel is cut off level with a graft which is unusually dormant, 
there would be a chance of forcing the slow growth, or of 
causing fresh shoots to spring from the stock, which, 
might be budded afterwards. This short cutting of the 
stump is a decisive operation. Those stocks which are crown- 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



159 



grafted on a stem previously amputated, should be disbudded 
between the graft and the ground, both on the stem and on 
the grafted branches. Here and there a few small shoots may- 
be left to draw sap to the graft or to weak parts. At all 
seasons, suckers and subterranean shoots, which would, 
impoverish the graft, should be rigorously extirpated. In 
disbudding around the graft, very great care should be taken 
not to touch the buds of the graft, either with the hand or 
with any tool. 

Destruction of Insects. 
"While the process of disbudding is going on, a sharp 
look-out should be kept after insects, which, moreover, 
require attention at all seasons, as they are a perma- 
nent pest. They are to be met with inside of rolled-up 
leaves, in chinks of cuts, under bandages, and on the stakes. 
They chiefly attack the buds of the graft. If they are allowed 
to have their own way, so much the worse for the young graft. 
Eepeated inspections should be made at various hours, no 
matter what the weather may be. These pests are most 
active in spring. Some are most destructive during rain ; 
others in time of great heat ; some in the morning, others in 
the evening, and others, again, at fall noon. Caterpillars, 
larvse of various kinds, aphides, weevils, spiders, ants, snails, 
slugs, flies, butterflies, cockchafers, &c, should be mercilessly 
crushed. The Pear-tree bug, gall-flies, and aphides are 
destroyed by waterings of soap-suds or tobacco-water, or 
by applying insecticide powder; and the woolly bug by 
rubbing the infected parts with oil, or whitewashing them 
with lime. Such preparations as the last-named should be 
applied to the scion before it forms buds, or when it is suffi- 
ciently developed. AVhenthe sap begins to flow, it will be too 
soon or too late. We have before mentioned that the soaking 
stakes, frames, straw-mats, nets, &c, in a solution of 



1-60 



THE ART OF 



sulphate of copper secures them admirably from the attacks 
of vermin. 

Staking the Graft. 
In the case of stocks which have been headed down 
so as to leave a slump, as soon as the shoots of the 





Mode of tying up and securing the 
Graft on a tall Standard. 



Mode of tying up several Grafts 
on the same Stock. 



graft attain the length of 4 inches, they should be fastened 
up to the stump. Later on, a stake or prop must be employed. 
In the case of a young stock which has been crown-grafted, a 
flexible rod (A), fastened to the stem by both ends, may be 
used for tying up the shoots (B, B) of the graft. If there are 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



161 



several scions on the same stem, each of them will require a 
support, such as a lath or a small rod more or less branched 
Subjects grafted on a low stock should be provided with a 
prop of a length suited to the probable development of the 
graft. For example, the Hollyhock, which produces only a 
couple of short branches, has hardly any need of a prop ; 
whereas the E-obinia Decaisneana, although grafted close to 
fche ground, will require a tall prop, as in the first year ifc may 
produce shoots nearly 10 feet long. In nurseries, the laths 
and rods are kept on the grafted stocks for a year at least. 
If the trees are to be sent to a distance, the fastenings of 
these are renewed as soon as the treses are taken up, in order 
to protect the graft when being packed. The illustration on 
p. 151 shows how the shoot from a shield-bud is fastened to 
the stump of the stock. In the case of those where the stump 
is not sufficiently long, a prop is added, (see next page) which 
is first fastened to the neck of the stock and then to the 
shoot of the graft. Those subjects which are in danger of 
coming off at the graft, and which have largely- developed seems 
liable to be swayed about by the wind, will require a prop 
from the first. The young shoots of the graft are tied 
up with rushes. Rods and props are fastened to the 
stock with at least two osiers ; a single osier or several 
fastenings of rushes or straw would not be sufficiently firm 
"When the shoot of the graft becomes woody, it may be tied 
with young osiers, lime-bark, bast-mat, leaves of Typha, or 
damp straw. The tying should be carefully done, without 
squeezing the branch too much, fraying the bark, or bruising 
the leaves. The props should rather be planed round than 
made of flat split wood. Their durability is increased by 
soaking them in a solution of sulphate of copper. They 
should be placed on the north side of the tree, so as not to 
intercept the rays of the sun. A prop attached to a tree with 

M 



162 



THE AET OP 



a tall stem should always be higher than the place of the 
graft. A prop which is too short to support the graft exposes 
it still more to be broken off by the wind, and the tree would 
be better without it ; but it is by far the best course to 




Mode of staking the Graft. 



support both stock and graft against storms by fastening them 
to a prop which will sustain both. Small pads of moss or bark 
should be placed between the prop and the stock under the 
fastenings, to prevent the fraying of the bark in exposed 
positions. When storms occur, double vigilance is needed 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



163 



?and if the grafts are too much swayed about by the wind, 
additional props should be applied, and the longest branches 
trimmed and some of their leaves removed; care should be 
taken that the fastenings of the props do not become too 
tight round the stock, which would both wound it and expose 
it to the chance of ruptures. During the period of growth, 
the direction of the sap should be regulated, if there is occasion 
to do so, by pinching those shoots which push too vigorously 
in proportion to the rest. If the pinching is likely to make 
"them branch, it will be sufficient to cut the leaves partially, 
and to tie up the strong shoots closely, leaving more freedom 
of action to the weak ones. At the same time the useless 
shoots which spring from the swelling of the graft should be 
cut away. 

Suppression of the Heel. 

After one year's growth the heel of the graft should be cut- 
away. If left longer, it will die and infect the stock with 
decay. If it is cut when the sap is on the decline, the wound 
soon heals, and the swelling at the junction of the graft soon 
disappears. However, in the case of a graft of feeble growth, 
there would be no danger in retaining the heel for two years. 
In nurseries, the heel is removed in August and September, 
after the work of shield-budding is over. Those subjects 
whose scions are least allied in kind to their stocks are first 
operated on : for example, when two different species are 
united by grafting, as the pear on the quince, the cherry on 
the Mahaleb, the apricot on the plum, and the peach on the 
almond. The heel is cut in -a slanting direction (as indi- 
cated by the line (B) hi the figure at page 151), beginning 
opposite the base of the scion and ending just above its upper- 
most point of union with the stock. Should the heel be thick 
.and dry, the saw should be used and the cutting smoothed 

M 2 



164 



THE ART OP 



down with the pruning-knife. In ordinary cases the stump- 
cutter, -which is worked with both hands, is most convenient. 
In removing the stump, care should be taken not to bruise the 
graft with the implement employed. A small stump may be 
taken o£l with the secateur, and the cut afterwards smoothed 
down with the pruning-knife, guiding the blade so as not to 
injure the graft. The application of clay or mastic to the 
wound will assist it to heal. Together with removing the heel 
or stump, other provisional grafts on the same stem may be 
cut away, if the shoots of a single graft will furnish the tree 
sufficiently. 




Incisions to reduce the swelling Mode of bringing on its ovm roots a 

of the Graft. Pear-tree grafted on Quince. 

Reduction of the Swelling of the Graff. 
If a prominent swelling (A) happens to rise, at the time when 
the graft begins to grow, to the detriment of the free circula- 
tion of the sap, we endeavour to reduce it by making longi- 
tudinal incisions, in spring, beginning at the upper part of the 
swelling (C), and continuing them down the stock (B). The dis- 
charge of cambium through these openings dilates the genera- 
tive layers, and assists their normal growth. These incisions 
are made with one stroke of the grafting-knife. They should 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



165 



be continued down the entire length of the stock, and renewed 
in the coarse of the season or in the following spring if the 
deformity continnes. 

By a similar process, in order to promote the vigour of the 
tree, we utilise the swelling of the pear when grafted on the 
quince. The pear-tree (D), which is disproportionally larger tnan 
the stock on which it has been grafted,, has become deficient 
in vigour and fertility. As a remedy for this, small longitu- 
dinal incisions are made in the swelling (F) ; good soil is then 
heaped up around it (as at B, B), kept moist by watering, and 
covered with straw, litter, or tan. Instead of soil, river sand 
may be used, as this does not soon become dry, and maintains a 
constant coolness. Before long, rootlets will issue from the 
fissures in the swelling (F) : these will soon become roots, 
and convey a direct supply of nutriment to the tree. The 
pear-tree (D), thus brought upon its own roots, will acquire 
fresh vigour, while the quince-stock (E) will be superseded, 
and finally disappear along with its roots. 

TREES, SHRUBS, AND BUSHES THAT MAY BE 
MULTIPLIED BY GRAFTING. 

It is not sufficient to know how to graft; it is necessary 
also to know what plants are adapted for grafting, the kind of 
stock and the mode of operating suited for each case. These 
will be described in this chapter, which is devoted to an enu- 
meration of the principal trees and shrubs which grow in tha 
climate of France. The methods of grafting are given in the 
order of their relative importance. The mode of reproducing 
the stock is also indicated, and some observations, the result 
of experience, are added. "We say nothing of the dwarf cherry, 
the Deutzias, willows, Alaternus, fig-trees, gooseberries and 
currants, pomegranates, hazels, &c, the varieties of which are 



166 



THE ART OP 



sometimes fancifully intergrafted with each other in order to 
obtain particular forms. The natural way to propagate these 
is by seed, cuttings, or layers. Every year new varieties or 
sub-varieties of woody plants make their appearance. These 
may be grafted by the methods indicated for analogous 
species. 

The Apricot. 

Stock. — St. Julienplum; black damson (from seed); Myro- 
balan plum (from cuttings). In the south of France they use 
as stocks the apricot on its own roots and the almond-tree 
(from seed). In England the Brussels stock is used for this 
purpose, and in Holland the kind called gross-^flaum. Mode of 
Grafting. — Shield-budding (in July and August) ; simple 
English method (in March and April) ; either close to the 
ground or as standards. 

"Remarks. — Scions of medium size, and taken from branches 
well exposed to the air, are to be preferred. The buds at tho 
base which are badly developed should be rejected, and those 
at the top are difficult to be grafted as shield-buds. When 
about to shield-bud the Myrobalan plum, the branches of the 
stock should be tied up together, and, when the graft is made, 
the ends of these branches should be cut off. The bandage 
should be removed in autumn, otherwise not before the frosts 
are past. Aphides and snails should be destroyed. Tie up the 
shoots to props carefully from time to time. Cut oflc the heel 
before winter. As the simple English graft (p. Ill) has 
neither notch nor tongue, the bandage and prop must be 
retained for a considerable time. Cleft -grafting or inlaying 
previously shield-budded branches of the plum on the apricot 
(p. 147) is useful in some cases when the stock is too gross to 
be grafted in the English way. When it is desired to obtain 
a tall standard apricot on a low plum stocky the latter should 



GRAFTING AXD BUDDING. 



167 



be first grafted close to the ground with some variety of plum 
allied to the apricot, such as Eeine- Claude de Bavay, St. 
Catherine, or some vigorous stock which will serve as an 
intermediate stem, in at least two years' time, on which to 
graft the apricot. 

White Beam Tree— Crataegus Azerolus. 

Stock. — White hawthorn (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Shield-budding (in July) ; cleft-grafting or inlaying (March 
and April) ; close to the ground. 

Remarks. — Graft close to the ground to avoid the deformity 
of the stock being of smaller diameter than the graft, and 
also to prevent the growth of shoots on the stock, which 
would impoverish the scion. Eeject all badly-developed buds 
at the base of the scion-shoots, and also those at the top which 
have too great a tendency to flowering. 

Hollyhock, 

Stock. — Single -flowered Hollyhock (from seed or cuttings). 
Mode of Grafting. — Cleft -grafting ; English method ; inlaying ; 
crown-grafting on the neck of the root (in April) ; close to 
the ground. 

Remarks. — The scions having been prepared beforehand 
are to be buried in dry sand, and not very deeply, as they are 
liable to rot. They should also be sheltered from frost. 
Graft close to the ground, or better, under the surface, which 
will prevent suckers springing from the neck of the stock. 
If the stocks are taken up before being grafted they should 
be cut off at the level of the neck (see page 126). 

Almond Tree. 

Stock. — Hard-shelled almond ; plum tree (from seed). Mode 
of Grafting. — Shield-budding (in August) ; cleft-grafting (in 
March) ; close to the ground or as standards. 



163 



THE AET 0? 



Remarks. — Shield-budding close to the ground is to be 
preferred when the stock or branch is a year old ; a month 
before grafting, the branches about the part to be budded 
should be. cut away. The other branches of the young almond 
stock should be tied together at the time of grafting. In the 
plum quarters of the nursery which have been grafted with 
varieties of plums any grafts which have missed may be 
replaced by a variety of almonds, unless it is desired to try 
the original plum graft a second time. The appearance of the 
trees is so different that a mistake cannot be made when the 
time comes for transplanting them. 

Chinese Plum— Amy gdalop sis. 

Stock. — Plum-tree (from seed) and the Myrobalan plum (from 
cuttings). The scion is not so long-lived on the almond-tree. 
Mode of Grafting. — Shield-budding (in summer) ; close to the 
ground or as standards. 

Remarks. — Always graft rather late in the season, using the 
St. Julien plum-tree as a stock for the subjects first grafted, 
and the Myrobalan plum for the later ones. For low standards, 
stocks of small diameter should be selected ; shield-budding 
succeeds well on cuttings struck in the previous spring. If 
the sap is over-abundant, the bud should be inserted in a 
reversed incision, and the branches of the stock trimmed and 
shortened. For grafting on the stem, stocks of medium size 
are to be preferred. A thick stock should be shield-budded on 
its young side -branches. Of these two kinds of ornamental 
plum-trees, the Chinese plum succeeds best when branch- 
grafted, and the Amygdalopsis (also called Prunus triloba and 
P. japonica) when bud-grafted. The young shoots of the graft 
should be pinched as soon as they have grown a foot long ; 
this will cause them to branch, and they will also flower longer 
in consequence. 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



169 



Araucaria. 

Stock. — Araucaria imbricata or the Chilian species (Colymbea 
imbricata) (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — Side-grafting with 
an oblique cleft ; veneering (in February and August, under 
glass) ; close to the ground. 

Remarks. — The genus Araucaria is sub -divided into Co- 
lymbea, Eutacta, and Dammara. Colymbea imbricata and 
the Brazilian species, Eutacta excelsa and E. Cunningharnii, 
make excellent stocks for most kinds of Araucarias. When 
there is a deficiency of stocks, varieties may be multiplied by 
planting their leading shoots as cuttings ; however, as the 
cutting of the leading shoot limits the number of branches 
which will afterwards be produced, and as the success of 
cuttings is not to be depended on so much as that of grafts, 
it is much better in the first instance to plant cuttings of the 
side-branches and, later on, to graft these cuttings with scions 
taken from the upper part of the tree, and which have pushed 
from the axils of the upper whorl of branches in consequence 
of the pruning of the side -branches. 

Arbutus. 

Stock. — Arbutus pyrenaica (from seed). Mode of Grafting. 
— Yeneering (in February and September, under glass) ; close 
to the ground. 

Remarks. — Choose young stocks about two years old, as the 
operation succeeds better when the tissues are tender. Place 
the subjects, when grafted, under a cloche or frame, and 
exclude the air for two months, which will assist the union 
of the grafts. After this harden them off by degrees. 

Hawthorn. 

Stock— White Hawthorn (from seed). Mode of Grafting. 
—Shield-budding (in July) ; cleft-grafting (in March) ; close 
to the ground, and sometimes as standards. 



170 



THE ART OP 



Remarks. — In shield-budding, nse stocks of medium thick- 
ness. The grafts are made near the ground to avoid the 
numerous shoots which spring from the stem of the stock. 
Well- developed stocks maybe used as tall standards for choice 
varieties with spreading or weeping branches. In such cases 
the shoots on the stem of the stock should be carefully 
removed. 

Aucuba. 

Stock. — Aucuba japonica (from cuttings). Mode of Grafting. 
— Veneering, side cleft-grafting in the alburnum, with the 
stock as a cutting (p. 121) ; with both stock and scion as cut- 
tings (p. 122) from October to February, under glass ; close 
to the ground* 

Remarks. — V T hen stocks are scarce or wanting, prepare 
cuttings of Aucuba japonica; at the same time cleft-graft 
them on the crown or side with the variety to be propagated, 
place them under a cloche. The graft becomes united while 
the cutting is forming roots. This shrub being dioecious, all 
the branches of male stocks, with the exception of one, might 
be grafted with female scions, and on female shrubs one male 
branch might be similarly introduced. In this way every 
plant might be ornamented with berries. The Garrya may 
be successfully cleft-grafted or veneered upon the Aucuba. 

Alder. 

Stock. — Alnus glutinosa (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
By approach (p. 42) ; crown-grafting ; cleft -grafting (in. 
March and April) ; close to the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — Grafting with detached scions also succeeds when 
the scions are two years old. The wood of the stock should 
be at least two years old at the place where it is amputated 
when headed down. 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



171 



Azalea. 

Stock. — Common Azalea (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Veneering ; cleft-grafting (from July to September) ; close to 
the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — The grafts should be placed under glass, with 
the air excluded, in the propagating-house, and the cloches 
kept carefully closed for two months — a period which is 
absolutely necessary to the success of the grafts. Young 
plants, which should have been thinly sown, are to be dis- 
budded. They are kept entire for grafting ; if they are very 
slender, the tops should be pinched when grafting. The 
stocks should be potted beforehand ; in an emergency they 
might, however, be potted just before grafting, without any 
risk of failure. Cleft -grafting or inlaying in the open air in 
spring often gives good results. Care should be taken ta 
retain a bud on the stock opposite the graft. 

Colutea. 

Stock. — Common Colutea (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Shield-buddmg (in August) ; English method (in March) ; close 
to the ground. 

Remarks. — In winter, select tolerably weak plants, and set 
them in ordinary soil, a moderate condition of growth being 
most favourable to the union of the graft. Destroy snails, 
which are very fond of this plant. 

Eriobotrya japonica. 

Stock. — Common Quince, or Quince of Angers (from cuttings 
with a heel, or hillock layers). Mode of Grafting. — Cleft- 
grafting (in April) ; close to* the ground. 

Remarks. — A scion taken from a branch of two years 5 ' 
growth is to be preferred to one taken from a branch of the 
current year. If the graft is made in the open air, the leaves 
of the scion should be cut down to the stalk, and the graft 



172 



THE AP.T OP 



protected from the air until it shoots. If grafted under glass, 
the leaves are to be retained, but partially clipped. Graft close 
to the ground. Branch-grafting or budding in the open air 
exposes the young plant too much to the frost. 

Bignonia. 

Stock. — A portion of the root of Bignonia virginica. Mode 
of Grafting. — Cleft -grafting, or inlaying on the root (in April 
and May (see p. 125). 

Remarks. — The pieces of root should be about 4 inches in 
length. When grafted, they should be planted so that they 
may be covered with soil up to the highest bud on the scion. 
An early growth may be promoted by the use of a cloche or 
frame. 

Birch. 

Stock. — The common Birch ( from seed), jlocle of Grafting. — 
Side-grafting with a simple branch (in August) ; by approach 
(during the season of growth) (see p. 41); close to the ground, or 
as standards. 

Remarks. — The Birch may also be propagated by grafting 
under glass. In the open air it sometimes succeeds when 
shield-budded. M. Andre Leroy practises shield-budding with 
Betula laciniata, and cleft -grafting with B. tristis. 

Camellia. 

Stock. — Single-flowered Camellia (from seed or cuttings), 
Ilode of Grafting. — Veneering ; side cleft -grafting (from July 
to September) ; by approach ; ordinary cleft-grafting (in 
April) ; close to the ground. 

Remarks. — Stocks which have been side-grafted, (p. 72) 
veneered, or cleft -grafted, should be placed under cloches or 
frames to which air should not be admitted for five weeks, or until 
the union of the graft has been ascertained. The stock is to be 
headed down later on when the graft has sprouted. The stocks 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



173 



may be raised either from seed or cuttings. In an emergency, 
a cutting may be used for a stock. In winter gardens and 
localities where the Camellia grows in the open air, it may be 
grafted by approach, and even by ordinary cleft -grafting. 

Caragana. 

Stock. — Caragana arborescens (from seed). Mode of Graft- 
ing. — Cleft-grafting ; inlaying (in March and April) ; close to 
the ground or as standards. 

Remarks. — As the stock is very vigorous in comparison with 
the varieties which are grafted upon it, it should be trans- 
planted in the winter which precedes the grafting. Slender- 
branched varieties should be grafted at the height fixed for the 
branching. Attend to the removal of extraneous shoots, and 
destroy snails. 

Cat alp a. 

Stock. — Catalpa japonica (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Cleft-grafting (in April) ; crown-grafting (in May) ; close to 
the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — Select scions the wood of which is fully two 
years old at the base. They should be cut a very short time 
before using them, and placed in dry sand. The Catalpa may 
also be shield-budded in August. 

Ceanotlrus. 

Stock. — Ceanothus americana (from seed). "Mode of Graft- 
ing. — Cleft -grafting on a piece of root (in March and April, if 
grafted in the open air ; in January and February, if under 
glass). 

Remarks. — In selecting portions of root for stocks, be careful 
to preserve the fibrous roots at the end. Clip the leaves of the 
scion through the middle. Place the grafts under cloches or 
frames ; the union of the parts is effected in five or six 
weeks. 



174 



THE ART OP 



Cedar. 

Stock. — Cedrus atlantica or C. Libani (from seed). Mode 
■of Grafting. — Side-veneering; oblique cleffc-grafting (in 
February and April, under glass) ; close to the ground. 

Remarks. — Take the scions from the tops of lateral branches. 
Two months after grafting, the grafts may be uncovered and 
gradually hardened off. The Cedrus atlantica forms a vigorous 
stock on which to graft varieties of itself, or of 0. Deodara or 
C. Libani. 

The Cherry. 

Stock. — The wild cherry ; C. Mahaleb ; or the cherry on its 
own roots (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — Shield-budding 
(in summer) ; flute -grafting ; crown-grafting (in spring) ; cleft- 
grafting ; inlaying (in autumn) ; close to the ground on the 
Mahaleb ; as a standard on the wild cherry. 

Remarks. — The red- fruited wild cherry is better adapted for 
shield-budding than the black-fruited kind. It should be 
grafted as a standard and not close to the ground, and the 
operation should take place when the sap is beginning to 
decline. It may also be cleft-grafted towards the end of 
summer, before the sap disappears. Grafting succeeds best 
on the wild cherry when it is in a position well exposed to the 
air ; for this reason it is planted on the edges of the walks in 
nurseries. The wild cherry may also be grafted in June. It is 
grafted in Belgium with a pushing bud, or crown-grafted, or 
side-grafted with a simple branch. Scions should be selected 
which are half -woody at the base of the fresh shoots, and the 
grafts covered with clay or a paper cap. The Mahaleb or St. 
Lucie cherry grows in dry soil. It should be shield-budded 
in preference to any other way, and close to the ground instead 
of on a tall stem. If the variety to be propagated cannot of 
itself form a sufficient stem, recourse must be had to the 
intermediary process, viz., graft on the Mahaleb, close to the 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



175 



ground, a vigorous variety, such as the Bigarreau or Black- 
heart. When this shall have made a stem in at least two 
years' time from the grafting, it is to be crown-grafted with 
the less vigorous variety. The St. Lucie stock should be of 
medium thickness, and, when a year old, is shield-budded at 
4 inches from the ground. A warm day near the end of the 
budding season should be chosen for the operation. It retains 
its sap sufficiently long to necessitate the trimming and 
shortening of the branches at the time of grafting. 

A fortnight afterwards inspect the bandages, and also see 
if any grafts have missed. Head down the stock after the 
frosts are over. Cut away the heel before the fall of the 
leaves. The weeping and variegated varieties of the Mahaleb 
are grafted on the common Mahaleb at the height which is 
desired for the branches. 

The cherry on its own roots (raised from pips) is vigorous, 
and adapted for various modes of grafting ; however, as a stock 
it is not so much used as the other kinds. 

Sleagnus. 

Stock. — Eleagnus reflexa (from cuttings). Mode of Grafting. 
— Veneering ; oblique side -cleft -grafting (in autumn) ; close 
to the ground. 

Remarks. — The grafts should be placed under cloches or 
frames in the propagating-house. Six weeks afterwards they 
should be uncovered and gradually hardened off. 

Chamseeyparis— Ketinospora— Tirujopsis. 

Stock. — Cupressus Lawsoniana ; Biota or Thuja sinensis; 
Thuja canadensis or occidentalis (from seed). Mode of 
Grafting. — Veneering ; side-grafting with a straight or oblique 
cleft (in February and September) ; cleft-grafting in the fork- 
ings of the branches (in April and May) ; close to the ground 
or as standards. 



176 



THE ART OF 



Remarks. — Veneering and side -grafting should be done 
under glass ; the union of the graft is perfect in about six 
weeks. Cleft-grafting in the forkings of the branches (see p» 
106) is performed in the open air. Sub-varieties are grafted 
on their type. 

Chamcecyparis Boursierii (vulg. Cupressus Lawsoniana), 
C. JSTutkaensis (vulg. Thujopsis borealis), and Biota orientalis 
are used as stocks for trees of similar habit and character. 
The Betinosporas, which are dwarf er shrubs, according to the 
classification of M. Carriere, are to be grafted on the Biota. 
Thujopsis dolobrata and T. lagte-virens, which are also of only 
moderate height in our gardens, should be grafted on the 
Biota, or, better still, on the Thuja. 

Edible Chestnut. 

Stock. — Common chestnut (from seed), llode of Grafting 
— Cleft-grafting ; in the forkings of the branches ; in the Eng- 
lish fashion (in April) ; crown-grafting ; flute-grafting (in 
May) ; close to the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — The chestnut also succeeds when grafted on 
young oak plants which have been sown where they are to 
remain permanently, or which have been freshly transplanted. 
They should be grafted by ordinary cleft-grafting, or in the 
forkings of the branches. When the sap commences to flow, 
they may be branch-grafted on the sides under the bark (see p. 
68.) It is then preferable to graft close to the ground. The 
chestnut de Lyon is also shield-budded on the common 
chestnut. 

The Oak. 

Stock. — Quercus robur pedunculata for the indigenous varie- 
ties ; Quercus Cerris for the American kinds (from seed) ; 
Quercus Ilex for the evergreen varieties. 2\Iode of Grafting. 
— Cleft -grafting ; in the forkings of the branches (see p. 107) % 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



177 



in the English way (in Maxell and April) ; by approach (during 
the season of growth) ; close to the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — Deciduous kinds should be grafted on the 
common Oak. either by cleft-grafting, or in the f orkings of the 
branches, in spring, in the open air, or by side -grafting in 
autumn under glass. Evergreen varieties should be grafted 
on Quercus Ilex or Q. Cerris by cleft-grafting or side-grafting, 
either in July under glass, or in April in the open air. The 
leaves of the scions should be cut off. 

Chaenomeles. 

Stock. — Pyrus or Cydonia japonica (from seed or root- 
cuttings). Mode of Grafting.— Shield-budding (in summer in 
the open air) ; cleft -grafting (in winter under glass); veneer- 
ing ; close to the ground. 

Remarks. — The early vegetation of this shrub indicates an 
early time for grafting. Use for scions those shoots that are 
not too hard ; the grafts will take all the better for doing so. 
Although this is a deciduous subject, it is best to retain a 
couple of leaves on the scion. Cleft-grafting is performed in 
January and February, and the grafts are to be placed under a 
cloche or frame. Although sheltered in this way, it will be 
necessary to apply mastic to the grafts. Veneering is per- 
formed in August, so that the union of the graft may take 
place by the time the sap ceases to flow. Shield-budding in 
the open air is perhaps the best mode of propagating this 
shrub. We have succeeded in this way with C. rosea 
umbiliculata. 

Clematis. 

Stock. — Piece of the root of the blue-flowered clematis. 
Mode of Grafting. — Cleft-grafting on a fragment of root (in 
May). (See page 126.) 

Remarks, — In preparing the fragment of root as a stock, be 

N 



178 



THE AET OP 



careful to preserve the fibrous roots which issue from its 
extremities. The scions should be young shoots of the current 
year. About four leaves may be left upon them. After 
grafting, the subjects are placed under a cloche or frame, with 
the air excluded, and kept there till the union of the grafts is 
proved by the shooting of the scions. They are then gradually 
hardened off, as directed in the chapter on " Grafting under 
Glass." 

The Quince. 

Stock. — Common quince ; quince of Angers (from cuttings 
with a heel or hillock-layers). Mode of Grafting. — Shield- 
budding (in July and August). Cutting- grafting ; cleft -grafting ; 
the English method (in March) ; close to the ground. 

Remarks. — Shield-budding is performed on young stocks, 
and not until the sap begins to decline. Should the stock be 
of vigorous growth, its branches should be tied up as soon as 
the graft is made. When the scion has made a shoot, it should 
be fastened up against the heel or against a prop, as, if left to 
itself, it would most probably break off at the graft. The heel 
should be cut off before the fall of the leaves. In the Dutch 
nurseries, and also in some French ones, we have seen the 
quince grafted on the hawthorn, both close to the ground and 
as half-standards. 

Cornel Tree. 

Stock. — Cornus mas (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — Side- 
branch-grafting (see p. 68) under the bark (in July) ; close to 
the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — For scions use shoots 3 or 4 inches long, having 
at the base wood of two years old; also be careful not to 
graft too late, as the sap of the cornel-tree soon goes to rest. 

Cotoneaster. 

Stock. — White hawthorn (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING-. 



179 



Shield-budding ; side-grafting with a simple branch (in 
summer) ; cleft -grafting ; inlaying (in March and April) ; 
close to the ground. 

Remarks. — Graft very close to the ground — below the surface 
rather than above it. Choose for scions well-ripened branches. 
Disbud rigorously. Cotoneasters grafted as standards do not 
live long. 

Cryptomeria. 

Stools, — Cryptomeria japonica. Mode of Grafting. — Veneer- 
ing; oblique side-cleft -grafting (in February or August, under 
glass). 

Remarks. — For stocks use tolerably young plants which 
have been raised in pots. Two months after grafting begin 
to harden them off. 

Cypress. 

Stock. — Cupressus pyramidalis ; Biota (from seed). Mode of 
Grafting. — "Veneering; side-cleft-grafling (from February to 
September) ; cleft-grafting in the forkings of the branches 
(in April) ; close to the ground or as standards. 

Remarks. — The air must be excluded when the plant is 
veneer-grafted ; the union of the parts is complete at the end 
of two months. In side-grafting the stock may be cleft 
obliquely (see p. 74). Grafting in the forkings of the 
branches (see p. 108) succeeds in the open air ; the operation 
is performed in the place where a branch forks from the 
leading shoot of the previous year. 

Cytisus. 

Stock. — Cytisus alpina (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Shield-budding (in July and August) ; cleft-grafting ; the 
English method ; inlaying (in JMarch and April) ; close to the 
ground or as standards. 

Remarks. — Slender-wooded kinds, such as C. purpurea, 
rosea, alba, carnea, nigra, elcgans, and trifolia seldom succeed 

x 2 



180 



THE ART OF 



in any other way than by cleft-grafting, in consequence of the 
slenderness of the scions. The scion should be grafted at the 
height where it is desired the branches should spring from 
the stock, as these kinds form a branching head without 
growing much higher. Strong-wooded kinds, such as 
0. Adami, binorus, odorans, grandinorus,sessiliflorus, and quer- 
cifolius are propagated by shield-budding as well as by the 
English method, cleft-grafting, and inlaying. The branches of 
these are so vigorous that when grafted close to the ground 
they will rise into tall standards. When the Cytisus is ampu- 
tated for cleft-grafting or inlaying, it is absolutely necessary 
to retain a bud at the top of the stock either opposite to or on 
the same side as the graft, for the purpose of drawing the 
sap to the scion. Also, when disbudding in spring, a few 
shoots should be retained on the heel and pinched down to 
two leaves; these are to be quite cut away when the shoot 
of the graft is strong enough and at the period of the decline 
of the sap. Destroy snails. 

Maple. 

Stock. — Species and type -varieties of the maples to be 
propagated (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — Ordinary shield- 
budding ; shield-budding with a reversed incision ; branch- 
grafting with a heel (in August) ; close to the ground or as 
standards. 

'Remarks. — The very vigorous kinds of maple are shield- 
budded with a reversed incision (see p. 143). The branches 
of the stock should be cut short as soon as it is budded. 
The Acer marmoratum is grafted by shield-budding the 
anticipative branches, or rather by side-grafting with branches 
furnished with a base (see p. 69). This base, which is a 
strip of bark, may be as much as 6 inches long if 
necessary. As the heel of the stock has the disadvantage 
of drying up very quickly, it will be necessary to retain for 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



181 



the first months of growth a few herbaceous branches on this 
heel to draw up the sap ; they should be pinched down to 
three buds, and when the graft has grown strong enough 
they may be suppressed altogether. The varieties of Acer 
palmatum from Japan should be grafted by cleft -grafting 
or veneered on the type (Acer polymorphum), which is multi- 
plied by layers. The operation should be performed under 
glass and the air excluded. 

Gleditschia. 

Stock. — Gleditschia americana (from seed). Mode of 
Grafting. — Crown-grafting (in April) ; close to the ground or 
as standards. 

Remarks. — Select for scions branches whose wood at the base 
is two years old (see p. 79). The scion will consequently be a 
portion of last year's wood in the upper part, and of the pre- 
vious year's growth at the base. The point of junction of the 
different year's growth should be about the middle of the 
scion. 

Ash. 

Stock. — Common ash (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Shield-budding (in July) ; cleft-grafting ; the English method 
in March and April) ; close to the ground or as standards. 

Remarks. — Eeject the buds at the base of the branches ; 
they do not develop readily. After budding, the tops of the 
scion-shoots may be utilised by side-grafting them under the 
bark (see p. 68). When the graft begins to sprout, the stock 
should be closely disbudded, but a few leafy shoots should be 
retained here and there to draw and keep up the flow of the sap. 
Euonymus. 

Stock. — Euonymus europaeus (from seed) for the deciduous 
varieties ; Euonymus japonicus (from cuttings) for the ever- 
green kinds. Mode of Grafting. — Side branch-grafting ; 



182 



THE ART OP 



veneering ; shield-budding (in June and July) ; close to the 
ground or as standards. 

"Remarks. — In winter the evergreen kinds may be cleft- 
grafted, veneered, or inlaid, under glass. If rooted stocks 
are not obtainable, cuttings of branches may be used instead. 
Booted plants may also be taken up and grafted, then trans- 
planted under a frame or cloche, excluding the air; these 
need not be potted. 

Cercis. 

Stock. — Common Cercis (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Ordinary shield-budding, or with the incision reversed (in 
August) ; close to the ground or as standards. 

Remarks. — As soon as the budding is completed, the 
branches of the stock should be tied up together and the 
ends cut off. There would also be no harm in clearing the 
branches moderately of their leaves. Keep the bandage round 
the bud during the winter, to preserve it from the action of 
the frost. 

Broom. 

Stock. — Cytisus alpinus for the white Genista multinora — 
Genista hispanica (from seed), for the other varieties. Mode 
of Grafting. — Cleft-grafting (in March, and April) ; close to 
the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — Select for scions branches of the current year's 
growth, with a heel of two years old. For grafting on the 
Cytisus, choose stocks of medium thickness, and retain a bud 
at the top when amputating them. Destroy snails ; they are 
most frequently found in the neighbourhood of leguminous 
shrubs and plants. 

Juniper. 

Stock. — Virginian Juniper (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Veneering (in February and September). Cleft -grafting in the 



C-EAITIN'G AND BUDDING. 



183 



Workings of branches (in April) (see p. 106) ; close to the 
ground, and as standards. 

'Remarks. — Graft by veneering or oblique side-cleft grafting, 
under a cloche or frame, excluding the air, and using well- 
rooted young plants for stocks. The union of the graft will 
be complete in six or eight weeks. Grafting in the forkings 
of the branches is performed in the open air in spring on the 
leading-shoot of the stock (see page. 

Salisburia. 

Stock. — Salisburia biloba (from seed or cuttings). Mode of 
Grafting. — Cleft -grafting (in March or April, in the open air) ; 
veneering ; side cleft-grafting (in September, under glass) ; 
Close to the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — The Salisburia being a dioecious Conifer, grafting 
affords the means of uniting both sexes on the same stem, 
and causing it to bear fruit. 

"Wistaria. 

Stock. — A portion of the root of Wistaria sinensis. Mode 
of Grafting.. — Cleft-grafting or inlaying on the root (in April 
and May.) 

Remarks. — Select for stocks pieces of root about 4 inches 
long ; graft them by cleft -grafting or inlaying. After grafting, 
plant them under a frame, taking care to cover the grafted 
roots completely. Later on they can be hardened off. Entire 
stocks, grafted at the neck, may also be used with equal 
success. 

Beech. 

Stock. — Common beech (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Cleft-grafting in the forkings of the branch (in March and 
April) (see p. 108) ; side branch-grafting under the bark (in June 
and July) ; close to the ground, or as standards. 



184 



THE ART OF 



Bernards.— The scions inserted under the bark (see p. 68) are 
simple branches of the present year, or better, ramified branches 
two years old. The sloping cut should be very thin towards the 
point, as far as the inner bark. The young wood of the stock 
is better for grafting than that portion which is old ; and, 
moreover, the operation should be performed sufficiently early 
in the season to secure a good flow of sap. Grafting in the fork- 
ings of the branches is described at page 107. Shield-budding 
in July sometimes succeeds with the beech, and, better still, 
grafting by approach in spring. 

Holly. 

Stock. — Common Holly (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Shield-budding (in May and August) ; oblique side cleft - 
grafting (see p. 74) ; veneering (in April and September) ; close 
to the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — Shield-budding is performed in the open air with 
a pushing bud in May, with a dormant bud in August. The 
leaf which accompanies the bud is cut down on its stalk. 
Autumn grafts are made under a cloche, in the greenhouse, or 
under a cool frame. The leaves are left on the scion, and the 
air should be excluded from the grafted stock for about three 
months, to secure the success of the "graft. The operation 
succeeds perfectly well when the stock is potted at the time of 
grafting. 

Yew— Cephalotaxus— Torreya. 

Stock. — Tew, Cephalotaxus, Torreya, according to the species 
to be propagated (from seed or cuttings). Mode of Grafting. 
— Veneering (in February and September, under glass) ; close 
to the ground. 

Remarks. — Stocks may be formed by planting cuttings of 
branches, and these are afterwards to be grafted with young 
shoots which spring from the amputated head of the parent 



GEAPTISG AND BTODING. 



185 



tree in the uppermost whorl of branches. This process is 
employed when certain varieties are to be propagated, and 
when stocks raised from seed are not to be had. The same 
tree then will supply stocks from its lateral branches used as 
cuttings, and scions from the shoots which grow from its 
amputated head. 

Laurel. 

Stock* — The type of the varieties or sub-varieties to be 
propagated (from seed or cuttings). Mode of Grafting. — 
Veneering (in February or the end of July, under glass). 

Remarks. — The varieties of the common laurel, bay-tree, 
rose-laurel (ISTerium Oleander), and laurustinus, of different 
families, being easily multiplied by cuttings, grafting is 
seldom employed except to propagate the different forms of 
the Portugal laurel, which are not so readily raised from 
cuttings. For stocks, young plants with as few branches as 
possible should be selected. The stock should not be headed 
down at the time of grafting ; it will be sufficient to pot it at 
that time. It should be kept under glass for six or eight 
weeks before exposing it to the air. 

Liboeedrus. 

Stock. — Thuja sinensis (from seed). Mode of Grafting.-^ 
Veneering; oblique side cleft -grafting (in February and 
August, under glass). 

Hemarks. — The treatment indicated for the last subject is 
also to be pursued in this case. It frequently happens in 
France that the Libccedrus when grafted is more vigorous 
than when raised from seed. 

Ivy, 

Stock. — Common Ivy (best raised from cuttings). Mode of 
Grafting. — Veneering (in September and October); close to 
the ground* 



186 



THE ART OP 



Remarks. — By choosing for scions the ends of branches 
"which have flowered of the varieties called the Irish ivy and 
Haegneriana, we obtain tree ivies which do not climb. The 
grafted stocks are placed nnder glass, with the air excluded, 
ior about two months, when the union of the parts will be 
completed. 

Lilac. 

Stoclc. — Lilac of Marly (from seed). When grafted on the 
ash or privet it does not live long. Mode of Crafting. — Shield- 
budding with a dormant bud (in July), with a pushing bud 
(in April) ; ordinary inlaying or cleft-grafting (in March), with 
herbaceous branches (in June) ; close to the ground or as a 
standard. 

Remarks. — Choose for stocks young plants raised from seed, 
as they are less likely to send up suckers. Graft at the neck, 
or at different heights on the stem when the plant is vigorous. 
Take every measure to pre rent the growth of suckers, by 
first destroying the latent buds on the roots before planting. 
Should any spring up afterwards, clear away the soil around 
the root, and cut them off at their base. Prepare the scion- 
branches by cutting off the base, which develops imperfectly, 
and the top, which is too much disposed to flower. The 
varieties with slender wood, such as S. Yarin, Sauget, Persica, 
and sinensis carnea, should be crown-grafted on tall standards of 
Lilac of Marly, or some vigorous kind, by the intermediate 
process ; while strong-wooded kinds, such as S. de Trianon, 
Charles X., Gloire de Moulins, carnea, duplex, Tille de Troves, 
Philemon, virginal, &c, may be grafted close to the ground ; 
they soon shoot up and form a stem. The varieties Josikaea 
and Emodi, whose habit is somewhat similar to that of the 
Chionanthus, may succeed on the ash. 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



187 



Magnolia. 

Stock. — ^lagnolia discolor (from seed and layers) for the 
deciduous kinds ; aVTagnolia grandiflora (from seed and some- 
times from layers) for the evergreen kinds. Mode of Grafting. 
— Veneering ; side-cleft-grafting in the alburnum ; inlaying 
on the neck of the root (from July to September, see page 127) ; 
by approach (in April and July) ; close to the ground or as 
standards. 

Remarks. — Side-cleft -grafting with a branch which pene- 
trates to the alburnum, at the neck of a stock not headed 
down, is practised in July and August. The subject grafted 
being placed under a double-lighted frame, the union of the 
graft will be complete in a month. Subjects veneer-grafted 
should be treated in the same way. If grafted later in the 
season they will require to remain a longer time under glass. 
Grafting by approach, in which the union is more tedious, is 
used with vigorous subjects. The severing of the parts 
should not commence until the following spring, and should 
be accomplished by several consecutive cuttings before the 
winter. 

Horse-Chestnut— Pavia. 

Stock. — Horse-chestnut (from seed). Mode of Grafting-. — 
Shield-budding with a cross-like incision (in July, see p. 142) ; 
cleft-grafting (in March) ; flute -grafting ; crown-grafting (in 
April) ; close to the ground or as standards. 

Remarks. — All these modes of grafting should be performed 
early in the season. Reject the buds at the base of the 
scion-branches. The tops of the shoots with a terminal bud 
are suitable for crown-grafting. Tie up the young graft - 
shoots firmly against the heel and the prop or stake, otherwise 
their own weight or the force of the wind may break them 
off. In grafting the Pavia, choose scions more vigorous 
relatively than the stocks. Accelerate the growth of stocka 



188 



*HE AKT OP 



for tall standards by suppressing the rudimentary or stipulary 
buds which accompany the terminal bud of the leading shoot ; 
by doing so, the subsequent lopping of the branches will also 
be simplified. 

Larch. 

Stock. — European or American larch (from seed). Mode 
of Grafting. — Yeneering (in August) ; cleft-grafting ; "side- 
grafting in the alburnum (in April) ; close to the ground or 
as standards. 

Remarks. — Plants veneer-grafted in autumn are placed 
under glass with the air excluded. Cleft -grafting and side- 
grafting are performed in the open air on the leading-shoot, 
when the swelling of the buds announces the first flow of the 
sap. The graft should be covered for some time with a 
paper-cap or cone. The weeping larch may be grafted by 
approach on a tall standard (see p. 51). 

Bird- Cherry —Prunus Padus. 

Stock. — Bird-cherry (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — Shield- 
budding; side-grafting with a branch under the bark (in 
July) ; cleft-grafting (in March) ; close to the ground or as 
standards. 

Remarks. — The ends of the scion branches, which have the 
buds close together, are utilised in summer by employing 
them as simple branches for side-grafting (p. 68), and in spring 
for cleft-grafting. 

Mulberry-tree . 

Stock. — "White mulberry (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Shield-budding (in August) ; flute-grafting (in April) ; close 
to the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — Budding succeeds best on the mulberry in warm 
districts, where it is performed as early as midsummer. 
Budding with a pushing bud (in April) is also successfully 



GRAPTIXG AND BUDDING. 



189 



employed, the scion branches being previously preserved by 
burying them in sand. 

The Medlar. 

Stock. — "White hawthorn (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — ■ 
Shield-budding (in July) ; cleft -grafting (in April) ; close to 
the ground. 

Remarks. — Graft as close to the ground as possible, in order 
to avoid the growth of numerous thorn-branches on the 
stock. Choose those scions whose buds are prominent or well- 
formed. Do not delay too long the heading down of the stock 
after budding. Accelerate the growth of the graft by a 
vigorous disbudding of the stock, especially when the growing 
season begins. Stake or prop constantly. 

!N"egundo. 

Stock. — Xegundo fraxinifolia (from seed). Mode of Grafting. 
— Ordinary shield-budding, or with the incision reversed (in 
the end of August) ; close to the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks.— In choosing scions of the jSTegundo variegahi, 
select vigorous branches which have become somewhat 
white, but which preserve at the same time a green tinge on 
the bark and leaves. Those branches whose leaves are too 
white perish after grafting, and involve the loss of the tree. 
Young stocks are to be preferred. When it is required to 
obtain bushes of 2segundo variegata, small plants are put out 
in a nursery -bed at short distances from each other^ and are 
•shield-budded when a year old. 

The Walnut. 

Stock. — European walnut (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Improved crown-grafting (p. 80) ; flute-grafting (in April and 
May, p. 154) ; oblique side cleft-grafting; ordinary cleft- grafting 
at the neck (seep. 126) ; at the forkings of the branches ; on a 



i 



190 



THE AUT 0? 



terminal bud (see p. 101) ; oblique cleft-grafting (in March 
and April) ; by approach (from April to July) ; close to the 
ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — The scion should be cut as much as possible 
obliquely across the pith, so that it may be exposed on one side 
only of the cutting (see p. 98). A scion, whose base consists of 
wood of two years' growth will be found to answer well, and 
also one furnished with a terminal bud. A stock grafted near 
the ground should always have the soil heaped up around it 
as far as the uppermost bud of the scion. Grafting by ap- 
proach is more suited for fancy varieties of the walnut than 
for trees which are required to furnish serviceable wood- 
jSTever graft early-growing kinds on those of later vegetation. 
The varieties of American walnut may be grafted on their 
type. We have succeeded in cleft-grafting, in the forkings of 
the branches, the European walnut on the American as tall 
standards. In this way we may derive a twofold profit from 
the timber of the stem and the fruit produced by the graft. 

Olive-tree. 

Stock. — Common olive (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Cleft-grafting (in February and March) ; crown-grafting (in 
March and April) ; shield-budding (from May to September); 
close to the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — In the south of Trance young wild olive-trees 
are shield-budded on their lateral branches ; old trees are 
crown-grafted close to the ground, and the soil heaped up 
around the graft. M. F. Sahut, cultivator, of Montpellier, 
recommends veneer shield-budding with strips of bark for the 
restoration of old olive-trees. In this process the chances of 
success are multiplied if an annular incision is made above 
the bucL 



DRAFTING A3TD BIIDDINCr. 



191 



Orange-tree. 

SiocJ:. — Sour orange (Bigaradier) ; citron (from seed). Mode 
of Grafting. — Sliield-bndding with a dormant bnd (from Jnly 
to September) ; with a pushing bnd (from April to Jnne) ; 
veneering ; inlaying : cleft -grafting (in September) ; close to 
the ground, or as standards. 

J. s %rks. — Shield-budding in the open air is only practised 
in warm countries, where the operation is carried on precisely 
as described in our chapter on that method. Double shield- 
budding (see p. 145) is also employed, and in southern 
countries, Italy for example, budding with a reversed 
incision (see p. 143) is in vogue. Branch-grafting by 
inlaying, which is the method used in more temperate 
climes, is performed under glass in September on plants 
oi :~o years old, which have been sown ten or twelve together 
in the same pot. The leaves of the scion are retained entire 
or nearly so. After winter the grafted plants are divided, and 
potted off separately. 

The Elm. 

Stock. — Common small-leaved or large-leaved elm (from 
seed). ITode of Grafting. — Shield-budding (in July) ; cleft- 
grafting (in March and April) ; close to the ground, or as 
standards. 

Remarks. — In taking the bud from the scion-branch, be 
careful not to penetrate the alburnum with the blade of the 
knife, as the stringy wood of the elm does not cut clean. ^lore- 
over, should there come off, attached to the bud, a small portion 
of wood, do not endeavour to remove it. The Planeras do 
well when grafted on the elm.- 

The Peach. 

Stock. — The almond, the plum-tree, the peach (from seed). 
mode of Grafting. — Shield-budding with a dormant bud (in 
July on the plum and in August on the almond) ; with a 



192 



THE ART OP 



pushing bud (in April) ; close to the ground or as stan- 
dards. 

'Remarks. — The best scions are obtained from shoots on 
walls which have not been laid in, or from trees growing in the 
open. Double or triple buds are the best. On gourmand 
branches there are too many buds which develope badly, and 
on slender or twiggy ones too many disposed to flowering. 
"When it is desired to bud early, there may not be any scions 
sufficiently matured, owing to the prolonged vegetation of the 
peach. To provide against this it will be sufficient to pinch 
the ends of the shoots which are to furnish the scions as soon 
as the buds appear. If pinched sooner than this there would 
be too many blind buds at the base, while those at the top 
would be developed. When the interval between the period 
of pinching and that of grafting is not long, the shoots need 
not be pinched so closely. The hard-shelled sweet almond is 
the favourite stock for the peach. In nurseries the almond- 
trees are raised from kernels sown at once in autumn, or kep^ 
in layers of sand through the winter and sown in the following 
spring. The plants are budded when a year old. In June 
and July the stocks are prepared by cutting away the lower 
branches to a distance of six inches from the ground. In 
August they are budded, and the bud is inserted on the north 
side of the stock, where it will be less exposed to vicissitudes o£ 
temperature. This, however, is not absolutely necessary, as the 
peach is often propagated by double budding (see p. 145). As 
the sowing of the kernels in a trench forces the root to bend, 
they should be sown in such a direction that the bent part of 
v i±e root may throw its rootlets towards the north, that is on the 
side on which the bud will be placed. This combination will 
afford peach-trees fit for planting against a wall exposed to 
the sun, as the root will not come into contact with the wall, 
find the cutting of the heel of the graft will not leave a wound 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



193 



exposed to the sun. The heading down of the budded stocks 
is performed after winter, in March. Those stocks whose 
buds have missed are cut off under the graft, in order to be 
budded afresh in the following August, or they need not be so 
Gat, but budded with a pushing bud in April or May, the buds 
being taken from shoots which have been kept buried in sand 
at the north side of a wall. Sometimes the stock is allowed 
to grow to some height, in order to be crown-grafted. 

The species of plum which best suits as a stock for grafting 
the peach is the black damson (which is raised from seed), or 
any other kind allied to the peach. It is budded in July. On 
the Myrobalan plum the peach does not live long. In nur- 
series, where they have either a wild or a cultivated species of 
plum allied to the peach, they use it in the intermediary method. 
They graft it at first on a plum-tree of any kind, then in the 
first August of its growth they bud it with the peach. In a 
case of uncertainty, the chances of success would be doubled 
by inserting an apricot or plum-bud over or opposite the 
peach-bud. When the young shoots shall have reached the 
length of 6 inches, the plum or apricot shoot is pinched, and 
cut away altogether when the heel is removed. In this way, 
should the peach-bud miss, we have the others to fall back 
upon. 

Tail standard peaches are most usually grafted on the top 
of the stem of the almond or plum. In England they use tho 
Brampton plum as an intermediary, and on it graft the peach. 
We have obtained very satisfactory results with the peach- 
plum. In the propagation of rare varieties the peach is 
branch- grafted under glass. In the open air a trial might 
be made of the method oalled mixed grafting, using plum 
branches which have been budded a year before with peach-buds 
(see p. 147). These would be cleft-grafted the following spring. 
The peach on its own roots does not make a vigorous stock, 

o 



l 



194 



THE ART Or 



and is seldom employed for that purpose. Ornamental peacn- 
trees are propagated in the same Tray as those which are 
grown for fruit. 

The Poplar. 

Stock. — White poplar; black poplar; Lombardy poplar; 
aspen, according to the varieties or sub-varieties to be propa- 
gated (from cuttings). Mode of Grafting. — Cleft -grafting (in 
March and April) ; crown-grafting (in April and May) ; close 
to the ground or as standards. 

Remarks. — Subjects newly transplanted may be used as 
stocks, and cuttings may also be employed for the same 
purpose. This observation applies equally to the willow. 
Photinia. 

Stock. — Common quince ; quince of Angers (from cuttings 
with a heel or hillock-layers). Mode of Grafting. — Shield- 
budding in the open air (in August) ; cleft-grafting in the 
open ah- in April ; close to the ground. 

Remarks. — In operating in the open air, the leaves of the 
scion-bud or branch should be removed. In grafting under 
glass they are retained ; in the latter case the union of the 
graft is complete in five or six weeks. Disbud thoroughly in 
the open air, and pinch the young graft -shoots down to a 
foot to make them branch. Grafting under glass is done in 
February and September. 

The Pine. 

Stock. — Select the type of the variety to be propagated, or 
an allied species bearing the same number of leaves in each 
fascicle (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — Veneering; cleft- 
grafting ; close to the ground (in March and September, under 
glass). Terminal cleft-grafting with herbaceous scions (in 
May, in the open air). 

Remarks. — Grafting under glass is done in spring or autumn, 
the air being excluded in the usual way. Terminal herbaceous 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



195 



grafting is performed in the open air both in forests and in 
nurseries (see p. 104). The stocks should be, as much as 
possible, analogous to the varieties to be propagated ; thus the 
pines with five leaves will unite best with P. excelsa and the 
Norwegian pine ; those with two and three leaves do best 
with P. sylvestris, P. austriaca, and P. Laricio ; thick-wooded 
kinds suit the two last-named sorts. The kind best suited to 
the soil should also be selected. In the south of France the 
P. d'Alep and P. pyrenaica make good stocks for certain 
forms of the group of pines with two leaves. In general, 
P. sylvestris, P. austriaca, and P. Laricio will suit the greater 
number of varieties. 

Tree Paeony. 

Stock. — Tree pasony or herbaceous pasony (a portion of the 
root). Mode of Grafting. — On the root, by cleft-grafting and 
inlaying. 

Remarks. — The roots of the herbaceous pasony should only 
be used when there is not a sufficient supply of the roots of 
the tree pasony. Retain two leaflets on each leaf of the scion, 
and place the grafts under a cloche or frame, keeping the air 
excluded for six weeks, after which they are to be placed care- 
fully in the shade for a fortnight, or until they appear to have 
taken well and firmly. 

The Pear. 

Stock. — Pear on its own roots (from seed) ; quince (from 
cuttings with a heel, or hillock-layers ; and sometimes white 
thorn (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — In almost every way 
— by shield-budding ; side-grafting under the bark (in July and 
August) ; cleft-grafting ; English method ; inlaying (in March 
and April) ; crown -grafting (in April and May ; close to the 
ground or as standards, but always close to the ground on 
the quince. 

Remarks. — The pear on its own roots, when used as a stock, 

o2 



196 



TEE ART OF 



maybe budded the same year in which it is planted, or branch- 
grafted at least one year after planting. Trees intended to 
form tall standards may be grafted either close to the ground 
or otherwise. Stout, straight, and vigorous stocks are the 
only ones that can be grafted at some height from the ground, 
A crooked and feeble stock should be grafted close to the 
ground. When the variety to be propagated is a tender one, 
such as Esther Comte, Brandes, Beurre Flon, Seckel, Wredow, 
Van Mons 3 Bonne d'Ezee, Frederic de Wurtemberg, Madame 
Millet, Prevost, &c, we graft, as an intermediary, some hardy 
and vigorous kind, such as Due de Nemours, Beurre 
d'Amanlis, Beurre Hardy, Napoleon Savinien. This, grafted 
close to the ground on the stock, soon rises into a stem, and 
after at least two years' growth, is crown-grafted with the 
kind which it is desired to have as a tall standard. The new 
stock should not be grafted when either too young or too 
weak. As the quince does not always coalesce satisfactorily 
with the pear, care should be taken to facilitate and induce 
their union by the selection of young and healthy plants, and 
the employment of buds furnished with a sufficiently long 
stiTp of bark thoroughly freed from alburnum. 

The quince should be budded close to the ground, and the 
stock should be a young plant. In the nurseries at Orleans 
they cut down the quince when planting it, and the following 
year graft the finest shoot which springs from the trunk ; the 
other shoots are removed after a year's growth, and planted 
as cuttings to form fresh stocks. At Troves we head down 
the plant to one foot when planting it, and bud it in the 
following August. Except in the vicinity of the place which is 
to receive the bud, w e do not remove any other shoots, but keep 
them for cuttings to form fresh stocks at the proper time. 
When the quince is too thick or too old, bud-grafting succeeds 
badly upon it. The stock is headed down after winter. If the 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



197 



graft lias failed, the stock is cut off under it. in order to graft 
again next season, or else it is trimmed up to form an ordinary 
quince-tree. In our nurseries we regraft in spring tliose 
quinces whose buds have failed, by veneering them with 
strips (see p. 86). We use scion-branches which have been 
preserved in sand on the north side of a wall, and we graft 
in April, when the sap begins to flow. 

It would be wise to provide against the failure of the grafts 
by examining them a fortnight after budding ; and, wherever 
they have missed, they should be budded afresh, either on the 
stem or at the heel of one of the lower branches. In a 
nursery quarter which contains several kinds of trees, kinds 
with variegated wood might be grafted on the second 
occasion, as the evergreen Photinias, whose appearance will 
always sufficiently distinguish them from the rest, but it is 
always better to employ the same kinds as those which were 
grafted the first time. ISTow that the plough is beginning to 
be used in nurseries, the precaution should be taken of 
budding the quince-stocks in the direction of the rows, which 
will prevent the young scions from being broken off by 
coming into contact with the plough when breaking up the 
ground the following year. Tie up firmly the young scion 
from the graft on the quince stock, and cut off the heel care- 
fully before the fall of the leaves, pretty early in the season. 

Those kinds of pear which do not answer well when grafted 
directly on the quince, such as Arbre courbe, Beurre 
Bretonneau, B. Spae, B. d'Apremont, Grand Soleil, Marie 
Louise, &c, may be grafted, in the intermediary way, on a 
hardy kind which has itself been previously grafted on the 
quince, such as Bon Chretien d'Ete and de Bruxeiles, Jami- 
nettc, Monseigneur des Hons, Cure, &c. These may be 
grafted in the second year with the tender kinds. In the 
nurseries at Yitry-sur- Seine they employ the variety Cure; 



198 



THE AET OP 



at the establishment of MM. Jamin and Durand, at Bourg- 
la-Keine, they prefer the Jaminette. The same mixed method 
is used to obtain tall standard pears on quince. The vigorous 
kinds, such as Beurre d'Amanlis, B. Hardy, Conseiller de la 
cour, Madame Favre, &c, form stems directly, and serve as 
intermediary tall standard stocks for the other kinds. 

M. Carriere, head nurseryman at the Museum, Paris, has 
shown us, grafted close to the ground on quince stocks, some 
fine specimens of those kinds of pears which generally do 
not take well on the quince. He had, without using an 
intermediary, employed cleft-grafting instead of budding in 
their case. The hawthorn is seldom used as a stock except in 
soils which do not suit the pear on its own roots or the 
quince, and only robust kinds are propagated on it. We have 
thought of grafting the quince on the hawthorn, in order to 
graft it afterwards with a pear scion, and so be enabled to 
obtain pears on quince in arid soils. 

The Apple. 

Stock. — Apple on its own roots (from seed) ; Doucin and 
Paradise (from hillock-layers). Mode of Grafting. — Shield- 
budding (in August) ; crown -grafting (in April and May); 
cleft -grafting ; the English method ; inlaying (in March and 
April) ; close to the ground or as standards (on the Apple on its 
own roots) ; close to the ground only (on the Doucin and 
Paradise stocks). 

Remarks. — The late and tedious vegetation of the apple-tree 
indicates that the time of grafting should be late in the season 
rather than early. The apple, when intended for the larger 
forms, should be grafted on the apple on its own roots. For 
tall standards it may be grafted either close to the ground or 
otherwise. A hardy and promising stock might be worked 
at some height ; a stunted one should be worked close to the 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



199 



ground, and the shoots from the graft will rise and form a stem. 
"When strong stocks are to be grafted in a nursery in a cool or 
shady situation, it will be prudent to take them up and replant 
them a year or two before grafting. "Without this precaution, 
there would be danger that the remission in the flow of the 
sap, brought about by the violento peration of heading-down 
the stock, would occasion disorders and provoke the appearance 
of canker on the stem. Transplanting, seconded by a partial 
pruning of the branches, will prepare the stock for the mutilations 
which accompany grafting. The Doucin and Paradise stocks, 
which are intented to furnish low standards, should be grafted 
close to the ground. Young plants are to be preferred, and 
they should be budded one year after planting. Inspect the 
grafts a fortnight afterwards and replace any that have 
missed. In dry soils, where the sap soon declines, the scion 
branches may not be able to ripen sufficiently ; in that case 
shoots of the previous year should be preserved in a cool cellar 
buried in sand; the undeveloped buds of these are to be 
grafted in the months of May or June when the stocks are in 
sap. An old or hardened stock should be branch-grafted. 
When planting it, the buds should be removed from the roots, 
and at all times the suckers should be extirpated. Ornamental 
Apple-trees are propagated in the same way as those grown 
for fruit. 

The Plum. 

Stock. — Damson and St. Julien (from seed) ; Myrobalan 
(from cuttings). Mode of Grafting. — Shield-budding (in July 
and August) ; cleft- grafting (in March and September) ; in- 
laying ; the English, method (in March) ; close to the ground, 
or as standards. 

Remarks. — Suckers should never be used as stocks in pro- 
pagating the plum. The Myrobalan should be budded rather 



200 



THE ART OP 



late in the season, and its branches should be tied up together 
some time before grafting, and then- tops cut off immediately 
afterwards. It very frequently happens with the damson and 
St. Julien in dry soils, or with old stocks, that the sap ceases 
Sowing in the middle of summer. In that case it will be pru- 
dent to have pinched the scion-branches beforehand, so that 
their buds may be sufficiently matured to be grafted early. 
Should there be an after-How of the sap, those buds which 
have missed can be replaced. In nursery quarters, this re- 
placement is often made with buds of the apricot, peach, or 
almond, instead of the same kind of plum. The stock is not 
headed down till after winter. Young scions grafted close to 
the ground on the Myrobalan stock should be secured to stakes 
as soon as they have grown about 20 inches high. The heel 
of the graft should be removed before the fall of the leaves. 
Plum-trees which are branch-grafted do not suffer so much as 
other kinds from being transplanted at the time of grafting. 
Ordinary cleft-grafting is the most certain. It is performed 
when the sap begins to flow in March, or before its complete 
subsidence in September. In crown-grafting the plum, the 
scion should be cut sufficiently thin beyond the pith as far as 
the inner bark. Tall standard plums are obtained by grafting 
either close to the ground or otherwise. But, with a stunted 
stock, the dwarf bushy kinds, such as the Alirabelle, form a stem 
with difficulty. In such a case a robust and vigorous inter- 
mediary should be employed, such as Imperiale ottomane, 
]\Iitchelson, St. Catherine, Eeine-Claude de Bavay, &c. This 
grafted close to the ground on the stock will, in its turn, be 
grafted as a tall standard with the tender kind in at least two 
years after the first grafting. The stocks which are intended 
for standards should be cut back when one year planted. The 
varieties Eeine-Claude, Mirabelle, and Quetsche are mostly 
propagated by seed, but it is better to graft them, selecting 



GHAITDsG AND BUDDING-. 



201 



good sound scions ; there will then be little cause to fear the 
degeneration of the type. Ornamental plum-trees are propa- 
gated by shield-budding on young stocks, either close to the 
ground or otherwise. (See Amygdalopsis, page 1G8). 

Rhododendron, 

Stocfc. — Ehododendron ponticum (from seed). Mode of 
Grafting. — Veneering ; English saddle-grafting ; ordinary 
cleft- grafting ; side cleft-grafting (in September and October) ; 
by approach (from April to August) ; close to the ground, and 
sometimes as standards. 

Remarks. — Cleft-grafting and inlaying necessitate the 
previous amputation of the stock, and are not so good as the 
other methods. However, if a leafy shoot is retained at the 
top of the stock opposite the graft, good results may be 
obtained. Saddle-grafting is described and illustrated in the 
account of English Grafting (see p. 113). Teneer-grafting 
is the method most frequently used. It is done in July and 
August ; the stock is not headed down previously ; if it is too 
long the top is pinched. After grafting, the plants are placed 
under cloches with the air excluded for five or six weeks, until 
the union of the graft is ascertained; they are then gradually 
hardened oft in the usual manner. Side cleft -grafting is 
equally good. Performed in August under a double-hghted 
frame, the union of the graft is complete in about five weeks. 
In all these methods the leaves of the scion are retained ; the 
longest, however, may be diminished one-third in length. 
The rooting tendency of the rhododendron allows of its 
being grafted on stocks which have been taken up, then 
placed under a cloche, and afterwards planted out in a bed, 
without any necessity of potting it when removed from the 
cloche. It is as certain to succeed as if the stock had been 
potted at the time of grafting. 



202 



THE AET OP 



JEtobinia. 

Stock. — Common robinia (white acacia) (from seed). Mode 
of Grafting. — Cleft-grafting (in April) ; close to the ground or 
otherwise. 

Remarks. — Slender-wooded kinds, such as E. tortuosa> 
rosea, linifolia, Yan-Houtte, &c, should be grafted at the 
projected height of the branches. The vigorous kinds, E. 
Decaisneana, unifolia, pyramidalis, may be grafted close to the 
ground, even when they are intended for tall standards. The 
Eobinia may be taken up and transplanted without injury at 
the time of grafting. In certain localities it succeeds when 
budded. 

The Rose. 

Stock. — Dog-briar (from seed or suckers) ; Manetti (from 
cuttings), E. quatre-saisons. Mode of Grafting. — Shield- 
budding, with a dormant bud (in July and August) ; with a* 
pushing bud (in May and June) ; cleft -grafting ; inlaying (in 
March) ; close to the ground or as standards. 

Remarks. — The rose is chiefly propagated on the dog- 
briar. The stock may either be raised from seed, or the plants- 
may be procured in hedges or woods. Those raised from seed 
are used for low standards, while tall standards are obtained 
both from sowing and also from suckers. They are planted 
either permanently or provisionally in the nursery. If the 
effects of heat are feared, the stems should be covered with 
clay or mud, and the cuts with mastic. The scion-branch is in 
proper condition when in flower or just after flowering ; before 
this time it is not sufficiently woody, and afterwards it will have 
become too hard or the buds will have broken. This observa- 
tion applies more particularly to those kinds that flower con- 
tinuously; the other kinds supply good scions ripened by 
pinching. "When the prickles come off if rubbed by the hand, 
it is a sign that the scion is sufficiently ripened. In the case 



SHAFTING AND BUDDING. 



203 



of varieties which ran much to wood, and have little tendency 
to flower, choose the upper buds of shoots terminated by a 
flower. The future rose-bush will inherit the flowering 
qualities of the scion. Buds that have commenced to break 
may be used, but then the precaution should be taken of 
inoculating a latent bud also on the same stock. In preparing 




Pog-briar budded with Rose-buds. 



the scion-bud, the leaf is to be cut on its stalk, and the 
accompanying stipules removed. The prickles should be cut 
off level with the bark and not plucked or torn off. The 
prickles at the swelling of the buds of roses with bracts should 
be retained. Moss-rose scions need not be completely cleared 
of their prickles ; it will be sufficient to remove those that 



204 



THE ART OF 



would be an obstacle to the insertion of the bud under the 
bark of the stock. The stock when newly planted bears two 
or three branches at the top, the rest having been removed (see 
p. 203). They are budded in the first year as soon as they have 
grown sufficiently thick and woody. When the sap is abating 
and the green tinge of the outer bark at the heel of the branch 
becomes white when cut, no time should be lost, as the sap is 
passing away. It is better not to head down the dog-briar 
before grafting. The bud should be inserted on the branch 
of the dog-briar close to its junction with the stem. It is 
bandaged with two or three woollen threads, and later on in- 
spected to see that the bandages have not become too tight. 
Unskilful operators are known by the number of branches 
which break a week after budding, in consequence of the 
transverse incision of the T having been made too deep. This 
fracture either causes the bud to shoot at once or else kills 
it. To avoid this evil, some English florists merely make a 
longitudinal incision, and do not complete the T by the 
transverse one. This, however, renders the insertion of the 
bud somewhat more difficult. Budding with a dormant bud 
is performed in July and August : with a pushing bud in May 
and June. It is not, however, rare to find early buds which 
do not develope until the following year, and late ones which 
break immediately. "When a dormant bud is employed, the 
branches of the dog-briar are bent and fastened to the stem. 
They may also be raised and fastened over-head like a garland. 
The buds will sometimes break on the bent branches, 
then these branches should be headed down when the 
graft shall have grown at least four inches. If it is 
desired that the bud should remain dormant, the stem 
and roots should be only moc'erately dis-budded and dis- 
branched, so that the sap may not concentrate its strength at 
the top of the stack, and either cause the bud to break or else 



GRArTING AND BUDDING. 



205 



bring on strangulation. If the graft is made with a pushing 
bud, the budded branches should be cut ten inches from the 
bud a week afterwards, and cut back to four inches as soon as 
the young shoots have grown four inches long. Buds and 
shoots must be vigorously removed from the stem and roots 
of the stock. Grafting with a pushing bud should be 
performed early in the season, in order that the shoots of the 
graft may be sufficiently ripened before winter. It may be 




Dog-briar budded on the stem. 

practised in April and May on the branches of the preceding 
year with scions which have been preserved in sand on the 
north side of a wall. The stem also of the stock may be 
budded early in the season under the branches at the top. As 
the stem does not increase in diameter so quickly as a branch, 
the graft should be bandaged very firmly. Here we employ 
cotton or thick woollen thread. Some kinds, such as the Tea 
Eoses, Moss Eoses, Bengal Boses, Souvenir de la Malmaison 
Ernestine de Barante, &c, succeed better when budded in 



206 



THE AILT OP 



August thaii in June. The bandage should be removed in 
September, except in the case of tender kinds, when it should 
be retained until spring. The final cutting back of the 
branches to within two inches of the bud takes place after 
winter, and before the new growth has commenced. At the 
same time the buds of the stock which surround the graft 
should be rubbed off, especially those at its base; those which 
are above it may be retained to draw the sap. The more 
doubtful a bud appears, the shorter should the branch on which 
it is budded be cut ; if it is still alive, its latent condition will 
cease, and it will break vigorousry. If it fails, a fresh shoot of 
the stock must be prepared for the next season's budding. 

Low standards are treated in the same way. They are 
easily budded on the stem, because young stocks are 
employed. The sap does not continue active so long in the 
stem, which is rather against late buddings. However, this 
-may be obviated to a certain extent. For instance, at 
11. Cochet's, at Suines, and in the neighbourhood of Brie- 
Comte-Eobert, where the Rose du Rci is propagated by 
thousands, they plant rather late in the season the dog- 
briars intended for budding, so that the sap is still active when 
the ' scions of the Rose du Roi are well grown and furnished 
with prominent buds, which rarely occurs the first season 
with this variety. 

Branch- grafting, crown-grafting, cleft-grafting, or inlaying 
the dog-briar succeeds in spring on stocks whose bark is 
grey rather than green ; the graft should be covered with a 
paper cone to preserve it from heat and atmospheric vicissi- 
tudes. Portland roses succeed well when cleft -grafted. Cleft- 
grafting in June with herbaceous branches also does well; 
they too should be protected by a paper cone, and the leaves 
should be cut on their stalks. As soon as the young scions 
push, they should be tied up to the heel or a prop made with 



GRAFTING AXD BUDDING. 



207 



twigs (see p. 109). When they have grown 6 inches long 
they should be pinched, and especially if they are very slender 
and drawn, or if there be only one. They will soon become 
t>ushy and will also resist the wind better. This allows us to 
suppress the other shoots which spring from the stem, and 
some of which we might be tempted to utilise in the case of 
a solitary graft. Branches should only be retained for a 
second budding if the first graft appears to be tender, and 
their vitality should be concentrated by a prudent pinching or 
disleafing as soon as they have grown 10 inches long. 

Budding on the Manetti. — The Manetti is propagated by 
cuttings. It is cut back to obtain stocks for standards, and 
these should not be budded for at least two years afterwards. 
"When the stock is budded too young or too thin, the result is 
never satisfactory. For low standards, plants of one year old 
are budded in the August after they are planted. The modes 
of grafting are much the same as those employed in the case 
of the dog-briar; however, the prolonged vegetation of the 
Manetti must be taken into account, so that it may be worked 
earlier with a pushing-bud and later with a dormant one. 
The Manetti, therefore, is a suitable stock for those kinds 
whose scions ripen either early or late in the season. The 
Manetti does not produce suckers like the dog-briar, but 
it emits from beneath the neck a very large number of 
shoots. This may be in some degree remedied by rubbing 
off the eyes at the base of the cutting at the time of its 
preparation, and by extirpating the buds on the roots of 
other stocks at the time of planting. 

Budding on the Quatre-Saisons. — The variety named Qnatre- 
Saisons, or Monthly, is much prized by rose-growers for 
forming low staudards under glass, and especially the new 
varieties offered in trade. Formerly it was the only stock 
employed. Nowadays it is used in conjunction with the 



203 



THE AItT 0? 



Manetti, just as the latter helps out the dog-briar in the open 
air. The stock, potted in autumn, is cleft-grafted under glass 
in spring following, about February. The stock having been 
cut obliquely, the scion is inserted at the bottom or at the top 
of the incision. A bud or shoot should be retained on the 
stock opposite to, or on the same side as, the graft. When 
the union of the graft is ascertained, when the buds of the 
scion swell, and are ready to break, it is gradually exposed to 
the air, and ultimately removed to a cold frame. The young 
branches being sufficiently hardened, and often in a flowering 
condition while it is still spring, the subjects may be removed 
into the open ground. 

Fir. 

8 tod:. — The type of the variety to be propagated, whether 
Abies, Picea, or Tsuga (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Veneering, close to the ground (in February and September, 
under glass) ; herbaceous cleft-grafting in the crown (in May) ; 
cleft-grafting with a terminal bud (in April). 

Remarks. — Grafting under glass is performed on young 
vigorous plants raised in pots. The other two methods aro 
practised in the open air, and if properly done, the tree grafted 
will grow quite as straight as if raised from seed. Grafting 
with a terminal bud is described at page 102. Abies nobilis is 
generally more vigorous when grafted on Abies pectinata than 
when raised from seed. The best stocks for each tribe of the 
firs are — Abies pectinata for the Abies ; Abies picea and 
sapinette for the Piceas ; Abies canadensis for the Tsugas ; 
and Abies Douglasii for the Pseudo-Tsugas. 

Sophora. 

Stoch. — Sophora japonica (from seed). Mode of Grafting.—* 
Shield-budding (in July and August) ; cleft -grafting (in 
April) ; close to the ground, or as standards. 



GRAFTING- AST) BUDDING. 



209 



Remarks — The sopliora comes into growth rather slowly, 
and its bark is so tender that it is not necessary to cut before- 
hand and preserve the scion-branches intended for grafting. 
A fine day should be selected for the operation, as soon as the 
buds begin to swell. The leaf-stalk entirely covers the graft- 
bud and is inserted with it into the stock. Stocks intended 
for budding should have young and vigorous stems. Success, 
however, is so uncertain that in the nurseries of Bollwiller, for 
example, they bud the same stocks at two or three different 
times with an interval of about twenty days between each. 

Rowan-tree, or Mountain Ash. 

Stock. — White-thorn (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Shield-budding (in July) ; cleft-grafting (in March) ; crown- 
grafting (in April) ; close to the ground. 

Remarks. — Reject the buds which grow at the base of the 
scion-branches, as they de^elope badly; and also those at the 
top, as they are not easily worked and are too much disposed 
to flowering. Do not take the scions from cankered subjects, 
especially in the case of the service-tree (Pyrus domestica). 
With large graft-buds the cross-like incision (see p. 142) should 
be employed. Disbud the white-thorn stock vigorously, as 
soon as the graft developes itself. The weeping Mountain-Ash 
is grafted on its type, as a tall standard, either by shield-bud- 
ding or cleft -grafting or crown- grafting. 

Taxodium. 

Stock. — Taxodium distichum (from seed). Mode of Grafting. 
— Cleft -grafting (in April); close to the ground or as 
standards. 

Remarks. — Ordinary cleft-grafting on the headed-down stock 
will be more likely to succeed if practised under glass. The 
treatment in other respects will be the same as for the other 

r 



210 



THE ART OF 



conifers. If the operation is performed in the open air (in 
April) the graft should be covered with mastic, and protected 
with a paper cap. The Taxodium may also be grafted in the 
end of summer. 

Thuja— Biota. 

Stock. — Thuja canadensis or occidentalis ; Biota orientalis or 
Thuja sinensis (from seed), according as the variety to be 
propagated belongs to the genus Thuja or Biota. Mode of 
Grafting. — Veneering, close to the ground (in February and 
September) ; cleft-grafting in the forkings of the branches 
(in April and May) . 

Remarks. — Veneer -grafting is performed under glass, either 
in a house or covered pit, as we have already described. 
Stocks grafted with varieties whose moderate vegetative 
powers do not provoke an extension of the roots, (the Biota 
aurea, for instance) may be grafted and replanted without 
being potted ; it would be unwise, however, to do this in the 
case of vigorous kinds, such as Thuja gigantea, although 
grafted on the same species of stock. If the stock has been 
grafted after being taken up, it will be necessary to pot it 
when removed from under the cloche. Grafting in the 
forkings of the branches is done in the open air ; the scion is 
inserted in the angle which a branch makes with the leading 
shoot (see p. 106). 

Lime-tree. 

Stock. — Dutch Lime-tree (from seed). Mode of Grafting. — 
Shield-budding ; side-grafting with a simple branch (in July 
and August) ; close to the ground, or as standards. 

Remarks. — The stocks should be large enough to receive the 
graft ; but bud-grafting is more certain on a young stock or 
on a young part of a leading shoot. When the bark of a stock 
is too thick, it can be side -grafted under the bark with a 
simple branch (see p. 68). 



GRAFTING- AND BUDDING. 



211 



Privet. 

Stock. — Common Privet; oval-leaved Privet (from seed or 
cuttings). Mode of Grafting. — Cleft-grafting; veneering; 
inlaying (in September and November); shield-budding ; 
side branch-grafting (in July) ; close to the ground or as 
standards. 

'Remarks. — Evergreen kinds should be grafted close to the 
ground on young stocks, either single or grouped in a pot, 
and placed under a cloche with the air excluded. The leaves 
should not be removed from the scion. Deciduous kinds 
succeed either when bud-grafted or branch-grafted under the 
bark. The stocks are to be raised from seed. 

The Vine. 

Stock. — Yine (from cuttings or layers). Mode of Grajting. 
— Cleft-grafting ; in the f orkings of the branches ; cutting- 
grafting (see p. 116) ; layer-grafting (see p. 117) ; on the neck 
of the root (see p. 127) ; the English method in April and 
September) ; by approach (in spring, see p. 53) ; shield- 
budding (in July). 

Remarks. — We have already sufficiently explained all the 
peculiarities connected with each mode of grafting the Yine 
(see pages in index). With the exception of grafting in 
the forkings of the branches and by approach, all the methods 
require the soil to be heaped up around the graft in order to 
facilitate the union. Even when shield-budded it has no 
chance of success, unless the soil is heaped up around the 
part budded. In all cases the^ scions should be well ripened 
and free from disease (see p. 127), and the stock not so old as 
not to be worth grafting. When it is possible to choose the 
scions before-hand on the parent vine, care should be taken to 
prune them and to pinch the tops before the fall of the leaves, 
so that the wood may be properly ripened. Yines are more 



212 



THE AUT OP 



frequently grafted in order to repair deficiencies of shoots 
along the stem than for the purpose of propagation. 

Guelder Rose. 

Stock. — Viburnum Lantana (from seed), llode of Grafting. 
— Veneering (in August and September). 

Remarks. — Select young stocks a year old, and planted in 
pots. Graft close to the ground, below the neck of the root 
rather than above it. The operation is performed under glass. 
Up to the present Viburnum macrocephalum is the only kind 
propagated by grafting. (We have succeeded in cleft -grafting 
it on the Laurustinus very satisfactorily). The other kinds 
are propagated by layering the branches. 

RESTORATION OF TREES BY GRAFTING. 

It often happens that a tree disappoints the expectations 
that were formed of it at the time of its planting. It turns 
out badly ; its branches are irregular and ugly ; its appear- 
ance is not ornamental, or its fruit does not come up to the 
standard we had hoped for. If it is so old and far gone that 
it cannot be preserved, we cut it down and prepare the place 
it occupied for another. But if it is still likely to live, and is 
sound at the base, it is better to renew its vigour by cutting 
the branches and supplying new and good soil to the roots. 
Now a tree may either have an ugly lot of branches or may 
be of a bad kind. Both these faults may be remedied by 
grafting. In the first case we supply new branches, in the 
second a new kind of tree. 

Restoring the Branches of a, Tree. — The irregular branching 
of a tree may be corrected, to some extent at least, by means 
of certain processes of grafting which have been already 
described. We may here advert to the union of the branches 



GRAPTING AND BUDDING. 



213 



of trees tlained in certain forms by approach -grafting, with- 
out any detriment to the well-being of the subjects thus 
treated (see pp. 58, 59, 60, 61). 

Restoration of a Bruised or Cankered Stem (see p. 53). — 
When branches have grown from the base of the tree, they 
are grafted on the stem, by inarching, above the diseased part. 
If the tree has no branches at the base, a young vigorous 
stock should be planted near it, of a kind analogous to the 
tree which is to be restored, or of a kind which will not refuse 
to be grafted on it. This is to be grafted by approach on 
the injured tree, and, when united to it, will supply additional 
sap. 

He^latincj a part of a Trained Form (see p. 54). — Here, 
on a chandelier-palmette, a portion of the figure is wanting 
and cannot be supplied by a neighbouring branch. In this 
case a new stock is planted, which is afterwards grafted to the 
others by approach, and thus supplies the deficiency. Should 
it not be possible or convenient to plant a second stock thus, 
scions may be inserted on the bare places of the stem. When 
the stem is young, buds may be used, but when the stem is 
thick, we must employ branch-grafting, either by (1) veneering 
with strips (see p. 86) ; (2) a simple branch (see p. 68) ; or (3) a 
branch with a heel (see p. 69). By the last method we can 
insert scions twenty inches in length, furnished with twenty 
buds ; but we must be careful to prepare them for this opera- 
tion by disleafing them a week beforehand, and after they are 
grafted, they should be covered with an envelope of mud and 
leaves to protect them from the heat. 

The same object would be attained by grafting by approach 
the branches of the tree itself, or of a neighbouring tree on 
the bare parts. Approach-grafting applied to horizontal 
cordons (see p. 62), and the piecing-graft (see p. 63), which 
unites two subjects distinct from each other, come under the 



214 



THE AUT OP 



same heading. "We need hardly mention that a broken branch 
may be repaired by means of crown-grafting, veneering at the 
end, cleft -grafting, or inlaying, the scions being inserted on 
the stump of the broken branch. 

Furnishing Bare Brandies. — When the principal branches 
are too bare, they may be furnished with shoots in a number 




Incisions under buds to excite their development. 

of ways. First, if there are any rudimentary buds, we excite 
them to develop themselves by making notches in the bark 
about half an inch above them (see Z, p. 86). If the bud is 
visible, it will be sufficient to make small longitudinal inci- 
sions (?', i, above) through the bark under the buds, and 
extending to their swollen base. As the sap flows, the 



GEATTIS'G A2sD BUDDING-. 



215 



incisions become widened and heal (I, I, see p. 214), and the 
buds form branches. The incisions have this advantage over 
the notches that the bark is not cut across nor the alburnum 
exposed, but they do not stimulate a sluggish bud so well. 

When there are no buds to be treated in this way, grafting 
alone will supply the deficiency. Shield-budding would not 
answer on old stems, as the condition of their sap would not 
permit the bark to be raised when the scion-branches were 
sufficiently ripened for budding. On the other hand, herbaceous 
scions may be grafted by approach in spring. If the operation 




The leaf of a Peach-tree pinched to stimulate the buds at its base. 

is postponed till after July, the union of the graft will be less 
certain and the future branch will want solidity. Ordinary 
approach-grafting (see p. 42), and inarching (see p. 44) are 
employed with equally good results. 

Let us take the case of a peach-tree. It is well known 
that the anticipative shoots are not always furnished with 
buds at the base which facilitate the mode of pruning 
necessary for this tree. Pinching the leaves will, to a certain 
-extent, remedy this deficiency. Thus the branch (H) (see 
above) having been inarched (see p. 46) on the branch (G) 



216 



THE ART OF 



in May or June, the bud which was inoculated under the bark 
begins to break some weeks afterwards. This is the time 
to pinch the leaf (F), in the axil of which the bud is situated, 
nearly to the middle. The result will be that the scion 
produced from the bud (I) will be famished with buds at its 
base, and will become a fruiting branch with wood of replace- 
ment at its base. The young leaves of the shoot may be 
similarly pinched, if necessary. 

In the absence of scion-branches for this operation we have 
recourse to side-grafting with a simple branch (see p. 68), 
and to veneering with strips (see p. 86). These two methods 
are of the greatest service in arboriculture and deserve to be 
very generally adopted. 

Restoring a Tree by Grafting a New Species on it. — A tree 
which is vigorous, but of an unsuitable or inferior kind, is 
grafted on the stem and branches with the kind desired. 
Whatever may be the nature of the old subject, the new kind 
will very soon produce its own fruit undeteriorated by any of 
the bad qualities of fruit formerly borne by the stock. In this 
way it is easy to change a cider apple-tree into one which will 
bear dessert fruit, a summer pear-tree into a winter pear-tree, 
a wild plum-tree into an apricot-tree, a barren vine-stock into 
a fruitful one ; and to gather in autumn medlars, quinces, 
and even pears, from the hawthorn which is planted for the 
sake of its May flowers. The white chestnut will thus be 
covered with rosy flowers, the pyramidal poplar will become 
an umbrella, and the stunted fir will yield masts for ships ! 
It is easily seen that this system of substitution by grafting is 
of very extensive application, although at present chiefly used 
in connection with fruit-trees. 

It is asserted that the quality of a fruit-tree is improved 
by grafting it repeatedly and successively on the same tree. It 
would seem as if the swelling of every graft were a filter 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



217 



through which the sap is purified and refined. However, 
pomology is so rich in good fruits, that we generally prefer 
grafting a variety of established reputation to improving the 
inferior ones by these circuitous operations. 

The re-grafting of large trees is not yet well understood. 
It is wrong to trim them down too closely instead of furnishing 
them with a sufficient number of shoots to absorb the supply 
of nourishment elaborated by the roots. The stronger a tree 




Large trees prepared for restoration by grafting. 

is the greater the number of its branches which should be 
grafted, and the greater the number of scions which should 
be inserted on them. The engraving represents three trees, 
tall standards of different dimensions, ready for grafting or 
re-grafting. The number of branches retained is in proportion 
to the strength of each subject. The result will be that each 
will be more speedily furnished with a well-developed fresh 
growth, than if this discrimination were not observed. Should 



218 



THE AUT OF 



there be a deficiency of scions, the branches at the centre and 
top should first be grafted ; the rest may be grafted in summer 
or the following spring on their young shoots, having been 
previously amputated with the others. With thick trunks 
crown-grafting is preferable, as, besides allowing the insertion 
of a greater number of scions, it does not require the stock 
to be cleft. If the cortical layers of the stock are too old 
and wrinkled, we employ oblique cleft -grafting (see p. 97). 

When thick trees are grafted, props should be fastened to 
the stumps, to which the young shoots of the graft are sub- 
sequently to be tied, in order to save them from being broken, 
off by the wind (page 160). The bark of the stock should be 
cleaned and whitewashed, and the soil around the roots re- 
newed. These last operations should be performed in winter 
at the same time when the branches to be grafted are provi- 
sionally amputated. Very frequently the pruning of the 
branches and roots is done a year beforehand, to moderate 
the vigour of the tree, and prepare it to support the fresh graft- 
ings. Low standards are treated in the same way. Subjects 
trained as vases, bushes, fans, cordons, palmettes, or chande- 
liers, pyramids, and columns, grown in the open or against 
walls, are regrafted on the stem and principal branches, suffi- 
ciently high to preserve the outline of the form, but at the 
same time low enough to give the renewed part greater extent. 
Bushes which have been thinned by the suppression of useless 
or too crowded branches should be grafted at the forkings of 
the branches. Yases should be grafted on the branches which 
form the outline of the subject, and at the same height. It is 
also easy, by means of regrafting, to modify the outline or the 
dimensions of the vase. The fan is grafted on its principal 
branches, and the amputation of the branches is calculated, 
so that when shortened they may continue to form the skeleton 
of the fan. 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 



219 



The single or double vertical or oblique cordon may be 
re-grafted as low as possible. The horizontal cordon should 
be grafted at the height of the elbow formed by the unilateral 
or bilateral stem. The horizontal or oblique pahnette, single or 
double, is grafted on each of its branches. When there are 




Restoration of a tree trained as a chandelier. 



many series of branches, about one-third of them is cut away, 
and the stem is also amputated at this height. The branches 
are to be afterwards shortened in graduated lengths, diminish- 
ing from the base of the tree to the top. With a palmetto of 
some width we can with greater certainty maintain the vigour 



220 



TEE ART OF 



of the lower branches by giving the young shoots of the graft 
a vertical direction, so as to transform the ordinary palmetto 
into a chandelier-palmette. The chandelier (p. 219), is grafted 
on its four branches (A,B,C,D). At A the scion crowned with 
its terminal bud, has finished a direct prolongation of the old 
branch. At B and D the scions, bearing two buds, have pro- 
duced two branches. The upper ones have been pinched down, 
and the lower ones form the continuation or renewal of the 
old branches. When we want- to prove or study a variety, it 
is grafted in this way on a tree in bearing. But instead of 
pinching the useless shoots on the stock-branch, they are bent 
down, and an annular incision is made to hasten the produc- 
tion of fruit. The graft at C has missed, and to meet this a 
shoot (e) of the old branch has been retained and trained at 
the time of dis-branching and staking. About August a bud 
of the new variety is to be inserted on this shoot, at the height 
at which it is calculated the next pruning will bring down the 
other branches. A few buds, inserted below it on the shoot, 
will be useful in bearing fruit, while the uppermost bud will 
furnish the shoot for continuing the branch. It is always wise 
to double the chances of success by using several scions; if 
the uppermost one fails we have the others to fall back on. 

When amputating the principal branches, we also prune 
their shoots and ramifications, which are intended to bear 
fruit, so as to obtain new wood. On the shoots which spring 
from them it will be most convenient to graft the new variety 
by the method of budding (see p. 139), or branch-grafting 
under the bark (see p. 68), or with strips (see p. 86). 

When it is required to change the variety on a tree trained 
as a pyramid (see p. 221) we begin by cutting off one-third of 
the height of the tree ; we then cut the main branches (the 
upper ones shorter than the lower ones), so that the stumps 
may present a conical outline. Thus they might be left a foot 



GKAPTLNG- AND BUDDING. 



221 



long at the base of the tree, and four inches long at the top. 
We then graft on the stem and amputated branches. The 
branches of the tree here shown are being shortened in this 
graduated manner 

Crown -grafting answers the best; we have adopted it in 
preference to any other method whenever we have to change 
the variety on our old fruit trees. It is easy to cut the 
inserted part of the scion as far as the inner bark, so that its 




Restoration of a Pyramid-tree, 
union with the stock is the better ensured, and the danger of 
breaking off at the point of junction is diminished. Never- 
theless ordinary cleft -grafting (see p. 92), oblique cleft- 
grafting (see p. 97), and veneering on the crown (seep. 84) 
are not wanting in advantages, and may be employed with 
success by those who prefer to use them. 

TIIE END. 



INDEX. 



A. 



Accessories 

Alder, how to graft the 
Almond 

Approach-grafting ... 

5 , ordinary 

„ by inlaying 

„ by veneering 

„ (English method) 

„ by inarching 

„ propagation by 

from a common parent 

„ to change the variety 

„ to renew the stem 

to restore main branches 
to furnish bare branches 

j, to preserve the form of the t: 

„ in figure-training 

j, in cordon-training 

„ to increase the size of fruit 

Apple, how to graft the 
Apricot j, 
Araucaria 
Arbutus „ 
Ash ,, 
Attention to bandages 
Aucuba, how to graft the 
Azalea „ 



221 



INDEX. 



B. PAGE 

B andages 16 

,, attention to ... ... ... ... ... ... 156 

Beech, how to graft the 183 

Bignonia ,, ... ... ... ... ... ... 172 

Biota „ 210 

Birch „ 172 

Bird-cherry „ 188 

Broom ... ... ... ... ... ... 182 

Bud. grafting or budding w «. ... ... ... ... 133 

Budding-knife ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 11 

Budding (shield), general directions ... ... ... ... 134 

preparation of the scion ... ... ... ... 135 

„ removing the bud ... ... ... ... ... 137 

,, insertion of the bud ... ... ... ... ... 138 

,, bandaging the bud ... ... ... ... ... 139 

in nurseries ... ... ... ... ... ... Ill 

,, with a cross. shaped incision ... ... ... ... 112 

with a reversed incision ... ... ... ... ... 113 

by veneering ... ... ... ... ... ... 114 

„ double ... 146 

,, proper seasons for .. . ... ... ... ... ... 148 

,, with a pushing bud ... ... ... ... ... IIS 

„ with a dormant bud ... ... ... ... ... 149 

treatment after ... ... ... ... ... ... 150 

Budding (flute), general directions ... ... ... ... 152 

Bur-reed for ligatures ... ... ... ... ... ... 18 

C. 

Camellia, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... 172 

Caragana ,, ... ... ... ... ... ... 173 

Catalpa ,, ... ... ... ... ... ... 173 

Ceanothus ,, ... ... ... ... ... ... 173 

Cedar ,, ... ... ... ... ... ... 174 

Cercis „ 182 

Chama3cyparis ,, ... ... ... ... ... ... 175 

Chsenomeles „ ... ... ... ... ... ... 177 

Chestnut, edible ... ... ... ... ... ... 176 

Chestnut, horse ,, ... ... ... ... ... ... 187 

Cherry ,, ... ... ... ... ... ... 174 

Cephalotaxus ... ... ... ... ... ... 184 

Chinese Plum ,, 168 

Clay, grafting ... ... ... ... ... ... 20 

Cleft-grafting, general directions 90 

„ ordinary, with a single scion 92 



INDEX. 



225 



PAGE 

Cleft-grafting with two scions 94 

„ with an inserted bud ... ... ... ... 95 

„ oblique 97 

proper seasons for ... ... ... ... 98 

„ terminal ... ... ... ... ... ... 100 

„ in forkings ... ... ... ... ... ... 105 

„ treatment after ... ... ... ... ... 108 

Clematis, how to graft the 177 

Cloche, grafting under the ... ... ... ... ... 33 

Cold mastic 21 

Colutea, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... ... 171 

Combined grafting-knife ... ... ... ... ... ... 13 

Complementary operations of grafting ... ... ... ... 155 

Conditions of success in grafting ... ... ... ... ... 3 

Cornel-tree, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... 178 

Cotoneaster „ 178 

Crown-grafting, general directions ... ... ... ... 75 

„ ordinary ... ... ... ... ... ... 77 

„ improved ... ... ... ... ... ... 79 

,, treatment after ... ... ... ... ... 81 

Cryptomeria, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... 179 

Cutting down the stem ... ... ... ... ... ... 28 

Cuttings for stocks ... ... ... ... ... ... 25 

Cutting-grafting ... ... ... ... ... ... 115 

„ with a cutting for the scion ... ... ... 115 

„ on a low stem ... ... ... ... ... 116 

„ with layers ... ... ... ... ... 117 

„ on a tall stock ... ... ... ... ... 120 

„ with a cutting for the stock 120 

with two cuttings ... ... ... ... 122 

Cypress, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... ... 179 

Cytisus „ 179 

D. 

Definition and aim of grafting ... ... ... ... ... 1 

Destruction of insects ... ... ... ... ... ... 159 

Detached scions, grafting with ... ... ... ... ... 65 

Disbudding the graft ... ... ... ... ... ... 158 

E. 

Eleagnus, how to graft the l^ 5 

Elm „ 191 

Q 



226 



INDEX. 



PAGE 



English grafting, general directions 110 

H simple ... ... ... ... ... ... 110 

n (tongue-grafting) ... Ill 

„ (saddle-grafting) 113 

„ whip-grafting 112 

„ treatment after ... ... ... ... 114 

Eriobotrya, how to graft the 171 

Euonymus ... ... ... ... ... 181 

F. 

Fir, how to graft the 20S 

Flute-grafting, general directions ... ... ... ... 152 

„ ordinary ... ... ... ... ... ... 153 

,, with strips ... ... ... ... ... ... 154 

,, treatment after ... ... ... ... ... 155 

Fork-grafting of Conifers ... ... ... ... ... ... 105 

,, of the Beech ... ... ... ... ... 107 

„ of the Vine 107 

Frames, grafting in ... ... ... ... ... ... 3i 

G. 

Glass, grafting under ... ... ... ... ... ... 32 

Gleditschia, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... 181 

Grafting, methods of ... ... ... ... ... ... 38 

Grafting by approach ... 40 

„ cleft 90 

„ under the cloche 33 

„ crown ... ... ... ... ... ... 75 

„ English methods of ... ... ... ... ... 110 

„ flute .... ... 152 

„ fork ... ... ... ... ... ... 105 

„ in frames ... ... ... ... ... ... 34 

„ in a house ... ... ... ... ... ... 35 

mixed ... ... ... ... ... ... 115 

„ root 123 

saddle ... ... ... ... ... ... 113 

„ side ... ... ... ... ... ... 67 

,, splice ... ... ... ... ... ... 110 

„ tongue ... ... ... ... ... ... Ill 

veneer ... ... ... ... ... ... 82 

„ whip 112 

„ by inlaying 87 

3 , with fruit-buds ... ... ... ... ... ... 129 

„ with a fruiting- spur 131 

„ with detached scions ... ... ... ... ... 65 

„ degr&ision ... ... 81 



INDEX. 



227 



PAGE 

Grafting chisel ••• 

clay 

„ gouge 

knife 

,, wax 

Grafted Pear-tree brought on its own roots 
Guelder Kose, how to graft the 

n. 

Hawthorn, how to graft the 
Heading down the stock 
Heel, suppression of the 
Hillock-layering 
Holly, how to graft the 

I. 



Implements and appliances for grafting ... ... ... ... 8 

Inarching with an eye ... ... ... ... ... ... 45 

„ a branch ... ... ... ... ... ... 45 

Inlaying ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 87 

,, crown-grafting by ... ... ... ... ... 89 

„ side-grafting by ... ... ... ... ... ... 90 

j, treatment after ... ... ... ... ... 90 

Insects, destruction of ... ... ... ... ... ... 159 

Intimate union of stock and scion ... ... ... ... 6 

Ivy, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... ... 185 

J. 

Juniper, how to graft the 1S2 

K. 

Keeping the tools ... 15 

L. 

Larch, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... ... IS8 

Laurel ,, ... ... ... ... ... ... 185 

Layering ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 24 

Libocedrus, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... 185 

Ligatures ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 16 

Lilac, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... ... 186 

Lime „ 210 



Q2 



157 
163 
24 
184 



228 



INDEX. 



M. PAGE 

Magnolia, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... 1ST 

Maple „ 180 

Mastic, warm ... ... ... ... ... ... 20 

„ cold 21 

Medlar, how to graft the ... 189 

Metro-greffe ... ... ... ... ... ... li 

Mixed grafting ... ... ... ... ... ... 115 

Mulberry, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... 1SS 

Mutual vigour of stock and scion ... ... ... .., 5 

N*. 

Negundo, how to graft the 1S9 

Nursery ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 26 



0. 

... 176 

o 

... ... ... ... 190 

20 

191 

23 

P. 



Pavia, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... ... 1S7 

Peach „ 191 

Pear „ 195 

Photinia „ 194 

Pine „ 194 

Plum „ 199 

Poplar „ 194 

Privet „ - 211 

Propagating-house ... ... ... ... ... ... 35 

Pruning-knife ... ... ... ... ... ... 10 

0- 

Quince, how to graft the ITS 

E. 

Reduction of the swelling of the graft ... ... 164 

Heed Mace for ligatures ... ... ... ... ... ... IS 



Oak, how to graft the 
Object of grafting 
Olive, how to graft the 
Onguent de St. Fiacre 
Orange, how to graft the 
Osiers for tying up scions, 



INDEX. 



229 



PAGE 

Retinospora, how to graft the 
Rhododendron 
Robinia ,, 
Root-grafting 

„ by approach 

„ by veneering 

„ by the English method 

„ on a fragment of a root 

„ on the neck of the root 

„ of the Vine 
Rose, how to bud the 
Rowan-tree, how to graft the 
Rushes for tying up scions, &c. 

S. 



Saddle-grafting ... ... ... ... ... ... 113 

Salisburia, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... 1S3 

Saw " 9 

Season for grafting ... ... ,.. ... ... ... 7 

Secateur ... ... ... ... ... ... 8 

Scion, selection of the ... ... ... ... ... ... 31 

detachment of the ... ... ... ... ... ... 4S 

Side -grafting, under the bark ... ... ... ... ... 67 

,, with a simple branch ... ... ... ... 67 

based branch ... ... ... ... 69 

„ treatment after ... ... ... ... ... 70 

„ in the alburnum ... ... ... ... ... 71 

„ with a vertical cleft ... ... ... ... 73 

with an oblique cleft ... ... ... ... 73 

„ treatment after ... ... ... ... ... 74* 

Sophora. how to graft the 20S 

Sowing ... ... ... ... ... ... 23 

Splice-grafting ... ... ... ... ... ... 110 

Staking the graft ... ... ... ... ... ... 160 

Stocks and scions ... ... ... ... ..." ... 23 

Stock, preparation of the ... ... ... ... ... ... 29 

heading down the ... ... ... ... ... ... 157 

,, trimming the young ... ... ... ... 2S 

,, planting the ... ... ... ... ... ... 27 

Suppression of the heel 163 

T. 

Taxodium, how to graft the 209 



201 
202 
123 
123 
124 
124 
125 
126 
127 
202 
209 
23 



230 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Terminal woody grafting ... ... ... ... ... 100 

„ grafting of the Walnut ... ... ... ... 107 

„ „ Pine 102 

„ herbaceous grafting 104 

Thuja, how to graft the 210 

Thujopsis „ ... ... ... ... ... ... 175 

Tools, keeping the ... ... ... ... ... ... 15 

Torreya, how to graft the ... ... ... ... ... ... 181 

Transplanting ... ... ... ... ... ... 26 

Trees and shrubs that may be multiplied by grafting ... ... 165 

V. 

Veneer- grafting, general directions 82 

„ ordinary ... ... ... ... ... 82 

„ by approach ... ... ... ... ... 43 

„ crown-grafting ... ... ... ... ... 84 

with strips ... ... ... ... ... 85 

treatment after ... ... ... ... ... 86 

Vine, how to graft the 211 

W. 

Walnut, how to graft the 189 

Wax, grafting ... ... ... ... ... ... 20 

Whip. grafting ... ... ... ... ... ... 112 

White Beam-tree, how to graft the 167 

Wistaria „ , 1S3 

f. 

Yew, how to graft the 184 



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